What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Bit the bullet and got a set of 265/75/16 Falken Wildpeaks put on and yanked the mudflaps. Looks so much better than the 245/70s did.

 

Damn that looks sharp!

I love my Cooper ST Maxx tires, but I'm kinda tempted to try the Wildpeaks out next time. Keep us posted on how you like them.

 

I appreciate it! I will for sure. Always ran BFGs in the past so these have a lot to live up to.

 

Just ordered SPC UCA's. They might make it in time for me to tackle this weekend.

When I go in for an alignment is there any feedback I should give them ahead of time? It looks like getting enough caster is the main concern.?

Also, for the coilovers it looks like most recommend using a small jack to raise the lower control arm. Any other tips you guys can send my way would be appreciated.

 

Drove the truck yesterday - auto lock/unlock confirmed!

 

It should go pretty easy if you remove the old upper control arm first. Once the balljoint is separated at the top you'll have plenty of movement for the coilover. Reattaching the ball joint to the new SPC arms should be your last step.

 

When you say auto unlock...what do you mean? It doesn't unlock when you get near it like my 2017 Tacoma did, right? Or does it?

 

@FirstGenVol disconnect the swaybar on both ends by taking the nut off the link where the bolt passes through the swaybar. When you go to reconnect it your life will be easier if the truck is on the ground.

On the coilovers the lower mount might have a spacer on each side. If they do, the short one goes towards the back of the truck and long one towards the front. If your coilovers have bushings then they can go either way.

Get a good bungee cord or two so that when you remove the old coilover and unbolt the upper ball joint, you can use the bungee to keep the spindle from flipping around.

Getting the old ball joint out will be a pain, mostly because it's a tight space to work in. Other than that it should be pretty easy. Good luck.

 

I recommend you replace your tie rod ends . If the joints are weak this will contribute to your alignment issues. All the joints on your suspension play a factor with alignment. In any case you want to make sure to inspect your vehicle before they do otherwise they may sell you on stuff you don't need

 

Couldn't sleep this morning so I started breaking stuff.

 

I'll have to look at this. I don't remember seeing much hardware in the box with the Icon's. I thought it was just a bolt and a nut for the lower mount. I've heard it's best to reverse that bolt when installing so that it's easier to remove the next time you have to pull your coilover.

 

Yes, it's just a nut and bolt. If you look close at the lower eye you'll see a little tube that the bolt goes through. That's really 2 spacers and they're stuck in there good. The longer of the two should be aimed to the front of the truck.

 

There are some good YouTube videos for this kind of work. Good luck!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S2unFVNRry8&t=575s

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=blodlvjz1ks

 

Well the visors came in and the overhead.. overhead is from an 03 so color is slightly off but not noticeable unless you hold it right up to the visors. Need to run the new headliner harness and cut the headliner for the new editions.. should be nice with extra light and a good spot to store my spare flash light and knife (still need to get new sun visors. But the secondary’s bolted right in)

 

Picked up a slightly used recliner from my uncle.

 

No, not like that. It looks when you start the engine & it unlocks when you turn off the ignition.
Although auto lock/unlock does not speak to remote start in my case.

 

My 03 does that.

 

@Outbound ,

I think you should convert your white DC like this guy...

 

LOL....wood for the win! I'd love to have something like this for my Tundra...if someone ever rear-ends me (or a tree falls on my bed) and the frame is still good but the Truck is totaled by insurance because of age, I will be buying it back from the insurance company and using the insurance money to throw one of these on...a boy can dream.



https://www.mainlineoverland.com/pages/norweld-aluminium-tray

 

I like this bed very much.

 

Me too...it's the $7700-$11700 price range that I don't like very much...

 

Yeah. No.

 

Nah. I don't care for flat decks. Lol

 

On stock ribs.

 

your frame is cleaner than my frame that's only 4 months old. gotta love MN salt.

 

Grease rub it with Moly Lithium. 2 jars will do it. For the hard to reach areas, plunge down into the boxed frame area with a flexible stick and sponge loaded with grease.

 

So I'm assuming if you were running those 285/75/16s for 17 years, you were running at least a small lift that long as well...? How long did your OEM LBJs last (or how long did they last after the recall if yours was part of the LBJ recall) with that lift and how much if any offroading did you do in that time?

 

yep. I plan to fluid film the entire thing this summer.

 

Who has bled the brakes on their 1st gen? @bmf4069 was it you that had trouble after doing this? I remember someone had to take theirs to the dealership.

I'm trying to determine if I should do this myself or pay someone to do it. My brakes only have 20K miles on them. I'm not sure if I should do this now or wait until I upgrade to the Power Stop package.

 

I've done it. I've done it using the old "somebody pump the pedal and hold down while I open the bleeder" technique, and the one man pressure bleeder technique. I wanted to try the vacuum technique but didn't have the right adapter. I would like to try the gravity technique but don't have the space.