Help me figure out what size lift I have so I can swap for Bilsteins

Here's my truck. Its a 2004, 2WD, access cab w/ about 200k miles on it.



Currently its got 285/75/R16 tires on. I purchased it with a lift already installed. Here's a pic of the spacer.


I don't believe there is any lift in the back because I don't see any blocks.


Unfortunately my front suspension is squeaking over speed bumps and the bushing on the shocks look like they are done. After spraying WD40 on those bushings the squeaking went away so that has got to be the issue.


I know my shocks are pretty old now so I want to get Bilstein 5100's all the way around. I want to take out the spacers and just use the Bilstein lift instead. I assume I would need to set it to the highest setting possible.

My question is do you guys think that 2.5 (or is it 2.7) in. lift is going to be enough to equal the spacers I have in there now and be able to fit those tires? Any help would be really appreciated.

Let me know if I left anything out. Thanks!
Great Forum by the way!

 

Looks like the standard 1.5 to 2” lift insert.

 

I would agree, likely 2". If you are wanting to remove that spacer and go all spring/strut lift bilstein 5100's are adjustable and will fit what you need, you definitely are on the right track. They should give you enough lift to basically 'replace' the height that was added by the spacer, and you will very likely experience a much better ride quality!

I could be mistaken, but I think the 2nd to highest notch might equal your lift height better than highest notch. If it were me I would at least try not to go on the highest setting just for the sake of ride quality. If the 2nd to highest notch gives you what you are looking for, go with that!

Last thing, I would check to see if your struts and coil springs are likely factory (or at least the coil springs). As some have stated, there are placement quick strut companies out there that do not use the same diameter spring. I know that Monroe quick strut springs will not carry over and work with the Billy 5100's. Just food for thought before you hop into all of this!

While you're there check out your upper ball joints, lower ball joints, and tie rod ends. You'll want to get an alignment after the Billy 5100's and you might as well replace the previously mentioned parts while you're down there so you don't have to fork out the coin for another alignment.

***It looks like your upper ball joint in the picture above might be blown. I could be mistaken, however I would hate for you to have that fail on you!

The bushings on your sway bar end links are pretty done as well. Won't harm the vehicle as much as the previously mentioned items, but are fairly inexpensive. They will definitely be a noticeable replacement too, the truck will handle far better!

btw, nice looking truck!!

 

I agree 2 inch

 

Lucky you have a 2WD. I have a 4WD of the same vintage as you, but can't seem to figure out what to do (for some unknown reason I can't go above 1.1inches with the 5100s). Not getting much input either...

What's the best source / brand for these parts you mention?

-Upper ball joints
-Lower ball joints
-Tie rod ends
-Sway bar bushings

It was easy to order Bilstein 5100 because that's a pretty clear brand/part. The rest is a bit harder to figure out. For example, I see shackles ranging from $35 to $350...

Edit: I realize the easy answer is OEM. Cool Springs lists the first three items, if I understand correctly, for about $396 total. The sway bar thing seems to come as a complete link for $88 each (?!)

 

I have not been around as many of the others, and I am certainly no expert, however I would say strictly OEM for the upper and lower ball joints. I have heard horror stories of failed lower ball joints, so strictly OEM IMHO.

I just recently changed to MOOG Tie Rod Ends. We'll see how they do. I did them before joining the site, so I didn't know how great toyota OEM was. I have always used MOOG so I thought why not?! We'll see how long they last.

As for the sway bar bushings I can't really say. I know that people have reported the poly bushings squeaking some but tighten up the steering and body roll that is felt. I am still researching the sway bar bushings. When doing those end links that were mentioned I would also do the bushings that actually hold the sway bar. They will likely be in similar condition to the sway bar end links. I have heard of companies offering poly versions of these too, but they include new brackets which have a grease-able zerk fitting. Not certain on longevity or which one is best for sway bars, so I'm sorry I'm not a ton of help there!

I hope that helps my friend!

 

I was thinking the same thing as you guys until I saw this page.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/largest-tire-you-can-run-stock-for-all-generations.9762/

According to that I shouldn't be able to fit my tire size on there unless I have a 3 in. lift. That's why I was worried the Bilsteins wouldn't be enough to do the job. Maybe that link is not completely correct?

Going to change out the sway bar links as well when I do the job. Coils are original and I will be reusing those.

 

I believe the Billy 5100's can do 3" lift on top setting. that link is also more of a safe guideline in my opinion. People have fit larger tires on with minor trimming, spacers, etc. If you want the 5100's and for some reason they just aren't enough lift, get some small wheel spacers. Likely cheaper and will get everything where you want it to be.

I'm 99% certain that there are multiple forum members with the 5100's and factory coils that are running 285/75 tires just fine.

I'm going today to try and fit 285/70/17's on mine with no lift, but my wheels have good offset. We'll see!

On our trucks there is some trimming that can be done without adverse affects which gives a little more room. Removing mud flaps, trimming inside of front bumper, and trimming the pinch weld are a few that come to mind.

Hope this helps!

 

I would get the 5100’s and put them on the top setting. The ride will be firm, but in a good way, your truck will feel more stable and planted. You’re 2wd so you’ll probably gain more then 2.5 inches. What are your current measurements in the front? Measurement will be from the center of hub/wheel up to the bottom of your fender flares. Might as well measure the back while you’re at it.

 

Front and back booth look to be at about 21.5 inches.

So go top setting on the shocks?

 

Yes, I would do the top setting on the 5100’s. After install and alignment your measurements in the front should be around 23” give or take. If your truck has the original coil springs they will have 2 color marks on each of them to signify driver side/passenger side coil. Just be sure to reinstall them correctly. I also recommend finding a local auto shop to swap the 5100 struts into the coils. To me it’s worth $40-$50 to have them swapped over. I do most of my own truck work but I don’t have access to a branick and I don’t like messing with those chicken shit spring compressors from harbor freight. Just make sure and tell the technician to install them on the top setting.

 

I forgot to ask, are you running wheel spacers too? If not, do you have any rubbing? I would think running a 285 on a stock rim you’d be pretty close to the upper control arms.

 

You don't need 3" of lift. 2" or 2.5" will be fine. Your truck may already have the bumper corners and inner fender (pinched weld) addressed by the prior owner for clearance. Your current lift is 2" max and it works right? You'll land about where you are at the 4th notch, a bit higher on the top notch. You make get a little of that bro lean on top notch.

Revtune is right, check for paint Mark's on your coils and write down which one goes where, or easier take a picture. When they go back in put them back the same way.

 

Excellent advice. You are correct, the 4th notch will net you around a 2 inch lift possibly less considering the coils have 200k on them. I was assuming the OP wanted max lift and he’s 2wd so no CV to worry about
Also a great point about ending up nose high I forgot to mention a 1 inch rear block may need to be installed to match the height in the front if using the top setting. I mentioned wheel spacers because with those wide TRD flares you can get a beefier stance without the tire going beyond the edge of the flare while also avoiding the upper arms.

 

I do not have wheel spacers on there. At full lock I do get a little rubbing on the UCA but its pretty minimal and easily avoidable.

I like the idea of setting to the 4th notch since I dont want the bro lean and I wasnt planning on lifting the back. From what Ive read it sounds like the 4th notch may have a slightly better feel than the top so I will plan to go with that!

 

I wanted some last minute advice before I purchase the Billys.

I just realized it wouldnt cost much more to just get the OME Coilovers in the front instead that will give me 2.5in of lift.

Can someone tell me what kind of difference in ride there is between the Bilsteins and the Coilovers? Thanks!

 

I’ve got the ome front coilovers. I like them, they ride good. However because you’re a 2wd like me you’ll need to add a one inch block to the back so the truck isn’t nose high. What price are you looking at for the 5100’s? Front and rear? Or just the front?

 

Here you go.

Front and rear 5100’s on eBay, 100% positive feedback seller plus free shipping. This is a heck of a deal.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bilstein-B...412401&hash=item3ac6c4d34f:g:ae8AAOSwurZZDj5Q

 

Ya I guess 2.5in might be a little overkill for me. I didnt want to lift the back. Just sucks because I dont want to mess with a spring compressor myself so I'll have to pay for install.

As for price its about the same on Amazon currently.

 

Hell yeah, just go through Amazon than. Ive done everything on my truck except coil spring swaps (can be dangerous without proper tools) and alignments. Find a local auto shop and have them swap the coils over and tell them what clip setting you want. Expect to pay between $40-$60 for coil swap
All said and done and factoring in alignment cost, you’ll still only be right around that $500 range. You’ll be very happy with the 5100 setup, I enjoy mine, I run them on my tacoma

 

Thanks for the advice!