My Front Blinkers Anger Me

Installed the JDM ASTAR's today and no hyper flash. Nice and bright. Problem solved
Now, let's see how long they last

 

Installed the JDM ASTAR's today and I have Hyper Flash. This is on a 17 with 19 Pro LED HL's and iHacker harness.

 

I saw a new TRD Pro turning right in front of me the other day at an intersection and after reading this thread paid attention to his turn signals. They were definitely weak.

I've stopped in front of a lot of store mirrors lately looking at mine but mine seem really bright. However, I have a '16 with the '18 LED headlights. I kept my '16 turn signal bulbs when adding the new lights. My guess is the '16 setup is different than the '18's as mine don't seem weak.

 

I completely agree Jeremy ... it seems like the newer models with the DRL strip above and below (18' - 19') have weak turn signal lights. My incandescent bulb on my 16' is pretty bright!!! ... but then it is also used as a DRL.

 

Installed JDM Astar and I have hyperflash on my 16 with stock fronts, reason could be because I have siriusLED bulbs for my rear blinkers - siriusLEDs supposed to have resistors built in.

 

Does anyone have documented steps and pics how you installed resistors on the rear housing? Thanks

 

I just installed them in the front on my 13' Avalon (TAH). Hyperflash… I ordered some LEDs for the rear to see if they still hyperflash. Is so, I will install the 6 ohm resistors I also purchased. lol

 

Installed the Lasfits with NO hyper flash on an 18 SR5.

 

So it appears some with ‘18 SR5 had no issue, and a few did..? I have ‘18 SR5 with halogen headlight, single LED DRL (the strip on bottom edge). I’m about to swap out with 2019 TRD pro headlights + iHacker harness.

Has anyone done this and ran into the hyper flashing issue?

 

To those that installed the V6 Tritons, did any of you use the rubber spacers that came in the kit for a better seal? Also any use for the gel? Mine didn’t come with any instructions what so ever. Sure it should be plug and play just want to me sure I’m not missing something here that may bite me in the butt later.

 

The gel is supposed to be water repellent. I used it and the rubber spacers, spacer to get a good seal and limit vibe. Gel to seal up the connector along with the heat shrink.

 

Ok,

so anyone want to sum up how I can replace my brake lights and all 4 blinkers without hyperflash and without spending an arm and a leg if possible?

 

Well, Well, ..this afternoon/evening a guy in his new little mercedes (at eye level) was waiting a block away for me to pass on by... I definitely had my turn signal on, signaling I was turning in to where he was leaving.

As I get closer, I see him mouthing, raising his hands , shaking his head.

I’m thinking, “dude, it’s on” ... I think he saw it last moment, and then I remembered reading this thread. Gassing up, I turned on the blinker, went up front -and it is hard to see in the daylight.

 

Pretty sure hyperflash only occurs when you replace turn signal incandescent bulbs with LEDs. The LEDs have much less resistance than the stock incandescent bulbs, and when you install them, the flasher thinks the lower resistance indicates a burned out turn signal bulb.

If you use LEDs for brighter turn signals, then you may have to replace the lost resistance with a resistor. If you're using LEDs only in front, then 6 ohm at each front corner MAY be necessary (sometimes not necessary depending on the LED). If you're using LEDs front and rear, you can KISS by using only 3 ohm each side behind tail lights.

Resistance is counter intuitive by not being additive. Something about adding the reciprocals or something like that, but understanding the electric theory is not important here...it works, others have said so.

 

Put the Amber JDM astars in the front of my 18 about 4 months ago. Work perfect, no hyperflash in the 18+ w stock led headlights. Also have the red ones for the brake lights. Have 921 bulbs for the rear but was too lazy to do the resistor thing, plus the LEDs didn't look that much brighter than the stock halogen bulbs

 

Thanks @davescarp. That is excellent information on both topics, hyperflash and brightness. If you added the 921 LEDs in the rear, you probably would need the resistors.

Those LEDs are exactly what I was planning to try based on my evaluation and referrals here (maybe yours). But, your input regarding brightness being about the same is not encouraging. In fact, your observation seems to call the JDM astar rating of 1260 lumens into question. The stock 2018+ 7444NA incandescent signal bulb is only rated at 265 lumens (high level filament), 21 lumens (low level filament). The LEDs should be nearly 5X brighter than the stock bulbs.

Not sure what's up with these lumen ratings, but I'll see when I finally get to try them.

 

In the front the JDM astars were a huge improvement, and noticable for the brake lights too. I bought red 921s from super bright LEDs for the rear blinkers and 1) they absolutely hyperflash, 2) we're brighter than stock but not enough to motivate me to add resistors. In fact that's the only light in my truck that I didn't update to leds

 

Did you do the amber DRL delete, or did you keep them? Motive for question: To assess what temperature your housings are being subjected to with continuous operation of amber LED DRL if you have them. (I think the JDM Astars have two power levels just like the stock bulb, but they don't specify low level lumens, only the high level 1260 lumens.)

You don't happen to have an infrared thermometer gun do you? Would really like to see some housing temp readings near the Astars after 30 minutes to an hour of DRL operation.

 

I ordered the JDM ASTAR fronts -

$20 JDM ASTAR Extremely Bright PX Chips 7440 7441 7443 7444 Amber Yellow Turn Signal LED Bulbs

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PHVUWR8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_n3JLCbNYRC6V6

And these ANTLINEs for the rear brake lights -

$19 ANTLINE Extremely Bright 3157 3156 3156A 3057 4057 4157 3057LL 3457 3157K 21-SMD 1260 Lumens LED Bulb Replacement Brilliant Red for Car Brake Tail Turn Signal Blinker Lights Bulbs (Pack of 4)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MYX6Z2N/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_14JLCb1PK0DZH

By what I’ve read I shouldn’t need resistors. I’m still working on finding a suitable rear blinker replacement bulb, and I’ll probablY need resistors for that but we’ll see. Resistors make me nervous for some reason...? Probably because I don’t know what TF I’m doing.

I’ll report back on Monday when I get these thinks installed with before and afters.

 

Your fronts are exactly what I ordered. I should have clarified for @davescarp...JDM astar makes many 7443/7444 base LEDs.

I ordered these for the 921s for the rear: https://www.amazon.com/Nakobo-Backu...YLXX&qid=1553351199&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmrnull
I would prefer the 921 base on the LED I ordered for the front, but JDM astar doesn't offer it. These are not ideal, but the best I could find in 921 with a metal casing to absorb the heat and a projector lens.

 

So you ordered those for the blinker spot right? Because I think the top (blinker) bulb is the only 921. I had about 14 tabs open on my internet last night freaking out about the damn number codes...

Does 921 fit all these exterior lights on the Tundra?

 

No, not at all. Only rear signal, and high mount stop and cargo. Good thing too, I wouldn't want to use these cheapazz replacement LEDs anywhere that didn't need a lot of lumens/high visibility. In fact, not sure I will use them if they're too hot. Conversion to LEDs is not a mod thing for me...it's all about visibility and safety. I will use the stock incandescents anywhere they will work for me.

 

Keep in mind that service life in the rear housing is irrelevant...the rear housings are easy to remove. If one of these cheap LEDs fails in a month, you can replace it , or try another brand, or replace with the stock bulb easily. On the front housings, not so much...I wanted to see the manufacturer claiming 20K-30K hours.

I examined the negative reviews pretty closely to see how many "failed in a month" reports there were, and how many one star reviews. As I recall, the Nakobo were ultra cheap but got great reviews. But...you know how that goes...YMMV.

 

I have 2018 SR5 as well, Amazon says the 7443 Amber is not going to fit. Is Amazon site just being dumb? I'll buy these. I just wanna make sure it's the right ones.

 

Those JDM Astars are exactly what I ordered for my front turns and they work perfectly without adding resistors. And they are plenty bright.

Still going strong, although I may order a second set just in case one goes bad.

I remember seeing that Amazon says they are incompatible. They work fine.

 

I don't always trust the Amazon compatibility check. In the case of LEDs, it should always say an LED doesn't fit because the trucks didn't come with LEDs.

I suspect that the Amazon software is looking for a 7444NA bulb to be right for your 2018 truck, and it's finding that you ordered a 7443 base LED. The 7444NA incandescent bulb, which is two function bulb (DRL/Turn signal) is what my 2018+ headlights have pre-installed. The 7443 base and the 7444 base are both two element bulbs and they are interchangeable. There may be a same difference in the incandescent spec, but for the LEDs I doubt that it matters. The 7440 base is not an exact replacement since it is a single element bulb, but some LED manufacuturers lump it in with the 7443 and 7444. The 7440 base LED will work, but it will always be at the same brightness. The others may be too, I dunno.

 

I installed Lasfits LED bulbs for the turn signals that I bought from @darkknight2014 and no hyper-flashing. They worked perfectly! Much better than OEM bulbs.

By the way, I have a 2018 with OEM LED headlights

 

JDM ASTARs work well.

https://youtu.be/t7fzYSOuQzM

 

When I have my headlights on the drl goes to white. But when I drive and have just drl on they are amber. How do I make it white with just drl on. It already turns amber when I use blinker.

 

So you want it white all the time except for when you turn your blinker on?