Another Travel Trailer Post

Just $0.02 from my experience, a WDH does not add any weight capacity to your payload, thats kinda dangerous thinking, it does enable you to better control your trailer. In order to avoid payload, load the cargo in the trailer instead of the bed of the truck so it becomes weight being pulled and only a portion being added to payload. You can do that so long as you dont overload the trailers weight. I recommend going through some sort of scale so you know exactly where you stand on trailer weight and a weigh safe hitch or equivalent for knowing tongue weight. I think both of the trailers are feasible if you plan accordingly, also depends on your traveling environment.

 

What did you end up buying? Been flirting with the idea of a ORV 21DBS but I think it's more than I want to put on the Tundra. I have read great things about this manufacturer compared to the mfgs under the larger umbrella corporations (Thor, etc.) I've been looking to see if we could rent one to try out first. Not many people with the 21DBS out there renting their trailers out and only seems to be one dealer in the Phoenix area for the ORV trailers.

 

We ended up going with the ORV Mountain Series 21RBS.

After all the feedback we went and looked at Lance trailers which were nice and good build quality. Close to the ORV I think. We really liked the 1995 based on layout and the base weight of about 4400lbs. But when you add in the 4 season package and a couple other things the actual weight gets really close to the ORV 21RBS. I went back and crunched all the numbers again and felt that we could do the ORV, but just with not as much fudge factor as the lance.

We have pulled it twice. Once home on the freeway with plenty of big rigs and cars. Everything felt really stable and comfortable(no added weight of our stuff and empty tanks). Another trip of about 2 hours each way on a mix of HWY and 2 lane winding roads and everything was good(loaded up with a pretty good load of our equipment, but still empty tanks). We do use a WDH and that does a really good job of keeping the truck level. I think the 21DBS is a touch liter then the RBS. One of the 21's or 22's was lighter than the 21RBS.

 

Looks like the DBS is actually about 100lbs heavier on hitch weight and about 300lbs heavier dry weight.

 

Just curious, did you pull the data from the stickers for you crewmax? Is it 4x4? My SR5 crewmax 4x4 TSS (spray in bedliner, 20in wheels, nerf bars and KO2s) was 5900 on the scale with a half tank of gas. Seems drastic but I don't need the nerf bars and could put my spare in the TT which would get me another ~100lbs of payload. Really don't need the tailgate either since I wont have anything in the truck bed and I camp within 100 miles of my house so a full tank of gas is not needed which will save 120 lbs.

 

That extra hundred tongue is a little concerning based on what the capacity of the truck is, but if you don't have a crazy amount of stuff in the truck then you should be ok.

 

I have not weighed the truck but it is a Crewmax 4x4 LTD. Book curb weight is 5680 and the add on's sticker for the truck is only 22lbs. I had planned on adding sliders, Max Modular rack, and some other cool things, but I am not doing that now for towing weight reasons.

I think shorter distance towing knowing where you are going and hill grades could make you more comfortable with towing at the trucks capacity. There are plenty here and other places that will say don't do it and others say the Tundra can do it fine. I say do all the research and make the best decision for your safety and those around you safety. I don't think many state agencies are running around checking, but that doesn't mean they won't and being stuck on the side of the road when you do get stopped at random and figuring out how to lighten the load doesn't sound like fun. I am sure it isn't a cheap fine either. Since California had some strict speed enforcement for trailers it wouldn't surprise me if they also might check weights occasionally.

 

What does your max payload say on the yellow door jam sticker? I agree and I pulled my trailer (6208 dry) with a 2015 f150 3.5 boost with no real problem (other than a half ton towing a big trailer) however the truck was a piece of junk (did have a max payload of 1740 though). I have not pulled the TT since I got the tundra but will be hooking up the equalizer hitch next weekend and test driving it. I have read that even though the tundra has lower payload capacities it tows better and feels more comfortable...not sure if that's true or not. Either way, my real concern would be getting into an accident overloaded and the possibilities of insurance bailing, lawsuits, etc. which is why I looking at what I can do to be within range.

 

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Not sure who you are replying to because didnt see you quote anyone but on my Crewmax 5.7L SR5 TRD Offroad 4x4 the payload is 1220lbs... so with a 750lb hitch weight you do not have much budget for cargo or passengers.

I remember reading comments of some guys saying the tundra is built closer to a Heavy Duty 3/4 ton than other 1/2 tons but the ratings and numbers sure dont seem to support that. The rear suspension is pretty soft it seems.

 

My payload sticker is 1185.

I am not sure what it looks like without a WDH since I have only run it with, and it looks and feels balanced. I do want to get to some scales to get some actual number. We are also going to take it out again in 2 weeks and head up over the mountains to see how the ups and downs go.

They may have built the Tundra closer to a 3/4 but the number show they only tested it to 1/2. Maybe there were underlying things that made them keep the numbers low to not get into some sort of import duties, or even over built it for longevity knowing people are going to tow more than they should. I have no knowledge of that, or what I am talking about.

1185 - the trailer tongue about 600 means I have the remainder for gear and cargo. Subtract people and dog and we have about 200 left for snacks, and any weight that the trailer might add above its stated weight on the tongue. Even if we completely max out the trailer and truck weights we will be under the gross total for the truck/trailer combo.

 

You've been using the factory integrated brake controller without issue?

 

When we first hooked it up it did give the disconnected warning. The RV dealer tested the trailer and it checked out fine. It did hook up without issue from then on. I am worried that it is going to be an issue though with all I have read.

The trailer lights did not work correctly when I had the truck lights in the "auto" position. If I turn them to the "manual" on position all the lights work how they are supposed to.

 

Hmmm good little nugget of info right there!!!

 

Going back to this... I went through the 21DBS and overall it seemed like really nice quality compared to the bigger manufacturer groups. However I noticed one of the vents covers in the bathroom had a stripped screw and one of the little can/recessed white lights near the dinette was loose and not mounted against the ceiling very well. That was kind of what I expect from a 20k$ trailer not a $40k trailer.

 

I think there are always going to be some problems with whatever trailer you are looking at. There might be less with on an ORV, but at the end of the day it is still people building stuff in a factory, and you never know. Having the dealer do a good walk around getting those things fixed at the start is a smart thing to do.

There is a Outdoors RV facebook group that you can join and gather all sorts of info.

 

I think my biggest hesitations are the suitability of the tundra being able to tow it..and whether or not I really want to spend 30 grand on a Travel Trailer. Sure would love to rent one or find one used to buy locally.

 

I am pulling a JayFlight 23RBS with no issues. I have the 2017 double cab TRD Off road

 

I also tow with a Reese WD system, no sway bar, and it still tows like a dream. Oh did I mention I had 500 lbs of concrete cinder blocks in the back. My brother’s 2012 Ford F-150 FX 4 sags big time. I would not tow with a Ford without the airbag system. And a very good WD system. The F250 Seems to be fine. Chev 1/2 tons with the 327 better option. Higher payload than the Tundra, but the truck is quite a bit lighter. I would hav ebought the Chev but I like my vehicles on the road and not in the shops.

 

Tongue weight on that Jayco is considerably lighter than the 25ft Creekside 21DBS. Especially after loading the trailer! Water tank is ~80 gallons on the 21DBS and sits forward of the trailer axles. Guys on the Offroad RV Owners forums weighing their tongue weights are coming in over 1000lbs. Even with a WDH, that's going over the Tundra's capability once you consider cargo and passengers in the cab.

I'm redirecting my focus to a Grand Design Imagine XLS -- either the 19BWE or 21BHE. They both come in at under 25ft, which makes it better for getting to "off grid" spots and better for parking alongside my house. Dry hitch weights come in at 450-480lbs. Unloaded trailer weights come in around 4500-4800lbs. They're also listed for about 10 to 15 grand less than the Outdoors RV trailers and while I'm sure there's some tradeoffs in not having as much "beef" / quality, etc. It seems from my research so far that the Grand Design is still a mark above some of the "Thor Industries" makes and hopefully would hold up a little bit better down the road. Who knows though....

 

I don’t go off grid at all. If I did nether the truck or trailer would have been my 1st choice. I never fill up the fresh water tank and always have empty gray water and black water tanks. This way I don’t need to bring a 1000 lbs of off Grid Gear, generator, more water, gas for the generator. List goes on and on. I like the Grand Design but they are expensive as hell. I considered one as a 5th wheel, when I had my 2500Hd chev.

 

Those weights sound like really comfortable numbers to tow. It is about what is going to make you happy!

 

Did you pick a trailer yet? I was all over the map and considered Outdoors RV, Nash, Lance, Rockwood, Grand Design, Heartland North Trail and half a dozen others. In the end I landed on a Keystone Cougar 26-footer with a dry weight of 5,500#, GVWR of 7,200# and hitch weight of 620#. I’m a solo traveler so not that much cargo weight ... hoping I’m within the limits of the Tundra be cuz I’m picking the trailer up next week!

 

I went with the Outdoors RV. Numbers are similar to the Keystone. Your tongue weight is higher than the ORV. But I think you are going to be within the capacities of the truck. As a solo traveler you can keep a lot of weight out of the truck and in the trailer and that will keep you within the law.

 

I have a 5th wheel trailer with 1060 lbs pin weight. I took one trip then added Firestone airbags and a TRD rear sway bar. Both made a big difference in how the truck rides while pulling the trailer but I still have a smooth ride when not trailering. I didn't "Tee" the airbag lines to prevent the transfer of air from one side to the other during cornering. Great truck and trailer combination.

 

Where is the fresh water tank located on the Keystone I wonder. I think that 70 or 80 gallon tank Outdoors RV puts in front of the axle really kills the tongue weight. Guys on ORV Owner forums were weighing in at over 1,000lbs tongue weight with a loaded trailer. The 21DBS for instance is about 720lbs tongue weight dry, but loaded guys are busting the 1,000lb weight so even with a WDH, you'd basically have to have an empty cab and unmodified Tundra Crewmax to stay within limits. 80 gallons of freshwater is a sh*t-ton of weight to add in front of the trailer! If you could plan ahead and fill the fresh water tank close to your destination it might make majority of the trip more comfortable.

 

I ordered a set of Sumo Springs to help with rear end sag. Driving down to Iowa on Saturday to meet my new Cougar!

 

I would love to hear some feedback after you get the Sumo Springs installed and hook up the RV, i'll be watching, tx...

 

Agreed. What we normally did on our trailer (which was destroyed when a tree fell on it during straight line winds from a storm) was put about 10-15 gallons in the fresh water tank. Gave you plenty of water in case you had to pull over for an emergency potty break and you couldn't find somewhere to use their restroom.

 

I installed the Sumo Springs yesterday morning ... the black one (47s ... the mid-density ones). Installation was easy. I noticed after the installation that the back end of the 2019 Tundra appeared to sit about an inch higher. Driving behavior didn’t change much ... maybe could feel the bumps a little more in the rear but really not bad. So I drive 350 miles down to Iowa to pick up my travel trailer today. The trailer has a dry weight of about 5,500 pounds and a dry tongue weight of approx 650 pounds. The dealership hooked everything up with a new 1,200# Equalizer brand weight distribution hitch. Here’s the weird part. Once the trailer was lowered and the WD hitch engaged, there didn’t appear to be ANY rear end sag on the Tundra. Great right? So I reached under the frame to see how much the Sumo Springs were compressed ... not only were they not compressed but the didn’t appear to even be pressing against the underside of the frame so the didn’t appear to be any sag occurring. Makes me wonder whether I could have left my original bump stops in place which would give a better overall ride. Anyway, the trailer towed like a dream ... I won’t say I didn’t know it was back there but it tracked straight and true with absolutely no sway or instability. Would love to hear others thoughts on this. Maybe the Sumo Springs will begin to do more work once the trailer is fully loaded (7,200# gross weight max).