What would be a Good price for 2016 limited

They are asking $38,441
I’ve got them down to $37,500 over the phone
Trying to get them down to 36k

What do you guys think a good price is?
Thanks,



Mileage17,998
TrimLimited Double CabStock #32935PDVIN5TFBY5F13GX566900
ColorMagnetic Gray Met.Interior ColorBlack w/Piano BlackGas MileageCity:13 Hwy:17Doors4Passengers5Engine5.7L 8-Cylinder SMPI DOHCTransmission6 Speed Elect Controled Auto Transmission w/ InteDrivetrain4WD

 

Well you can get a new limited crewmax for 45. I'd be looking for closer to 32k

 

32k, That to me would be a great price

 

Don't you already have a2018? Curious why you are lookign at a 16

 

I hate the TSS and PCS issues, I Know you can turn them off, however if I could get into a 16 or 17 for a reasonable price and not have to deal with the BS and potential for the vehicle braking unexpectedly, I’d do it.

 

I see. It's weird how some have issues and others don't. I've had false alerts on mine 4 or 5 times but it never did emergency braking for me or anything

 

I’ve had the false alerts as well, no braking though, but the potential is there.
I’ve experienced unexpected vehicle braking in my Tacoma. And it is scary...
So
If I can eliminate the possibility, I would definitely do it.

 

Good luck. One major thing comes to mind in regards to finances.
Mileage on vehicle vs amount owed. I'd say this sounds a prudent decision if you're milage(usage of commodity) vs amount owed balances out.
Of coursethis is based on the vehicle being financed.
And that we are comparing the same vehicle features.


Granted moving from an 18 to a 16 you should Inherently be saving money

So it's almost 0200 so my maths may not be right
But
Let's say for arguments sake that the tundra has a 150k lifespan.
We are trying to figure out which of the two has a better ratio of cost to usable life

I'd imagine that
Current mileage divided by usable milage then multiplied by cost would get you a number. With the goal being the smaller number. This equation takes in to account current use and current cost

So in theory less use with more cost could net a smaller number than more use and less cost and this should the inversely true. Within reason. Granted when I wake up in the morning and out numbers to paper this may be gibbrish.

I don't think this is the way most people make decisions. I know it wasn't the way I made my decision to purchase my current truck. It was on perceived need and ability to finance more truck lmao

 

Interesting theory...
So I ran the numbers
The 16 came up the winner per your equation...
Thank you for input...

 

Heck, for 36, you could get into a platinum crewmax...https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inven...=false&filtersModified=true#listing=226107662
What all do you want for features? You could throw leather in this pretty reasonable..https://www.cargurus.com/Cars/inven...=false&filtersModified=true#listing=222362459

 

I have one in my area with 32K on it going for $33K, same year and model. Miles look decent

 

17800 on the odometer

 

17,800 on the odometer for a 2016 limited for 36..is a good deal to me..I'd shoot for 34 being it's a DC..IMHO

 

I'd offer 34k then walk out paying no more then 35k.

 

i just picked up my 16 1794 CPO with 14k on odo for 40k. that price is high for a double cab.

 

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/771033644/overview/

 

I bought my CPO 14 limited crewmax in Feb 2017 for $38k with 17,900 miles. Thought that was fair. Little high for a double cab IMO. Though it’s a 16 without the nannies, which I think is going to raise the values for the Tundras without all the safety crap. This is the main reason I will be keeping my truck as long as it lasts! I have no need for a computer to make decisions about driving for me.

 

I paid 31k for a 16 DC Ltd a few months ago. 47k on the clock

 

Thank you for all the input.
I’m going to just keep my 18
And wait for the fix.

 

Always negotiate out the door pricing. Sales price + sales tax + registration fee that’s normal for your county and state. Everything else is pure BS.

Some dealers feel they absolutely cannot waive dealer fees and other BS nonsense. I don’t care how they structure it so long as the out the door price meets my goal for fair sales price + tax + tag, all in. If that means they have to lower the sales price even lower than my goal to squeeze in their dealer fee so be it. Point being, if you only negotiate sales price there will be unwanted surprises at signing.

 

I just bought my 16 CM 2wd limited for 31k last week. It had 53k miles on it but it had never hauled anything and not a single sign of bed usage. I thought I overpaid with the mileage but I love the truck.

 

Just bought a 2018 Limited with 19,300 miles for $35k +TTL. It has sunroof, bedliner, tow mirrors and limited premium package no accidents. I would offer less, if they don’t, you’ll find another good deal.

 

FYI - I bought my 2017 Limited Crew Max brand new last July for $43K only $5,500 more than your aiming for on a used 2016 Double Cab. That doesn't appear to be a great deal, I'd keep looking or they'd need to come down a decent amount.

 

Just take it back to dealer I see no point of going in reverse from 18 to 16 if anything wait for the 2021

 

I

Smart move. The transactional costs are steep.

 

Yep, just having to pay sales tax again hurts. That is unless you live in one of the few states that allow a deduction on private sale. I think most but not all do on a trade. If you can deduct for income taxes then you will lose less.