What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I'd rock with it. I love that color too

 

slammed it looks good... I know mine is stepside i just cant get over it lifted looks out of place? i guess.

 

I want to make a 2wd rcsb v8 in the future. Enjoy the lowered life for a little while until it goes LT.

 

So....

 

Just the truck I had in mind.

 

Probably one of the ugliest things I’ve seen in awhile. How could Toyota do that when everything else they have looks so good?!

Alas, I have a few questions I meant to ask for the seasoned Tundrans:

1. What do you guys use to make the black molding pieces return to black instead of the sun beaten off black color. Do you paint them or take a heat gun to it? I’ve heard of both but was wondering what you guys would recommend. My side step rails and some other pieces need refurbished.

2. My brakes suck. When I checked them they looked great. My tears I replaced even though they looked very good and the front pads and rotors look great too. The brakes have a sort of spongy feel but it’s like you really have to hit the brake to stop. I haven’t experienced this with any of my older tundras. I’ve read on here that you can adjust the brakes, do you think that could be the culprit or do you think that’s just how the tundra brakes? I have over 260k miles on mine, still going strong but would like to fix that issue.

Thanks in advance!!

 

The black trim on my tacoma I used duplicolor spray in bed liner. Textures different but it came out great

As for the brakes make sure the drums are adjusted out to where they’re just barely touching the drum. If they’re too far in you’ll get a spongy pad because there’s travel they go through before actually hitting the braking surface

 

I don't think I've seen one lifted in person. You could always swap beds

 

Engine flush done on my tundra. looks alright, no chunks or anything. so now to run mobil one for a day, then start on the tear down for cam seals/t-belt.. Thinking about powder coating my valve covers.. because why not, they'll be off

 

Understand. My thought was if extended sway bar links are needed for a lifted truck why not spend a bit more and find something with a dual purpose. Suspension Maxx extended links are $99 and for $30 more you can possibly get something that's adjustable, using better articulating joints, stronger and can be disconnected if you need that feature.

 

If you really want to spend some money see if you can make an a AntiRock work.

https://www.currieenterprises.com/universal-antirock-sway-bars

 

All cool kids on TW just remove the sway bar if they have upgraded coilovers and not just stock coils and 5100s... More flex bruh. That's why I moved my factory overload when I did my progressive add a leaf

 

Not sure about your brakes, but for the trim I used this last year and it works well. Touches up nicely, too. Flat Black. Lots of taping off. You can do the entire truck in a short day.

 

I did look at doing that once and about 99 percent of the beds needed so much work done to them I just said hell with it... Plus cost from lkq or local they where F@#$ crazy at prices on junk I would say.

 

I saw a step side the other day and it looked nice. Not as bad as everyone makes them to be. If I was looking to change things up (if I had a step side), I’d consider eliminating the step hole. The curves look nice, but the step throws off the mojo.

Per that lifted pic up there, any truck would look stupid with small wheels that high.

Kinda like (in a different way) the Cheby guy that I saw the other day jacked up real high with small thin (REALLY WIDE) tires. Almost forgot the big exhaust tip.

 

That would look good. Or what if you cut out part of the step and had an exhaust pipe coming out each side?

 

That step your talking about only has a 200 pound weight limit on it why I don't use it.

 

Gonna yank the backseat out and soundproof the cab behind there. Maybe pull the front seats out too and tighten some bolts on the chair assy. Passenger side has some looseness rattles that need addressing. Might as well vacuum while its all open. Beautiful weather today.

 

Since the Full Synthetic Switch, I noticed some oil seeping out just the larger hosed breather as well (front diff?). Mine were strapped up in the harness too.

 

The only reason this looks so stupid is due to the horrible wheel and tire pairing, as well as that ridiculous double side step(s). It's also lifted incredibly high. Way more than normal I think.

 

So you got out 3.5 quarts? I don't think there is any harm going full synthetic. Just do it a few times in a row if it concerns you with mixing fluids. I'm positive that anytime you take it to a shop they are likely going to mix something new in. They ship from the factory with Toyota fluid and the first drain+fill is likely going to be something different. I used full synthetic Valvoline last time and it shifts smooth. I'm going to do it again soon.

 

Unless I'm just missing it, it looks like he failed to list our trucks. He only has the 00-02 V6's listed. In your earlier picture it says the model transmission we have is 30-40LE. What do you make of that?

 

This is correct on the approx. 3.5 quarts. The transmission fluid was completely drained (total quarts?) back at 124k miles and then again at 152k miles and filled with ? by a pro shop.

I did not waste much time waiting to drain all the fluid out as its still fairly fresh with only 10k on it. As soon as it stopped pouring out, the plug went back in. I assume there are probably 7-8 quarts left in the system?

Drained 3.5 quarts measured approx. in that jug.

Called the last shop that did the drain work last time and he said they use non-syntheteic so thats why I went with non-syn again using Valvoline $14 a gallon!

My strategy is to drain and fill every 5-10 miles to keep it all fresh. Its easier than doing an oil change. Cheap too. No need for synthetic with these frequent interval changes. Shifts are very smooth.

Maybe I’ll do a pan drop in the future once I wrap my head around the transmission service techniques on the clutch/valve? body assy. This is my next challenge.

 

I believe we have the 340f. The 30-40LE placard is the pictured stamp. Not sure what it means. Why didn’t they stamp 340f? I did learn the 02’ transmission was made in Feb. of 02. The 29,491st made that year. The dreaded ‘planetary gear’ bomb model. I’m turning blue holding my breath.

Thanks for looking ahead as that saves time from signing up over there.

 

That is interesting. I think if we keep swapping out the fluid like we are, we are doing more than 99% of Tundra owners(excluding this forum). I think ours should last a long time but anything is possible.

In regards to that forum. I heard it was "dead" and never understood if this one was just a spin-off of that one or what the connection was.

 

Hahaha, I may try to be a cool guy one day, but I gotta use my truck to haul heavy loads so that flexy flex isn't the highest priority. What add a leaf are you running? I went with wheelers 3 pack and enjoy the ride and higher load capacity, I kept the overload.

 

The ScanGauge II I have definitely reads ATF temp. I can't remember where I found the code for it, but a google search and trying a few different ones did the trick. The code is definitely out there.

 

Cool I guess I'll keep searching.

 

Yeah wheelers 3.leaf AAL is what I run as well. It's definitely the best bang for your buck. I had it on my 99 taco, but I had the 1mm thicker HD version they discontinued. Then I had the regular one on my 03 Taco and now on my 06 Tundra. I think it's funny people pay more for basically the same product from toytec or icon when wheelers sells it for so cheap and includes longer ubolts.

 

Some ones to try...

https://www.scangauge.com/support/x-gauge-commands/toyota-lexus-scion/