Oil Filter Housing Cap ?

I’m looking to change my oil on this new to me Tundra
I’m buying the proper wrench for the job.
Now do I need the oil Filter Housing Cap at all?
Thank you

 

I would replace the plastic one with a factory aluminum.

 

I guess I need to look to see if mine already replaced.
Is it easily spotted?
Thank you

 

yes shiny metal versus black plastic. I a m glad that I had a replacement the first time I did mine. the dealership put it on the with 120+ lbs of torque. I had a cheap cast filter wrench that broke. When one made of solid steel it took a 2' cheater bar and my neighbor holding my legs to get it off. Dealer offered to replace the plastic one I destroyed but I had not use for it.

 

Aluminum on left, plastic on right. The threaded end will be pointed upward, vertically mounted. Typically hidden by front skid plate which has to be removed.

 

120 lb of torque?
That’s insane.
What’s the proper torque?

 

Is the factory aluminum (okay, don’t laugh but...) a dealer parts department item? I want to ditch the OEM skid and also replace the plastic part with the aluminum but didn’t see the aluminum oil filter cap on Amazon...

 

It’s from a Venza. You just have to switch over the perforated tube from your original to the new aluminum.

 

What 15Wwhtrd said.

What I ordered and used.


Genuine Toyota 15620-31060 Oil Filter Cap Assembly
Sold by: JP-Genuine
$21.38

 

These are on eBay for about $18.00 with free shipping. You have to take the perforated filter holder from the plastic one, and swap it to the metal one. Also the drain cover has to be swapped over.

 

Oil filter housing: 18 ft-lb
Oil filter housing drain plug: 9 ft-lb
Oil pan drain plug: 30 ft-lb

 

@JohnLakeman ,
@JoshuaA ,
For the filter, is the specified torque for the plastic since the OEM housing is plastic?
Would it be different for the metal housing?

 

Plastic or aluminum, oil filter housing torque value only "needs" to be 18 ft-lb to keep it secure, not to develop the full strength of the housing material. Spin-on filters used by other OEM should only be hand-tight plus a quarter turn to compress the housing gasket and keep it secure. Now, with the educational system being what it is, a typical OEM torque specification for a spin-on filter is 18 ft-lb.

Torque value of 18 ft-lb is typical for any OEM aluminum oil pan drain plug or oil filter housing. Example: C6 Corvette LS3 cast aluminum oil pan with steel drain plug, GM specified torque 18 ft-lbf. That's probably more than it needs to be, but how are they going to tell a guy in technical school to "just snug it up by hand with a 8" end wrench plus a quarter grunt"? Idiots are going to use an impact wrench anyway.

Don't be misled by the torque value of 30 ft-lb on the oil drain plug. That is for a steel drain plug in a steel drain pan. That's probably also more than needed, but that's what mother Toyota specified.

 

I’m using Toyota OEM filters and rings so I’m assuming the ring gasket should be the same compression.

 

If you have the housing o-ring properly positioned, the o-ring does not seal against a face inside the housing recess. The compression of the o-ring seal in this case is unaffected by the torque value. The o-ring seals on the BORE of the filter housing recess much like a hydraulic cylinder piston does.

The housing has what appears to be a big sloppy loose o-ring groove, (and that's where) the o-ring should be positioned(, not on the step face at the end of the housing). Toyota filters have an illustration on the outside of the filter box showing exactly how to mount the o-ring, and a warning about getting it positioned incorrectly.

Edit: Post corrected for future readers. Should not go by my memory.

 

do the metal ones not include the tube?

 

It does, but it is too short to support the Tundra filter element.

 

Yes, but it will be too short for our filter. The tube from the plastic housing needs to be transferred to the Aluminium housing.

 

^^^ what they said

 

When I did mine I lightly pushed it to a tilt and with a little more pressure in snapped out without any damage at all and reinstalled it the same way.

 

Thanks, never noticed, however I do have the O-ring on per the box illustration, I’m OCD like that.

 

Funny mine were the exact same length.

 

So you didn't have to bend the little tips or flaps to get it out?

 

I had to bend the tabs with a screw driver just a bit to remove. Then rebend when in Al. housing.

 

When getting ready to transfer the tube/spine from the OEM plastic to the Toyota aluminum filter cap it's a good idea to a have full fresh can of brake cleaner to douche everything. Cuzzzzzzzzzzzz itz gonnaz beez uz oileez mezz.

 

So what is the advantage of having the aluminum housing instead of the original Toyota plastic one?

 

Eliminating the risk of breaking the plastic one or the removal specialty tool. Especially when you have oil service done at the dealership and they put the cap back on with a locomotive air gun and 300 pounds of air.

Aluminum = strong
Plastic = weak

 

definitely stronger, never had issue with plastic on tundra or volvo that had plastic one. the AL. will be more durable gor sure. a few on here reporting breaking tabs on plastic one, probably over tightened.

 

What is the part # for genuine Toyota oil filter housing wrench please?
Thank you