4WD 4HI seems to semi-lock up after driving, then slowing in parking lot

You dont have to defend it. I will. I snapped a CV shaft by using 4hi on dry pavement. Argument for not using 4hi on dry pavement successfull. The front diff needs to turn faster than the rear in 4wd. If it cant, something will give since the center diff is locked. I'm not saying you're wrong, but I am saying what will happen.

 

I'm not saying your wrong either...but what SHOULD happen is that a tire on the front or rear will break traction and skid. If the drivetrain isn't stronger than the tire grip then something was made wrong on the truck. Whats even the point of all that torque and 4WD in general if it can't apply full power to the wheels without breaking something? All the trucks I've had experience with can break traction on dry pavement pretty easily without breaking a driveshaft just by stepping on the gas. Breaking traction because of torque bind is no different.

Now, of course things can and do break, and of course torque bind is not ideal, if nothing else its bad for your tires, but I don't accept the idea that if you do it your just going to do major damage to your truck. I don't think anyone would design a truck that way, and if they did, I think they would put a big fat warning in the owners manual about it rather than just saying it causes more noise and wear.

 

I bought a 4wd truck for the sticker emblem. Gives me cred.

 

One more tangent here for fun, but I was out on snowy trail in the hills today in 4 hi and getting some of that chatter/buck on steeper sections where I was pushing it (spinning a bit) to make headway. Is that to be expected, or unnecessary and hard on the driveline? I'm new to wheeling in this truck (1st gen). Didn't try 4 low...assume that's just a gear ratio change and doesn't affect power distribution.

 

Thats normal. Just back out of it a bit to let things settle down and keep the tires making contact.

 

Got it, will practice feathering it better! While bouncing around with fat snow boots on Felt pretty good out there even with the rather unagressive tires I went with as a compromise...don't do too much mucking around, but it's nice to know what it's capable of. Oh and I'll remember to stop and take some glamour shots next time.

 

This has got to be the funniest thred ive sean on here lmfao 4wd on dry pavement lol for what good reason would you do that ..... it probably wont break you truck right away depending on how hard you turn but still why whould you do that to yourself lol get a awd or a truck with automatic 4wd if your never going to turn it off or you will be buying tires and burning all your gas and killing your truck for no good reason its just common sense most people with 4wd know that but i would love to see how it works out so keep us posted

 

The problem is happening when I get off the road, and stop, say in a parking lot. There is still snow on the ground, or the ground is still wet on a rainy day. After I stop, and I start up again, it seems to "buck" or feels like it is sticking. Once I drive away, it stops doing it. It happens even if I'm not turning. The tires are pretty new, but I know the pressures are correct, and they are regular all season tires. They are not snow treads, or anything big or oversized.

Can a regular transmission shop check this, or do you need to go to a 4WD specialist?

 

That sounds like an issue with the transfer case...like once tension is not on the front driveline (as in moving in 4WD) then it partially disconnects (the bucking upon starting to move in 4wd again) until the tension "locks" the connection. I'd be looking at the transfer case first based on what you are saying...

 

This whole “argument” is what made me want to swap a Sequoia t-case into my truck. Don’t have to worry about it during winter just leave it in full time, always have the option to lock the center diff as well then. I still cannot figure out why Toyota would choose to use 2 different t-cases instead of one....and put the one with fewer features in the Tundra. From what I can tell the sequoia t-case is just as strong as the Tundras with the option of full time 4wd. It also is damn near bolt in, just needs rear shaft cut an inch shorter if I remember right. One of those projects I’ll get to if I ever find a good deal on a used one.

 

Money. You see what those soccer moms are paying for sequoias??? Toyota could never get that kind of margin with a tundra. Plus, soccer moms get sold on "awd" type vehicles.

 

True...they defiantly don’t give them away. Just seems like a stupid part to not put in the truck. Make the thing $500 more expensive and give me a more flexible 4wd system! That being said, my truck was unstoppable during winter this year and unless pavement was dry for a larg stretch or in a parking lot, it just got left in 4WD cause roads were ice and snow for a while

 

I tend to agree. One of the best trucks I had growing up in MT was a 74 Ramcharger with a NP203 transfer case (Full time). Gas mileage SUCKED ass, but that thing went anywhere and everywhere, when others had to get out and turn hubs, I just pulled the lever back to Hi-Loc and off I went. Dana Axles helped too.

Man, I miss that rig, was the rare frameless windows too....if I knew then what I know now......

 

Does this apply to 1st gen Tundra/Sequoias too?

 

I honestly don’t know. Not to my knowledge. Only the 2nd gen and before the 2014 swap to A different t-case. Found a thread about it on tundratalk from a guy up in Canada that has done several conversions.

 

Oh shit, you're in GFunk! ha. CMR or GFH?

 

Haha, neither. Moved here late 2017 from San Diego. Wife got an RN job at Benefis. Montana is pretty rad.