What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Thanks but 549 starting price.vs 400 is a no brainer.

 

Depends on your brain...no painting, no modification and bolt-on and perfect fit vs painting, probably cutting, welding new legs and the welding them on and they are still too short...the $549 seems like the no-brainer option to me...different strokes for different folks...

 

An extra $150 for a product designed for your vehicle, that wont require modification to fit properly and is the proper length...that’s a no brainer, imo.

 

Tried option 2 on the filter (fail). Decided option 3 is not something I want to do. Throwing in the towel on this one. Sometimes trying too hard is not worth it.

Ordered a new windshield for mobile install (by others) tomorrow. This one has 17 years of sandblasting pits on it. Unsafe when driving into the sun angles, as the pits create an opaque effect.

 

Chris, what's your honest opinion on Stubbs sliders? They are the cheapest option that I've seen. I know you linked them a while back.

 

I’ve heard great things. If I went weld-on they would be my go too, hands down. Richard is a very nice guy and a great welder but I wanted to go bolt-on for a few reasons.

 

Except I can phically see if it's gunna work or not before I buy it. So it's not a big deal and I literally have nothing but time when I'm off work because i work nights. So my days off are practically a full 24hrs of being awake if I want to socialize with the rest of the world.

 

Even if it's gotta be modified, that just gives me an excuse to drop by and see my friend Nathan at the Trail Toys shop and admire the Toyota collection they have going. I like to drive my truck and get out of the house and see my people on my days off

 

Finally got around to dropping this rusted out exhaust system that was welded to be one giant PITA. Luckily the muffler was so rusted out, I was able to fold it like a taco to get it out without making any cuts. Replaced with regular old Walker parts I ordered on Amazon, but I'm just happy not to hear that drone on the way to and from work every day.

 

Do you know who built that exhaust system?

 

Jack L. Egge and Sons.

 

Satan?

 

Got the Katanas installed today. Incredibly easy, straightforward install. I'd say roughly 2x as bright as stock, if not 3. True test will be tonight driving around to see if anyone flashes me, I'm cautiously optimistic because the cut off is fairly clean but we shall see. If I get flashed I'll try adjusting, then resign myself to crappy stock output. Definitely will be getting these for the wife's 4Runner though, they should work extremely well in her projectors.



Edit: Total success, best $50 mod anyone could do. Had to adjust the driver's side down a bit but that was mostly because I hadn't adjusted anything since putting on the Bilsteins and getting a 1.5" lift up front I think. To say night and day difference from the crap halogens is a bad pun, but completely true. Still need to adjust the pass side down (gonna have to buy a longer screw driver, that sucker is deep) but they're definitely staying.

 

Do you have a link to the lights? Looking at upgrading to LEDs myself later this year.

 

Can you share your reasons for bolt-on? I love that the SDHQ on my 3rd gen bolt from the side of the frame, so sliding on rocks won't sheer 'em off.

And which did you end up getting (my 1st gen is an AC so Victory is not an option).

I'd also appreciate a link if you can find one. Thanks for the edit to add your review after dark!

 

KATANA H4 9003 LED Headlight Bulbs - CREE Chips w/Adjustable Beam - 12000Lm 6500K Extremely Bright Conversion Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JM421VC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-eVMCbN2PYRDM

Here you guys go!

 

I want everything on the truck to be removable, just in case.

I got the intro pricing from Victory. Too good to pass up. I like how much room there is for a step. Definitely helps with the future plans.

I’m sure Bruce could fab up a set while he has it. Any update btw?

 

Yeah, it's coming along. We lost a couple of weeks to rain, visiting relatives, and military reserve obligations, but good progress this last weekend (new axles and custom welded add-on metal to beef up the beefed-up TC spindle gussets; thanks, Jimmy, for letting us learn from your experience). So the fronts are coming together.

I think (hope) we'll call in some buddies to help us lift off the bed this weekend to get started on the rear (and to put Bruce's bed back on his truck). But the MCM rear cantilever set-up is a whole 'nother thing, so Bruce is anticipating several days for that.

Plus, Bruce's truck is torn apart, getting new exhaust (and the bed off, battery cage out, etc.), so there's a LOT still to do on both trucks. So while Bruce can do anything, I think, time is becoming the limiting factour. He's probably gonna fab a pre-runner type front bumper for basic protection, but rock sliders may be a side purchase item. I'm pretty sure I'll go with Stubbs because of value for cost, plus last I checked, he had 'em in stock. But I've been putting it off because money. But it's starting to feel like clinch time. Definitely don't want to be out pushing new edges in an unfamiliar high-performance truck, and break it over something I failed to spend $400 to protect. So... probably Stubbs if I can get them in time.

Sorry that was such a long response. All I think about these days- LOL. The Hulk and T2S.

 

hmm bolt on sliders would interest me for my truck... when shes all fixed up i'll probably hunt down someone who makes bolt ons for the reg cabs.. im not one to weld on a rust free frame (out of fear or causing rust issues later on)

 

If you have to weld and paint them. Here's weld together kit for the 1st Gen AC $320.
https://www.hotmetalfab.com/new-products/gen1-maxx-protection-diy-rock-sliders

 

So upon further research the taco DCLB sliders will be too long for my truck. So I think in just finna stick with my original plan and go with Brute Force Fab.

 

Pre-prep done before window installer arrived. Went ahead and recaulked the cowl clips with second bead. Greased up the wiper assy arms and hinge points, too. Installer is stoked on the pre-prep and offered to take the old glass disposal fee off bill. Saved $10!

 

Thanks for sharing this link. I've never messed with LED bulbs and I know almost nothing. What exactly is involved with the installation? What's the reason for the fan if LED's already run cooler?

 

I’m not 100% sure on this, but I’ve always been told that LEDs dissipate what heat they do make directly backwards unlike Halogens and that they are more vulnerable to heat in general. So kind of a double edged sword in that they do run cooler, but they have to or they’d burn up immediately.

Not much involved at all, pull the old bulbs, place the new adapter ring into the existing light socket, shove the LED up to the baseplate into your stock dust cover, plug in the driver then zip tie it somewhere secure under the hood and you’re done. The bulbs twist to adjust the pattern after they’re installed, and as far as I can tell there is only one position they can be in correctly so make sure you twist them around while viewing the pattern on a wall or garage door. The only tricky part, is that on the driver plug in to the bulb, there are 2 small arrows that must be aligned. If they’re not aligned, you won’t get anything. I’ll try to get a picture of that today and post it up.

 

Guy was done in less than an hour. Did a good clean job. Won’t drive it today so the caulking and glass set properly. Guy showed me how the door rubber trim goes back on and I’ll put that back off to clean behind it later when the XM antenna goes back on.

 

I must have missed a post. You had to get a new windshield?

 

Post #5381

 

Nice. My windshield is insanely scratched as well. Drives me nuts. Did you use Safelite? What did that run you? Was there an premium import fee to the island?

 

Normally $279, but triple with Island Fees.

 

Safelite did mine last summer for $280ish also.