What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I agree with @empty_lord about checking while it is on the ground. I think you get a better sense of movement that way because the ball joint isnt locked into tension.

I swapped mine out around 120k, mostly because boots were torn and my lift at the time was probably accelerating wear. I swapped again recently and I'm at 220k, again more because boots exploded on one side.

One other thing, my original ball joints had some sort of cover on them, like a plastic guard over the boot. At the time I just threw them out figuring all Toyota ones had it, I was wrong and I kinda wish I kept that. Maybe it protected the boots.

 

they help keep road debris from flying up and hitting the boots. i keep them on, seem to help the boot stay in one piece

 

Headers is definitely on the list

 

Word. Well I hope we cross paths sometime. The Houston Tacomaworld crew (where I started out), has some beach meets and stuff from time to time.also there's a Texas Toyota Coalition (club) that goes on 4 wheeling trips and stuff.

 

ordered my next project... because i need a damn headliner again..... got a overhead console and both the secondary sun visors. gotta cut the holes out in the liner then the liners going to my buddy to get reupholstered so it doesnt have burn marks all over

 

So I got the standard eBay Toyota projectors and had to custom fit them to my door panel with a dremel tool. If you go in the same placement I did they will clear the rocker molding. And I just did the passenger side today about 10 min ago

 

I just did the lower ball joints on my 2006. I was doing the CV shafts so it was a no brainer. I used Toyota parts. There are Tundra specific YouTube videos. Get the tool if you don’t feel like beating on it.

This is the ball joint tool I used for the LBJ.

$35 GEARWRENCH Ball Joint Separator | 3916D

https://www.amazon.com/GearWrench-3...teway&sprefix=Gear+wrench+ball,aps,877&sr=8-3

 

Both mine are like that. Of course if got a a few feet of air on multiple ocasions.

 

Yeah. Mine are jacked up from reliving the Baja 500 in the trucks early years. The towing/haul hasn’t helped.

 

Booger Confessions

A few months ago I posted this pic asking what you thought about it and nobody responded so today I follow up with a confession. I was doing a baster suck and fill on the power steering fluid with the truck engine running (should be off). Towards the end of getting mucho fluid out the Power Steering Pump started screaming. Within seconds I filled the reservoir back up as I fortunately had the fresh bottle ready right by my side and it was quicker than running around and turning off the truck. This all happened in seconds. The fresh fluid went in and the screaming stopped in seconds.

The next day of driving, after being relieved I did not destroy the pump, I did another suck and fill and this is when the Boogers showed up. It took 2 more suck and fills the finish off the Boogers. They haven’t been back. Maybe I inadvertently broke up some built up cack in the system? Kinda like a sneeze?

 

Ordered some new vent knobs and a OBDII Bluetooth plug in today. I tried to retorque my u bolts but they were tight. Tried to hammer the overload spring over. No dice. Still no clue what I'm hearing back there.

I got one of the rear shocks out to get a feel for what to expect. Others reported a place for an allen wrench on some shocks to keep them from spinning. Definitely not seeing that. It looks like I might be able to hold the top with an adjustable wrench though.

 

I've never seen allen heads on the top of the shock shafts but I've also never used much other than stock types. Most have had a flat spots at the top that fit a 3/8"(?) wrench

 

Here is a better shot. I just tried all 3 wrenches I own and none open wide enough. Looks like I'm buying something.

 

Cutting the body mount

 

The screaming tells you that you introduced air to the system. As the air passed thru things were un-lubed, so booger on booger. Not that you were steering, but you did burb the system. Going to take some steering to pump that air out.

 

Its been about 3 months since the booger incident. Steering is fine. Never was a problem even right after it happened.

 

Drove by this



Dodge ram single cab. Poor guy. No accident or anything, looks like he just realized his truck was on fire and he pulled over and got out. Never a cool thing to see.

 

Yea no don’t pull that.. it’s for internal of the rack. I use my vacuum siphoner, suck the res out, pull the return line, plug the res fill to top and siphon through the return till it’s clean. Then install the return line and turn the wheel lock to lock 3-4 times before starting the trucn

 

As fun as that looks I think you'll need more surgery once you start stuffing those tires on turns.

 

Thanks for this. I checked that part its called a Rack Cap. Looked at the exploded view and determined its probably not a drain cap as the steering column spindle drops in there.

I crawled under the truck just now as I wanted to look again at a slow leak, what I think to be steering rack leak, on the drivers side bellows.

I discovered drops about 6 months ago on the bellows and slid it back and cleaned out what seemed like maple syrup/oil/water blend with a hint of lard. No pics as it was raining and cold that evening. Cleaned it off and put a zip tie on where there was none due to OEM rusting off.

Anyways, I see no leakage after the booger flush. Maybe the new zip tie keeps water out and from leaking though a few pin holes in the bellow.

You ever check on that connector at the driverside footwell? fester stated it may be a Pre Dealer Inspection removal piece. Curious as to its possible use.

 

Already stuffed them on turns and it wasn't so bad. Contrary to popular belief, this truck isn't just a street princess. I just haven't pushed it because I don't care to break the 5100s when I have a better built truck to crawl in. So it's baby steps until it's better built to push.

 

@Darkness @because_v8 @Casper421 @Rheywood456

I'm having a hard time deciding what size tires to order. I want to fit the biggest I can without having to do a bunch of trimming.

The wheels I'm planning on ordering have 4.3" BS.

I was leaning towards 285/75/17. I'll be buying SPC UCAs so clearing the UCAs shouldn't be an issue.

Suggestions?

 

I loved my 285/75/17 before I upgraded to 35s. I only needed to hammer some pinch weld but not much

 

What tire were you running in that size? You were rocking 5100's too right?

 

Honestly completely forgot. Been busy the past week. Private message me so I remember to check when I get home tonight

 

I pulled out my broken Toyota axle and started installing a 14 bolt Chevy today so far it’s been a pretty easy swap.

 

I would never call it a street princess

I have only seen 35s on access cabs, maybe the inner wheel well space is more generous on double cabs. On access cabs a significant amount of tubbing is needed, especially with uniball arms. Hence, I have 33s and want 35s.

 

Anything above a 32 is likely going to need trimming.

 

Yeah i think the DC is different. I had to trim a decent amount to fit the 295/75r16. Do you recall the backspace on our wheels? I think it's 4.5