Fixing the JBL system

The stock JBL system I had in my 2012 Tacoma was amazing.
The one they put in my 2019 Pro is meh

 

My 2007 Tundra Limited had the JBL at the time top of the line. I added a sub and amp and the system was amazing. Toyota has for whatever reason made the new Tundra audio worse, its baffling.

 

Mine is a Limited as well and the only option that I know of is the Sub (or dual Subs) and tweeters.

 

Ok, thats good to know, I was thinking it might be the full system and that would have something to do with the sound upgrade from the line out converter

 

So I ordered just the Audio+ JBL enhancement kit. The JBL speakers are good speakers, they just have a crap amp powering them. the filter that comes with the JBL enhancement kit helps fix that. I do not believe that you would need the line output converter with the full OEM kit, because you are replacing the amplifier with one from OEM Audio. The line output converter just helps with allowing the aftermarket amplifier to work with the JBL amplifier.

Now when you say your sub is bottoming out, what does that mean? Before I hooked up the line output converter, the sub was barely making any noise. Not sure if I had something loose that was fixed when I installed the converter, but it now sounds really good.

 

Also, I was informed that OEM Audio+ is working on an amplifier that would come with the enhancement kit for the JBL systems, and it would replace the factory one. That would eliminate the need for the line output converter. It would probably make the JBL speakers sound quite a bit better than the current kit does.

 

I have the 1794 so the OEM Audio+ kit I have is just the sub, tweets, filters. I did just order the 2nd sub, have not received it yet. What I mean by bottoming out is similar to turning the bass level all the way up where the sub can't handle it. This happens with the remote sub level control turned way down and the bass setting on my head unit set in the middle

 

Good to know, I'll look into that. As you and others have said, the stock JBL door speakers are fine, they just need then right power going to them.

 

Weird, I had exactly the opposite experience. I couldn't even hear the sub when I installed it without the converter. Not sure if the converter will help in your case, but it wouldn't hurt to ask.

What connecter on the factory amplifier did you install the filter on? They use to send out two filters, but now just one. I received only one in my kit and installed it on the middle connector, per instructions from Sandy at OEM Audio.

 

Here is the video OEM Audio+ made on how to install and tune the converter. This is the model I received.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ml09kjSlTiw&feature=youtu.be

 

Thank you for posting that, really helpful.

 

Bottoming out is when, in this case, the sub woffer reaches its mechanical limit traveling inwards and the voicecoil contacts the back plate of the motor.

Two main causes are over powering the sub (typically when in a sealed box).
And an incorrect tuning /internal volume of the box.

Its almost always caused from the sub being in a box that isnt designed for, or the music it will most often be playing. Rock music vs hip hop would be a major factor in design.

If a sub is bottoming out and its in a sealed box, make sure the bass boost on the amp and headunit are off. Matter of fact, never use bass boost. It is probably one of the biggest reasons for equipment failure.

If it is still bottoming out, dial back the gain a bit.

If its a ported box, firstly, you need an amp with a subsonic/infersonic crossover. It is an absolute must.

Then dial it up until the sub no longer bottoms out. This cost of low end output.

A ported sub enclosure will be tuned to a certain frequency deppending on it volume and port size/length. At and around that frequency there is a substantial increase in output. But as the frequency starts to play lower than its tuning the sub loses its ability to controll it movement. Basically there air in the box doesnt act like a shock when the cone is traveling inwards.

 

No worries.

What connector did you plug the filter in on your factory amplifier that OEM Audio+ sent? Did your receive 2 or 1 filter?

 

They put alot of money into the tss system it had to come from somewhere

 

Nice little home screen

 

Very nice, could it be set lower?

 

Ya I have it at the highest seting but it doesn't block my view I'm tall this is what I see from pov

 

They sent me 2 filters, the connectors are unique to each plug on the factory amp so there’s. I guess work on the plug connections.

 

Thanks for the specifics on subs. I’d imagine the gain is set a touch high on the single
Sub I have. When I add the 2nd sub, I plan on dialing it in. I’ll report back how it goes

 

When did you buy your kit? I purchased a month ago and they had only sent one filter as they said that the other wasn’t necessary.

 

Hey Beast, thanks very much for the thread and information.

Can I ask how if at all you can control the goofy little things like seat settings that are controlled under menus within the factory HU? I just picked up a 16' 1794 today and my only real complaint after 150 miles is the sound quality, the lack of android auto, and losing my wireless charger from the Taco I traded in, modding for that soon. Love the size of this screen and having google maps. Don't mind losing the instrument cluster turns on the screen there at all but I am curious how you adjust things that are controlled through the HU menus. I'm just now sitting down with the manuals so hopefully this isn't a dumb question that will be answered within those.

Thanks again for any info anyone can provide.

 

Interesting, bought my kit last year around this time. Does your kit say which filter you were sent?

 

You will need a idatalink meastro rr module to interface the alpine to the truck it plugs into the obd2 port and the head unit once it's all installed you can go into maestro setings then vehicle setings and change everything also alows you to read engine codes and see all the vehicle sensors the easy exit seat options are under other in vehicle setings
https://www.google.com/shopping/pro...WBCMuNGBVqQvDap97v6yQTnm-7w,cdl:1,prmr:3,cs:1

 

Awesome man, thank you very much. I think this is the one for me then, my local guys are mostly a kenwood shop; they're going to hate it. Thanks for the help. I can't wait to be able to see google maps on a big screen that isn't mostly just glare from the sun. Wish it were already wireless android auto but I'll just have to watch for the next upgrade.

 

You can always look into a digital sound processor (dsp).

Parts express released one recently and is super affordable. You'd have to check with them for compatibility, though.

 

I plugged it into the center connector on the amplifier. Not sure what the difference between my filter and yours in the same position, but OEM Audio+ said that it was essentially a duplication of effort in using both filters, so they moved down to just the one.

 

Can you snap a pic of the filter and the location its plugged into, I am curious to try my system without the 2nd filter.

thx

 

New jl speakers going in today!!! Paper cone small magnets JBL speakers going in the trash this is what the stock ones look like I doubt they were made by JBL maby tuned by them

 

This is what I'm putting in and progress

 

Which speaker mounts are you using for the C2-650’s? How are you connecting the OEMAudio sub to the amp?

I also have two sets of the c2-650 I bought years ago for my other truck but never did install them!