Tundra DRL/Blinker issue

Eliminate the resistor and see if you can get it to work with hyper flash. I don't know what the answer is, so at this point I would test different setups in an attempt to either confirm or eliminate items as potential sources of the problem.

I would also look at wiring the resistor into the other hot wire and testing that way as well.

 

@Backslider what year is your tundra?

 

2016 - but I still don't believe heat in the engine bay is causing your issue. You could easily test that by opening the hood and trying the signals without starting the engine, which I imagine you've already done.

 

I do not get hyper flash without the resistors. They don't hyper flash at all. They just stay as DRL's. Installed resistors and they only flash with headlights off. I'm leaning more towards what bandit is saying. It makes sense.

 

If you don't get hyper flash why are you installing resistors? You must get hyper flash without them...

 

What wires did you cut and tap into to install the resistor?

 

I tested the LED's just plug and play style to ensure they were correct. Flipped the turn signal to see the hyper flash for myself. No hyper flash occurred. I installed resistors and then I had the issue in which I am now experiencing

 

Why would you install resistors then? You know their only purpose is to correct hyper flash right?

 

When "testing" the LED, they didn't do anything when flipping the turn signal. No hyper flash, no flash at all. Incandescent bulbs work just find.

 

I think he's saying there was no flash at all without resistors - meaning they were just solid on.

With resistors he gets turn signals without the headlights on, but with headlights on he does not.

 

You can test if it's the resistor by installing the original bulb in one side and doubling the resistor on the other side. If the LED works you have proven you need to double the load.

 

Ok. I have no idea how op can literally be the only person to do what thousands of others have done and his truck is all fucked up now. He did something wrong...

 

purple

 

I hate to say it, but I agree with you.. Either that or he has poor quality LEDs.

 

I saw some wal mart LED's that you could push a button to test in the box the other day... Hopefully he didn't buy those...

 

Also what resistors are you using? Could be that the resistors suck. Do you have a decent meter? Test your resistors.

I'm the kind of person that loves solving problems.. I'm just trying to throw out ideas. I also like to test and come to a root cause before I start throwing parts at something. Shotguns are fun and all, but there is a time and a place..

I hope you keep posting here, I'm really curious now what's going on.

 

I'm telling you, I bought quality LED bulb, CK style and everything. Used a multi-meter to find the flasher power wire ( pink) and the ground (white/black). Soldered resistors in parallel. One side on the pink, the other side on the white/black.

 

I am a technician for Mercedes-Benz lol and I have a Toyota aftermarket upfit kicking my ass.

 

Yea man ill let you know what I find.

 

I believe that you know what you're doing - test the resistance of the resistor? Use the test I explained above where you double the resistors in parallel and see if it works properly.

 

And you don't know what links are....

 

What do you mean?

 

Yea I will try doubling up. Another question. Can you installed the bulb and resistor on one side and expect the bulb to still operate normally?

 

Without knowing the details needed to do the math I would venture that it will probably still work when using the resistor with the stock bulbs.

 

I'm sorry, I should have been more specific. For example. Let's say I removed the driver side incandenscent bulb from the vehicle. Install the LED and resistor and test. Do you think it might make a difference if I only installed one side with LED while the other side still has an incandescent bulb?

 

It would make a difference as to the overall draw on the circuit, but if the CANBUS system is causing the behavior you're seeing I'm unsure how what you're saying would affect it. Assuming we're on the right track and not putting the appropriate load on the system it may bring you above that threshold. I'm not really sure.

 

I'm going to guess that if the resistors are working properly they are not the problem.

a 50w, 6ohm resistor has a draw of 2.88a.

a 50w, 3ohm resistor has a draw of 4.08a.

The incandescent bulb should require 12v @ 2.1a and the LED bulb will require 12v @ 150mA.

You should only need the 3ohm resistors if you have LED turn signal / DRLs on all 4 corners.

I would definitely check the actual resistance of the resistors to see if it's where it should be before doing anything else.

I'm not an electrician by any means, so if someone else has some good input here please chime in.

 

No you are making sense, I will check the resistance value to ensure the correct amount. I'll mess around with it more tomorrow and get back with you

 

Also, the truck does not have CAN BUS pertaining to the light circuit. Just straight power and ground.

 

What?....