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Low on the left

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by jakbakcrak, May 5, 2019.

  1. May 5, 2019 at 3:55 PM
    #1
    jakbakcrak

    jakbakcrak [OP] New Member

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    Hi gang. Hit an uneven concrete joint in the highway while driving. Felt a big bang which actually startled me and made me say, "felt like something busted", from the left front. Now the drivers left front is lower than the right and I think the tire is rubbing into the wheel well when going over bumps. Could that be a spring or shock...? Any suggestions welcomed...haven't crawled under it yet...thanks !! Would like to have an idea before taking it to a mechanic..
     
  2. May 5, 2019 at 3:57 PM
    #2
    landphil

    landphil Fish are food, not friends!

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    Have at look at the bottom of the shock and at the coil spring. Take pics and post if you can.

    Are you running a spacer lift or any sort of lift?
     
    15whtrd likes this.
  3. May 5, 2019 at 4:06 PM
    #3
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    Might be a shock blow out. Take a look and some pics and post up.
     
  4. May 5, 2019 at 4:43 PM
    #4
    jakbakcrak

    jakbakcrak [OP] New Member

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    Thanks, I shall...!
     
  5. May 5, 2019 at 6:12 PM
    #5
    jakbakcrak

    jakbakcrak [OP] New Member

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    I am totally stock, no spacers or lifts and original shocks and springs. Bro says it could be a bushing and shocks generally don't cause the truck to shift like that ? Haven't been able to get a pic yet. Shocks are old.
     
  6. May 5, 2019 at 6:29 PM
    #6
    landphil

    landphil Fish are food, not friends!

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    Maybe we’re splitting hairs, but they are coil-over shocks. I know, everyone is lazy or cool and calls them coil-overs.

    When the bottom rod of the shock goes on vacation up inside the shock, then the corner of the truck drops.

    [​IMG]

    This one likely happened thanks to a spacer lift and no bumpstop spacers since it’s not rusted out, but heavy rusting of the shock can / will do the same in time.

    Or OP has a broken coil.
     
  7. May 5, 2019 at 11:39 PM
    #7
    SoCalPaul

    SoCalPaul New Member

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    Front Bilstein 6112 shocks & Bilstein springs. Rear Bilstein 5160 remote Reservoir shocks, Wheeler’s Off-road add-a-leafs. LED lighting. Pioneer Avic 7200NEX Nav Head unit. Borla cat back exhaust.
    If you have original shocks, your bushings will definitely be bad and your shocks are probably bad too. But pics are worth 1,000 words. Post up some clear shots of the shock & spring area & we can likely tell you the issue.
     
  8. May 6, 2019 at 4:01 AM
    #8
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    The broken coil or lower coil perch would be my best guesses.

    1st gen trucks have a different shock design so what you pictured can't happen since the lower eye is directly welded to the shock body.
    [​IMG]
     
  9. May 6, 2019 at 7:58 AM
    #9
    landphil

    landphil Fish are food, not friends!

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    They can still collapse when rusted out. Happened to my friend with his 2000 Tundra while moving across the country towing a large enclosed trailer. He hit a pothole slowing down for a stoplight, and boom.

    Compared to all the other potholes he did / would hit on that trip at highway speed, he had someone looking out for him.
     
    15whtrd likes this.
  10. May 6, 2019 at 1:22 PM
    #10
    jakbakcrak

    jakbakcrak [OP] New Member

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  11. May 6, 2019 at 1:22 PM
    #11
    jakbakcrak

    jakbakcrak [OP] New Member

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    Here is what I have relative to a pic...
     
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  12. May 6, 2019 at 1:24 PM
    #12
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    Yup shock is borked.

    Bottom eye snapped right off.
     
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  13. May 6, 2019 at 1:27 PM
    #13
    jakbakcrak

    jakbakcrak [OP] New Member

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    Sooo, when I take it to the mechanic, what kind of a fix am I looking at, as I know little about suspension. Just don't want to get borked..!!
     
  14. May 6, 2019 at 1:29 PM
    #14
    TX-TRD1stGEN

    TX-TRD1stGEN Privileged

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    Need to swap the shock. Prob should do both sides.
     
  15. May 6, 2019 at 1:30 PM
    #15
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    Both front shocks, probably should do upper mounts too. Have them check the ball joints as well. Figure $500 probably.
     
  16. May 6, 2019 at 1:31 PM
    #16
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    White 2015 Tundra DC SR5 TRD 4x4 5.7L, White 2003 Sequoia 2WD
    TRD Pro suspension, +2 Coachbuilder shackles, 2015 TRD Pro headlights, 20% ceramic tinted windows, clear ceramic tinted front windshield, aFe drop in pro s dry air filter, TRD airflow accelerator, TRD oil fill cap, TRD 18 psi radiator cap, BDX Bullydog tuner, Weathertech floor mats front and rear, rear seat fold down mod, DNA hard trifold tonneau cover, Linex with uv protection, TRD rear swaybar, TRD center caps, TRD Pro grille insert with color matching surround and bulge, TRD PRO headlights, aluminum oil filter canister, Real truck tailgate seal, Pop-n-lock tailgate lock actuator, rear diff breather relocate, RCI front skid plate. 275/70 R18 BFG KO2s
    Man everything is pretty rusty under there. You’re ready for a whole new assembly. Complete coil over time. And look into protecting your chassis with something like fluid film. Looks like your spring cups are about to fail too.
     
  17. May 6, 2019 at 1:32 PM
    #17
    jakbakcrak

    jakbakcrak [OP] New Member

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    That was the next thing I was going to ask...very much appreciated. I just wanna thank everyone for their input and I'm gracious for your time..!!
     
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  18. May 6, 2019 at 1:34 PM
    #18
    jakbakcrak

    jakbakcrak [OP] New Member

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    I live in the Chicago region and salt seems to be the choice for the streets in the winter. Lots and lots and lots of salt.....
     
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  19. May 6, 2019 at 1:35 PM
    #19
    jakbakcrak

    jakbakcrak [OP] New Member

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    what is fluid film...?
     
  20. May 6, 2019 at 1:39 PM
    #20
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    It’s a animal-based lubricant protectant that you can spray on. It comes in a aerosol can or you can get a gallon and spray it on with a paint gun. It’s a once a year application. There are other products out there similar or better. I’m forgetting their names right now. But don’t put on an undercoating. That just covers up the rust and provides it a nice incubator for cancer. It sounds like a lot of work and it is but you should thoroughly inspect your frame, knock down all the loose rust and maybe use something like POR 15.
     
  21. May 6, 2019 at 1:41 PM
    #21
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol Recovering mangler

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    Spray on product from a aerosol can. Honestly, if you're planning on keeping this truck you really need to devote a solid weekend to doing something about that rust. That looks bad. Let us know your plans/willingness to do this and we can give you more feedback.


    https://www.fluid-film.com/products/
     
  22. May 6, 2019 at 1:42 PM
    #22
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    Welcome to the rust belt. That's about normal for anything older than 2010ish here.
     
    lsaami, landphil and 15whtrd[QUOTED] like this.
  23. May 6, 2019 at 1:48 PM
    #23
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Mr. Blonde

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    :eek2::eek:
     
  24. May 6, 2019 at 1:51 PM
    #24
    jakbakcrak

    jakbakcrak [OP] New Member

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    what would I need to use to work on the rust...I do not have access to a lift but neighbor has jack and stands...
     
  25. May 6, 2019 at 1:57 PM
    #25
    jakbakcrak

    jakbakcrak [OP] New Member

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    yeah, 16 years of Illinois winters and they use salt like it is part of the road concrete mix...there is a constant white film on vehicles 5-6 months yearly
     
  26. May 6, 2019 at 3:26 PM
    #26
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

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    I’d spray the entire frame with an extra large can of PB Blaster ‘Penetrating’ oil to soak into all the pores and act as a starter/primer for the second round of Moly Lithium Grease layer (2 small tubs). Use a large sponge and start slathering every square inch of metal with a thin Moly layer like polishing shoes. Take you about two days.

    Pictured is a grease plunger I fabbed up. Its a flexible fiberglass stick with a rag wrapped around a sponge cut to size to jam down into the box frame areas.

    upload_2019-5-6_18-25-2.jpg
     
    bmf4069 and 15whtrd like this.
  27. May 6, 2019 at 4:20 PM
    #27
    jakbakcrak

    jakbakcrak [OP] New Member

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    thank you, sir..!!
     
  28. May 6, 2019 at 4:54 PM
    #28
    SoCalPaul

    SoCalPaul New Member

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    I’d thoroughly inspect that frame before sinking much money into it.
     
    landphil, 15whtrd and FirstGenVol like this.
  29. May 6, 2019 at 6:23 PM
    #29
    jakbakcrak

    jakbakcrak [OP] New Member

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    What do I look for...cracks, holes etc..? The truck has mostly been used for daily driving to work about 7 miles both ways for 16 years. Is there a company who does the rust restore with the correct products?. I know under coating isn't a good idea as it traps moisture.
     
  30. May 6, 2019 at 6:27 PM
    #30
    jakbakcrak

    jakbakcrak [OP] New Member

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    I must say this is a great truck, would like to get another 110k out of it. Willing to sink a few bucks into it. It's better than a new truck payment and new trucks are huge...couldn't get one into my garage...!!
     
    SoCalPaul and 15whtrd like this.

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