2018+ LED HEADLIGHTS PLUG N PLAY HARNESS FOR 2014-2021 MODELS [V 2.0]

Yep. Complete with all bulbs and leveling motor.

 

What he said VVVV

 

So I've read the whole thread and have a silly question. Every bulb in these headlights are LEDs, correct? DRL, hi/low beam, etc? If so, shouldn't these bulbs last a very long time compared to halogen? I'm just wanting to make sure I understand completely. When I hear LED - I think forever bright.

 

Not every bulb. The turn signals and side marker lights are not LED. You can replace them with LEDs, just be aware you may need resistors for the turn signals, it seems to be hit or miss, some need them some don't.

 

So I would only need resistors if I decide to change out turns and side markers to LED, right? Also, one should expect a very long life out of the LED high/low beams, correct? I guess I won't say they'd never have to be replaced but it should be a long time I'd hope.

 

You only need resistors for the blinkers, not the side markers. I highly recommend changing the bulbs before you install the new headlights, much easier. And the LEDs seem to overpower the halogen blinkers, making them hard to see at night.
The high and low beams theoretically should last the life of the truck, I sure hope so anyway or it's a very very expensive headlight replacement for a burnt bulb

 

@Pudge so you cant replace the LED bulb(s)?

 

The high and low beams are built into the housing. Can't be replaced. Maybe if you can separate the lens from the headlight body you xouk figure it out but the short answer is no, you can't just change the bulbs.

 

I ordered the harness with dimming option from iHacker and finally got around to installing it. The delivery was very quick and the communication was excellent. The harness itself was outstanding quality and the installation was pretty easy, but I took my time so it wasn't "quick". Bottom line is I struggled trying to decide which harness to buy and had an opportunity to save money with the "other" harness, but I'm glad I decided to go with the quality choice. You get what you pay for and if you are making the investment in these lights, spend the money on the best harness to go with them! Thank you iHacker for all your help and patience with my questions before ordering! I kept thinking I made a bad choice in spending so much money on these new lights, but now that they are installed, they are bad ass and I'll never doubt it again!

 

Ordered a pair of lights, so PM sent to purchase a harness...

 

Hello own a 2014 Tundra Platinum and have the 2018 headlights interested purchasing the harness for them. Was recently involved in a accident and the previous harness got damage. Thank you.

 

Thanks @iHacker for the plug n play harness..

 

Looks good, I like the grill lights

 

Pm sent!

 

Anyone wired up their corner (amber) parking light to blink as well? I believe this will help with the visibility issue with the stock bulbs.

Disconnect the negative wire from the corner parking lights and cap it off. Run a jumper wire from the pink turn signal wire to the negative terminal of the corner parking bulb. The blinking signal will interrupt the parking signal and the single filament bulb will blink. Wiring it to the negative terminal of the bulb will not affect the parking lights circuitry.

Perhap @iHacker can experiment with this and add this to his harness as an option. I did this on my past vehicles and motorcycles and never had any ill effects nor did i need to add a relay.

The dilemma on whether to dim or not to dim, I believe dimming should be mandatory for leveled or lifted trucks.

While on this subjects, I have a question on the "bright all the time" harness; are you wiring to both the hi and low setting or is it just connected to the high setting? Can both high and low be activated at the same time?

 

I'm not sure I understand the proposal, but if you are using @iHacker dimming harness, you have the option of keeping the amber DRL. My understanding is that if you simply tap into the gray wire rather than depinning or cutting, you retain the DRL/Park/Signal without any changes on 2014-2017, i.e. if the headlights are off, amber DRL will be bright along with the 2018+ LED DRL. Signaling will be bright (high level) amber DRL on/off.

When the 2018+ headlights are turned on, the amber DRL will dim (OEM) and @iHackers harness will dim the 2018+ LED DRL. When signaling with the headlights on, the dim park/DRL is replaced by the high-level, full brightness flashing amber DRL/signal which is dark between flashes (OEM). Once the signal cancels, dim park/DRL come back on (OEM).

I have my 2018+ headlights and dimming harness, but I'm still waiting on bits and pieces. My plan is to keep the amber DRL/park/signal by tapping into the gray wire rather than depinning it, and replacing the amber 7444NA DRL/park/signal bulbs with 7443 switchback LEDs. I believe that should give me highly visible turn signals in amber (700 lumens), and dimmed low level white DRL that remain on with the 2018+ LED DRL.

If the plan above doesn't work, my fallback is skip the switchbacks and go with 7443 amber LEDs (1260 lumens) in the DRL/park/signal. Those should be visible under ALL conditions.

 

Positive charge from the positive terminal does not flow to the negative terminal unless there's a short therefore you have a blown fuse and bulb. If you connect the positive from the parking light together with the positive from the turn signal, yes it will do what you described. Here, you are clipping the ground lead and leaving it off. Then use a wire to tap into the turn signal lead and jumper it over to the cut negative lead from the bulb socket, not the negative lead from the car.

BTW, the whole objective was to have the side marker do double duty while being a single filament. This trick is acient and is all over the web and YouTube. Search side marker turn signal mod. Find ones that do not require a relay.

 

I just wanted to know... On the bright all the time harness where you tap into the fuse box, does the tapped wire connect to both, the red and purple wire of the DRL (red high setting and purple low setting)? On top of that, will both settings activate at the same time if you send power to both wires? I believe it does but I just need a confirmation. The DRL adapter shown from the 1st page only shows one wire at the 4 position connector but on the dimming version, both wires are connected and both settings are receiving power in the hi mode.

I'm thinking it doesn't matter if you send power to both DRL wires using the full bright all the time adapter because the hi setting will over power the low and having the low on together with the high will not be that much of a difference to notice

 

I think the switch back will be over kill and trying to match the white output. If you insist on converting the bulbs to led, spend the money on the VLED trinton V6 otherwise all you're getting is the on and off effect because the stock bulb is already bright in my opinion. The dimming harness does not have issues with turn signal visibility like the full bright mode all the time with the headlights on. I'm leaning towards the dimming version as well and just sticking with the stock bulb. I will keep grey wire intact same as you. I like the fact that you can shut it completely off with the ebrake engaged.

 

Matching the white of the factory LEDs is not an issue I considered. I'll think about that more after I see how they look.

You are probably right about the 7444NA signal being bright enough with the LED DRL dimmed. That was my original expectation. Basically, I have three ordered priorities to be met with LED: (1) High visibility, (2) Crisp on/off of modern vehicles, (3) bulb life.

We have a left turn into our development off a busy state highway with hilly approaches from both directions, and no center turning lane. With following and approaching drivers talking/texting, and oncoming traffic at 70 mph, it gets "puckery" sometimes. We start signals about a mile in advance, and the responsible ones see us. LEDs must be 4+ Amzn stars with virtually no early failures. But, based on past experience with OEM Kioto bulbs, the 7444NA will probably outlast me, therefore no W5W LED for the side marker.

I am concerned about the heat LEDs may generate inside the housings. There are several clear plastic style ribs or louvers across the 2018+ park/signal reflector. The LEDs I plan to use will fit, but are maybe only 1/4" or less from those plastic ribs or louvers. If those clear plastic ribs turn brown, I'll hate myself after spending that much money for those housings.

The VLED v6 may be the bullet-proof performance option, but dealing with their machined universal base (adjust pins to fit?) with a single wire out, proprietary screw connector, Y-adapters to screw-in resistor?...It's just too much money to spend and too much crap behind my headlights IMO.

I have seen cases in the reviews where LEDs have generated so much heat, that the OEM socket is literally incinerated; the heavy finned base of the v6 clearly makes that a non-issue unless it frys the housing shell. I just want a simple 7443/4 base that will plug right into the OEM socket and the @iHacker harness plug cleanly right into that. That's what I call PnP. Soldering single 3 ohm resistors in the rear I can handle.

My plans and solutions tend to be fluid and subject to revision as I constantly evaluate the project with fresh input. Thanks for the thoughts.

 

How I look at it is, if there was an adequate and efficient LED for parking lights and turn signals, Toyota would have converted their bulbs when they updated their headlights, or they were thinking of the modders which I doubt. Lol. We're just not quite there yet I guess but Toyota has been way behind on lighting technology prior for their pre 2018 trucks as well. E.g. My 2006 Murano has led taillights and HID projector headlights. That was over a decade ago. Well at least Toyota went with the latest and greatest and went with LED instead of halogen projectors

 

VLED V6 are the best option but is pricey. Right now they are offering a winter discount. I don’t trust the cheap options for the same reasons you mentioned this LED bulbs produce too much heat if they don’t include a good heat dissipation shield might end frying the bulb holder or in the worst case melting the headlight housings or staining the clear lenses so keep that in mind and stay away from the Amazon/eBay dollar special .


I personally consider this 2 options but don’t forget to include the inline resistors when purchasing.

Morimoto X-VF

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/7443-morimoto-x-vf-led.html?preselect=52040,51312

Profile Peak

https://www.theretrofitsource.com/7443-profile-peak-led-bulbs.html



In a side note I still have the OEM incandescent bulbs included in the housings I have plans to change them in the future but I’m kind too lazy to take the front end one more time

 

Totally agree with you buddy, Toyota is a long way behind the competition in lightning and tech in all their vehicles including their Luxury division LEXUS (at least Lexus have better lightning options but...), the infotainment screen in Lexus vehicles is the same outdated user interface and software in our Tundras and everything else. I’m just feeling better when think that I’m driving around in a car equipped with a reliable and bulletproof engine/transmission that won’t be leaving me down in the middle of nowhere like the competition does

 

Well, there is that...at least they recognized that an entire technology generation had come and gone while they were still using incandescents. Maybe in another five years, we'll be able to scab some intelligent Toyota LED replacement bulbs for these housings. Oh, wait...this body is so old...these housings probably won't make it onto the next Gen in 2021. Guess we'll have to get iHacker to make us new harnesses with the right connectors.

I know, I know...You gave me your best ideas, and I was tempted away by cheap ho' thoughts. Knowing that was your reasoning for not using LEDs has sobered me up considerably.

True that, and that's why I was considering this now. At some point, I'm afraid those little plastic locking tabs that Yota uses at the bottom of the grille and other places will wear smooth off so many ins/outs.
I recognize good advice when I hear it. Thanks, guys. Now, I got to send all this stuff back.

 

Shout out to iHacker. Great service and a nice guy "to boot". Can't beat it! Don't think too hard. Get your harness from iHacker!

 

Pm re sent hahah

 

Another satisfied customer! Thanks @iHacker

 

Really nice harness, thanks iHacker!

 

Love it!

 

Thanks to man himself for contributing to my headlight swap. Your harness is top notch quality which made the modification easy. Ordered and shipped fast. Thank you

https://youtu.be/ijW5G3QL8gc