What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

How do you pump it?

 

$10 Plews 55001 Lubrimatic Fluid Quart Pump, Fits Standard Quart Bottles

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQW5LK/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_xdKQCbJJZTC58

 

I'm gonna need more info on greasing the 4WD zerks. I don't really understand what you did. Not even sure filing something will help me. The grease gun tip is just too big for thosr zerks.

 

I tried one of these as well but went back to the OEM antenna. Not only did the reception suck (not that this will bother you) but it also created a whistling noise that I thought was my windshield (had a windshield installed at the same time as the stubby). Thru the process of elimination I put the OEM back on and the whistling went away...

Hope this works for you

 

change your zerks to fit your gun
<https://www.saeproducts.com/grease-fittings.html>
Or change your grease gun tip.

 

Take the mast off & have nothing but the fitting. open dash & install a marine 'wire' antenna to your radio. Also sucks unless you take time to lay it just right & secure it there (but will still sucks). But you will get the strong stations & you just lay the wire inside the dash out of sight & mind. That's what I did with the taco after a tree snapped my mast off.

edit: Oh, this might be better still - might work.
https://www.solidsignal.com/pview.asp?p=4353

 

Mityvac makes a tool I use at work
https://www.tooltopia.com/mityvac-m...MI0NiF4eW-4QIVhsDACh3nkQ_kEAQYAiABEgJGjvD_BwE

 

That link doesn't work.

How would I know what gun tip to buy?
Seems like I'd have to guess.

If I knew what size fitting I needed I would buy one.

 

I wonder if there is a cap to cap off the hole for the antenna base?

 

The grinded area now allows the regular tip to fit onto the tight 4wd u-joint zerk by being able to slip past the tight clearance of the tee.

 

From what I’ve experienced, its better to make your own long funnel and snake down through rather than pumping. Either way works.

 

Good luck doing that on the sealed 5 speed transmissions. Dipstick like yours funnel works great

 

Interesting. Well, we'll find out I guess. I hope I don't get the whistling.

I thought of that, but then I'd still have the antenna fitting on the outside of the truck, which imho looks even dumber. With the stubby, it still looks complete.

 

I’ve seen it done (on a sealed 5 speed) so I know its possible. PEX pipe works wonders. I use it to fill my front diff vs. doing the cocked side neck and bottle squeeze laying on your side.

I’ve seen the pump work well, too. Either way there are options.

 

Finally got around to installing the 5100's. Night and day difference. Next up 13WL brake kit (have the parts, don't have much time) and wheels/tires. For reference, the top photo were some garbage Monroe quick strut kit, the bottom is with some salvaged TRD springs and 5100's set on the 3rd clip. The actual increase in the front from wheel center to bottom of the fender was about 3.5".

I am going to let the front settle and then decide if I want to install a half inch block in the rear.

 

Hi, Guys: I'm working on buffing the paint before rolling in bed-liner. Buff; then power wash; then dry; then ready for Herculiner? Or do I need to prep with Acetone or something? What did you guys do?

When we pulled out the OEM plastic bed liner, found almost no rust. So I'm just sanding it off. Counting my blessings....

 

Sand, wipe down with acetone and then roll away.

 

Nudrat , you are exactly correct as a matter of fact , when I called last week to report the seat cover was wrong the lady asked if I had a manual seat and I told her yes. The automatic seat had a larger plastic cover on tue side with the buttons and so forth thus a smaller amount of seat material is needed for the side.

 

Removed my busted flare and cleaned up the fender. Pulled it out so we don't rub it, took some polishing compound to the tire marks and pulled passenger side so it matches. Over the next week or so I'll try and get the tire marks out of the flare so they can go back on. Most tedious part was cleaning up all that old glue
Before:

During:

After:

It honestly doesn't look terrible without the flare. I just prefer the flare look. While they are off we plan to cut and clearance some more

 

No glass?!

 

We decided to put money elsewhere right now. Turns out my 5100s are leaking and is now causing a terrible bounce. So ADS coilovers should be ordered tomorrow. Bilstein b110 shocks and wheelers rear bump stops should be here Tuesday. We also need new tires so we are getting those later this week hopefully. So we are trying to make the stock fenders look and function decent for now. Glass is still on the list, we just put other things first

 

im torn as to what i want to do for a lift.. OME or bilstein? hmm... icons dont hold up to well in the winters (ive rebuilt my tacos twice now)

 

http://www.pentairprotect.com/en/na/Product-Electrical-Enclosures-Hole-Seals
If that link doesn't work, go to pentairprotect -dot- com & search "hole seals" That's an example of plugs you could paint to match & plug your antenna hole. ...if you don't like the stubby.

 

So... Got serious about looking for my P/S leak. Reservoir was empty so added fluid, got my brightest flashlight, started the truck, looked along the lines with the engine running & found my leak, & all the fluid in a foamy puddle on the driveway.

One of my metal lines looks a bit squashed, is rusted there & has both a hole & a long split.
If I had to guess I'd say it got slightly crushed during the frame swap, which cracked the exterior coating, which begot faster rusting & a pin hole that I've been dealing with, & likely hit a pothole just right very recently which begot me the split that is now dumping fluid.

All the other lines look good actually. (Sorry no pics, but it's in a 3 handed area & I'm not Gumby any more.)
So the Tundra is parked until I get it to the shop. I just don't have the dexterity of a professional hand model to change that part myself, nor the proper wrenches to install the new ones w/o buggering the threads. Alas.

and having a good look around whilst down under; a 16 year old CT truck has enough rusty bits that I need to have a serious consideration. Should I fix this, sell the truck & find a southern one w/ the magic back window? That might mean selling the '02 Taco too. I like to return old things to like new, I think this truck might be a run it into the ground truck.

Hmmm.

 

I've always bought Bilstein and I really like my rear 5160s with the reservoir. But I also rode on the trail in a 2nd gen taco with OME and holy shit was it a smooth ride. Bilstein is a little rough

 

You got some info on this? I did the same thing but haven't gotten pictures or posted yet. We have 80mph gusts the other night and it got away from me. Top hinge is bent. It went hard enough it actually bent the edge of the door. I'm not happy about it. It whistles at highway speed and is hard to shut. Feels and sounds bad opening and closing.


Took pics

 

Best explanation I can give without doing a video, is to tighten your bolts. You may have to take off the door and rest it on a bucket to get to those two interior bolts (12mm) on the body.

You can also use a paint roller and wedge it strategically, in the hinge area and the latch side, and push the door (basically bending and manipulating slightly).

My door is back at 95%. Everything operates nicely, but sometimes the door needs reshutting if the cabin pressure is high. The whistle can be fixed by the bending and use of some weather stripping from big box to fluff out the OEM gasket. Stuff it under and behind gaskets at that bend and you can even stick it to the door.

I’ll post pics later.

 

Over the weekend I got the sway bar installed, Moog end links, and wheeler's poly end link bushings along with their poly sway bar bushings. Wow, what a difference. The truck feels very planted in the corners.

I also completed the PCV & grommet swap. Went fairly easy. I took off the hose and cleaned it out really well.

Lastly I took off the air box and gave it a good scrubbing, then let if fully dry. The bottom of it was very dirty, that old filter did a great job because the top of the box was very clean (as I would have hoped!) I decided to use a Purolator filter.

While I was under the truck I inspected it and noticed my carrier bearing rubber is totally shot. I have zero vibrations, but I don't want to wait until I have issues. So that will be happening in the near future.

 

Spent about 45 minutes beating the tow hitch out to the distance you see here. I wedged it in with some washers about 17 years ago and wanted to visually inspect for rust today. All looks good. I cleaned it up with a file. Greased the shaft and beat the thing back in. Painted it up and put on a new lock rod, as the old keyed one needed cutting off. Finished greasing off the tow package assy while there.







Grease needled the OEM shackles pretty good. They had some surface rust and looked thirsty. Probably could use replacing down the road, but for now they are fine. That needle penetration got in there pretty well. The ride has noticeably softened a touch in the rear.





Snapped some shots of the greased under carriage work from the other day. Should be good to go with this thick layer of Moly Lith. Plunged a ton of grease down the boxed frame up front.

 

Hand Man , I gotta do this . Did use a air powered grease gun and did you insert needle in several areas to get good coverage on the shackles?