Nitro 5.29's Installed

Agreed. Once a guy goes up to 35 or 37” if mileage is an issue

 

I’m in the camp of trying to make anything better, but overall I’m a performance guy. I def hear what you’re saying about MPG, and absolutely if MPG was a major factor I’d never buy a Tundra lol.

I’m looking towards DAP and maybe louder exhaust. I’m TRD side exhaust equipped now, sounds good but I’d like a little more volume maybe.

 

Better get in on the @dirtydeeds group buy! He has a trd replacement muffler setup

 

I saw that! Tax season took my play wallet for a bit though, gonna have to either save for another or just eat that price later.

 

Either way give a call. I’ve helped guys since 2003 to set up these tundras. With literally thousands of tundra builds I freely share info and am glad to help.

Keith 760-877-4234

 

+1 on this, Keith is super helpful!

 

I can’t speak to the 5.29’s but just did 4.88’s with 600 miles on right now. Also did a @dirtydeeds exhaust during the break in, so my computer doesn’t know what’s going on.
I have Nitto Ridge Grapplers in 275/65-20, so theoretical baloney 34.5 diameter, I think they really stretch the truth here.
With 4.30 my speedo was off about 3.5 mph from factory size, now it’s only 2mph off.
If you don’t have gps you can do the math by driving 60 and starting a stopwatch, figuring out a percentage difference from a mile a minute driving past country roads every mile or mile markers. Then you can apply that percentage to your odometer and your gas mileage reading.
I would wager tundra owners pay more attention to their mileage readings because our tank gauge is so far off if we don’t want to stop to fill every half tank we have to reset every time.

 

In my younger days, I constantly stressed over hand calculating my gas mileage. I didn't do it for any real purpose like you are here, I was just anally retentive.

Then I realized that measurement errors in the gallons pumped were potentially large and varied depending on the air trapped in the top of the tank, and the calibration of the auto shut-off on the pump nozzle. In those days, you could top off (don't want to do that anymore); you could just keep pulling the lever until it was running out. The longer you run the calculations, of course, the more accurate the average becomes as the errors wash out, i.e. total cumulative gallons/total miles driven.

To eliminate, no, reduce those potential errors in a single tank calculation, I would always use the same pump and approach from the same direction...that would eliminate any variance in calibration of the shut-off, and the same attitude of the vehicle would hopefully maintain same trapped volume. When on-board calculation became standard on the dash, I figured it was just an approximation before, the dash approximation is probably nearly as good and suited my purpose...it's gives me a general idea plus can reveal any real change.

 

I was another that jumped on one of the set Darren had. I have not notice real gains on MPG but torque and response it is a yes. For reference, I have put on 900 miles since the install.

 

any regrets? ever think "wish i had done 4.88"? Any issues with high rpms at high speeds (90ish) on interstate? obviously driving this icecream truck at 90 i am not too worried about mpg's

 

Just got back from T2S, frickin' AWESOME. Thanks you SO much @KevinK . There was a race on Friday and my results make me think I made the right choice.

 

I'm running 5.29. I set cruise at 80mph on highway. On flat highway, rpm is about 2300. And on 5-6% uphill grade, rpm is about 4000 max to maintain 80mph.

 

Mine arrive tomorrow so we shall see how it works, went 5.29’s on 37’s

 

I’ll be interested in your usage results probably more than anyone. Knowing how similarly we wheel, you’ll be the first to really put the 5.29 through their paces in high torque/high bind situations. They really angled the shit out of the pinion teeth to get good engagement on the ring, but then how well will that work in reverse? I’ve been one of the long time naysayers about 5.29 instead of 4.88 but if they work for you...

 

My corrected MPG with 37X12R20 with 4.30 stock gear is 12.81 with data collected over six months (22 fill ups). This is about 50% highway and 50% surface street.
Now my corrected MPG with same setup but with 5.29 gear is 13.06, data collected after 4 fill ups. Again, this is about 50% highway and 50% surface street.

 

Sounds about right. How are you calculating distance traveled? I’m trying to remember if the odometer reads off the wheel sensor or the transmission.

 

I verified by multiple sources the odometer is also off along with speedo. I used gps, my other vehicles (my other car and friends car) and lastly I know the distance of my work, it matches when the truck was stock for two months but now it doesn’t since going with bigger tires to 34 and then currently 37. I have mpg data since new, lol. I actually have mpg data on all my vehicles I owned since 2001, me being super nerdy.

 

What about 4.88 on 305/50/20 its about same height as stock but 12" wide. Seems like i would run 2100rpm at 70mph. I have right now is 4.10 sport package.

 

Im getting 20mpg plus on highway with headwind thats with manual calculation.

 

4.88 with stock tires is insane.

C

 

Lol what will i gain, more acceleration because the engine is going into the power band quicker? i know im going to lose at least 2 mpg on highway but i can afford that bc im not lifted and i have intake/tune/exhaust.

 

Unless you plan to race the Tundra, it’s probably not a good idea to go 4.88 on stock diameter tires.
You’d need 18” wide slicks to keep traction on dry pavement.

 

What would be the downfall just curious..

 

Excessive engine wear is the first thing that comes to mind. Right now your engine spins x number of times every mile. If you gear down, but don’t tire up, your engine will now spin more tiles per mile. That will require sooner oil changes and put additional wear on the engine.

I suppose for me it’s less about what are the downfalls and more about what is the benefit. I can’t see a benefit to it on stock height tires. Again, unless you’re raving and slap some super fat slicks on it.

 

Well i run fully synthetic oil and change it every 5000 miles i will be running 300 to 400 more rpm which reduce transmission wear because its not lugging sometimes the engine does lug up a hill when 100 pounds of weight in the bed. I have right now is 4.10 i could go 4.30 which is stock or go up to 4.88 and gain acceleration i do have 12in wide tire which creates friction on the road so im not to sure. I understand engine wear but are 3rd gen tundra have oil intervals at every 10,000 miles but we all have the same engine...

 

MPG update on my recent SoCal trip.

I filled up at Costco in Tustin then went to Newport Beach to see the beach before going to the desert. From Newport Beach, CA to Chandler, AZ I got reading of 13.6 MPG (15.6 corrected MPG) following speed limit of 65mph, 70mph and 75mph. I zeroed the mpg as soon as I hit 55 freeway. I still had 1/4 tank reading when I arrived in Chandler. I was surprised by the result, granted it is all highway data.

 

Why you gotta post stuff like this? Now I’m over here shopping for stock size slicks to slap on with these 5.29’s...

 

Lol i feel you..