I went stupid...2016 JBL sound upgrade en route

I think I have read almost every post regarding the upgrade of a JBL stereo and I have built about 50 different systems in my head. From Taco Tunes to tech12volts and dsp's and to walmart and everything in between. I am an electrician by trade so wires are running through my DNA. What puzzled me was the amp and why Toyota and JBL would do this to us especially when we drop such a big chunk of change on this bad ass truck. However, if they are going to skimp I would rather it be on the stereo than anything else...I guess... So at this point you ask, how did you go stupid? And I suppose you are wondering, why should I care that you gone stupid. Before I get into that here is my situation and yes, it's my first post! Hooray.. I am stationed in England and my beautiful baby is stuck on jack stands in my fathers 30X50 work shop in Coffeyville Ks. I will be headed to Alabama in about a week for training and following that on 8 March I will head to his house where I will rip the entire interior out of my Tundra and begin a total musical makeover. When I was younger, much younger, I wanted as much bass as my head could handle and it was never enough. Now I enjoy the mids and highs with a little of bass to round it out. Enough of the prolonged intro, here is my built list.
Tundra parts order

Heat gun

Heat shrink tubing

Crimping tool

Crimp kit

T-tap crimp kit (lighting upgrade if my dads solder gun doesn't work)

iPhone magnetic holder (because I needed one )

18 gauge roll of electrical wire foot (for new lights)

Red gel filter for rear fog light (need it to make her street legal in England)

Wire strippers

LED 6” turn signals (another England requirement)

Double sided 3M mounting tape

Adhesive spray and carpet (for the board that I will mount the amps on in the back)

Stinger 2 Channel 17’ RCA

NVX Big 3 Amp wiring kit (just to protect the overall system, less resistance makes power happy)

Rockford 10 Farad digital capacitor (really to protect my alternator, prevent possible power draw when I get really crank happy )

Infinity 6.5 components x2 (always wanted them, I will let you know...)

Stinger 4 gauge amp kit

Stinger 4 channel 17’ RCAs

Stinger T-block x2

Auto trim removal tool

Taco tunes amp rack

Taco tunes sound deadening (wanted to give it a try)

Taco tunes front and rear speaker adapter kits

8’ of black 4 gauge wire (extra just in case)

8’ of red 4 gauge wire (same)

Infinity 3.5” speakers (center dash, couldn't help myself, I mean, I went stupid‍♂️)

120’ 12 gauge wire (mids/subs)

80’ 14 gauge wire (tweeters)

30’ 16 gauge wire f/dash tweeters (was an after thought to add alpines, they will take a little more power)

Rockford DSR-1 (get rid of the factory amp)

iDatalink TO3 wiring harness (must have, keep it simple and neat)

Rockford P300x2 (front door 6.5s)

Rockford P400x4 (rear door 6.5s and dash speakers)

Rockford P500x1 (sub)

JL Audio 8” dual sub w/box (enough but not too much; plus space is a factor as you know)

Alpine dash tweeters (because I went stupid)

Velcro zip ties blue (um, because my truck is blue)

100 pack screws

Plastic fastners

Daytime running lights

Speedo fix YellR (37s have my speedo way off, $107, figured I would give it a shot)

Zip ties

Dynamat x 2 (couldn't help myself, see if it is better than Taco Tunes )

L brackets



Install remote start

Install alarm system

Buy MDF board and cut it to 52x24" for my amps to be mounted to behind the 8" sub box


Couple extra items on the list to do but you get the just. Since I have read so many questions about the DSP add on and removal of the amp, I am going to throw it in there for you guys first and see how it sounds (it will require some man made RCAs on the stock wire but that shouldn't be an issue). I will post an update with pictures of it sitting in the truck wired up. Also, I will take as many pictures as I can but to be honest, I only have a week to do it before I have to fly back to England and finalize the paperwork to ship it over. Plus visit my sick grandmother which will consume a couple of days.

More to follow but be patient, it won't start until 8 March....and the countdown begins!!!

To be cont'd........

 

Dang.. you got everything but the kitchen sink dude!!

 

Lawd have mercy

 

all those speakers......and only a single 8" sub? Why not throw two 10's behind the back seat and call er good. You can always turn down the amp.

 

Rock on! Can’t wait to see pictures as I’m about to start my own multi amp system.

 

Thank you Sir for your service.

 

I went with the JL custom built (2) 8" box from crutchfield. I will attach my schematic later but partially it was due to size (wanting to build a custom amp rack that will be hidden and secure behind the rear seat) and my wife giving me the stink eye because she was scared I would damage my 9 and 10 year olds hearing. However, people have reported that these two 8s are nothing to bat an eye at...

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13628LW3V3/JL-Audio-CP208LG-W3v3.html

Plus, I had JLs in the past and have always loved them...

 

Thank you zlaneb!

 

Just pony up the extra cash and get the stealth box with the 10's you'll thank me later.

 

You won’t regret doing it but you might have regretted not doing it! Gonna be awesome.

 

If you get time after this installation maybe you can find out why the factory head unit is under powered. Is it a mechanical disability or is in programming. The black helicopter keeps telling me to take mine apart but I'm not an electrician unless I've been drinking.

 

Maybe, I need the room above the box to mount my amps though...with this box I will have 12" above the box to utilize. Not exact but you get the point.

 

DSP will sit in stock amp location.

 

@Danimal86 I did build several packages with the stealth box, if I was younger, now 40, I probably would've.

 

@ZPMAN, I honestly believe it is the JBL DSP. It must be terribly detuned to prevent damaging the stock speakers. When I throw the Rockford DSR-1 in there I will let you know the difference. I will probably only be able to wire up the doors and the sub but that will give me a better idea if it is the head unit or the JBL DSP. More to follow.

 

Looks like a nice list. Might i suggest a fast charging qi charger under the arm rest instead of the phone magnet. I built my and my friends tundra much like Taco Tunes suggested. Came out pretty nice. Here are some pics of the process. Wish I had seen tech12volts stuff first. I would have tried to copy. Good luck. Looking forward to some of your pics.

 

I made amp racks in the floor and made a cover for them.

 

@phogallen i have no doubt that it sounds great! What speakers did you put in the doors?

Rock Chalk!!!

 

Shout out from a fellow Kansan...stay on it man, you will get satisfaction in the end!
G

 

@Danman34 that looks great, does the top bolt down? I hope that when I am done it will be hard to tell anything is in there. Like a ninja!

 

Appreciate it @gdog_Tundra!

 

No. But it’s 1/2” mdf, so it’s got some weight to it.

 

Gotcha, I am sure it does!

 

Nice choice, that will probably be my next venture down the road in a future build. It would be cool to compare the two with the same genre of music and see if there is any true difference. JL has never disappointed me, just thought I would give the infinity kappas a try this go.

 

Danman, That looks sweet bro. I went with infity on for mids and hights. REF 6530CX for back doors and the 6x9 version of that for the front door. I've since blown my front passenger side door so I just ordered the Infinity Kappa 90CSX. My subs are Rockford Fosgate Punch P3 P3SD412. They're pretty good but I think I'll replace this with Rockford Fosgate Power T1S2 - 12. Amps are T1000 for subs and T400 for my doors and dash. Taco Tunes cross over for easy plug and play form factory deck. Although I'm really interested in Tesla style head unit for tundra. My problem with that is I have the NSV Auto light bar. This comes with a ready face plate for the tundra and this gets in the way of the Tesla style head unit.

 

Thanks! I’m running two sundown SD-10s in a ported box, CDT components up front, hertz components in back, with an

$129 Audiocontrol lc7i 6-Channel Line Output Converter with AccuBASS

Audiocontrol lc7i for processing.