What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Got her loaded up and ready to
Go to work tomorrow and start figure out what is up with the suspension

 

Spent about an hour letting it idle and played some tunes while I sorted through all the tools, parts, and other crap that's accumulated in it since last Summer. Going to get the taxes done next week and as long as I don't owe it will be time for new tires and alignment. Can't wait to drive it again.

When I got back in my wife asked "was that you making the vroom vroom noises?" I admit it was.

 

basically just spray down the old bumps 30 mins ahead of time and grab a big set of channel locks and get to turning .
To install the superbumps you'll want to jack up the front end a little. I did it with the tires on. Take the superbump and put the Allen bolt in place, then shove a sheet of paper in to keep the Allen bolt from moving. Screw it in as much as you can. Remove the paper and get to turning the provided Allen wrench. Could have done it in about 30 mins (an hour counting the time you spray wd40 and wait). But I had to go to the auto shop at thetstart for the large channel locks and again the middle of it to buy a floor jack. So it took me a bit longer

 

But do you have stock coils?

 

Yes! Can't beat Aisin! It is a company started by Toyoda himself. All Toyota automatics are built by Aisin, they make the best locking hubs, and their coolant is designed for Toyotas. I use their coolant and also Zerex Asian Red.

 

Thanks for your confirmation, to help this guy out!

@FirstGenVol

 

Any chance you can post the part number on those injectors? i need to dig through my stash i might have some and if i do i'll be doing the upgrade when i do my timing belt...

 

Yep. The 4wd ‘Off Road Package’ coils. Still original.

 

Looks like Brady's plans to cheat his way to another Superbowl.

I'm following this project with great interest.

 

Not sure yet because the vacuum pack is still on the injectors, but I do know they are Denso. These are reman’d Denso bought from Keith @dirtydeeds and everyone has good things to say about his mufflers.

I was looking at cleaning my OEM injectors at an injection shop locally then stumbled around on his site and saw these 12 hole injectors and it states that the truck will perform more like ‘a modern vehicle’ with better ‘tip end’ and “mid range power’. I enjoy optimizing what ever I can put my hands on (hand model). The price seemed very fair compared to local cleaning service. No need to remove and run around town waiting 24 hours. I will be installing today so the final verdict is yet to drop.

Keith is very helpful and responsive over the phone and thus far extremely professional. He has these on his truck and says good things.

Now its up to me to execute the install. I’ll post up part# pictures if there are any numbers on the injector body. I do know they are 250cc.

 

Yep. Never EVER under estimate the power of the ‘Pretty Boy’.

 

Thanks. Is this to get the lower control arm downward?

 

Yup. The superbumps are much taller and need room to get in.

 

that's why. It's not recomereded to remove unless you have new coilovers .at least that's the rule of thumb on TW.

 

Yes. I posted a full walk thru a few posts back. Along with some tips

 

hmm 250cc i think i might have 8 of those laying around from some corollas... i'll measure the resistance on them..

 

Yeah boyz. The 12 hole injector upgrade was successful! Took about 5 hours total to do both sides (8 injectors). Everything went pretty smoothly and the difficulty level is not for the faint of heart. Key is taking your time. Hand Yoga is a must. Glad my years of model training were able to translate over to this job.

The what: Reman’d 12 hole injector upgrade Denso 250cc from @dirtydeeds
The why: Was wanting to clean my existing injectors and the cost to have a shop perform was about equal to buying these shipped to the house.
The how: Lots of planning and patience and mechanical fortitude.
The who: Semi-Retired Hand Model.
The where: My mind was in the S. Coast of St. Barts chillin’.
The truck: 2002 Tundra 4wd SR5 4 speed 285/75/r16 tires (E-rated LT Michelin Defenders 35 psi).

The result after driving about 25 miles (15 hwy and 10 city). Pretty impressive. The truck seems to hold first gear longer and second gear longer. Third gear/OD shift points is about what it was before BUT down shifts quickly when stomping the gas at highway speeds. In other words, when in OD and you stomp to pass at highway speeds it downshifts quickly back into 3rd to give that power faster when before there was a slight delay in that downshift.

The power/torque seems better in the lower gears especially from 2nd to third range. The throttle response is the same as before from dead stop to stepping on it, BUT once the foot is on the gas and you are moving the pedal is definitely better than before from the high end of first all the way through 3rd gears. Still can’t burn rubber, but almost ‘feels’ like it.

The biggest change is the gear shift points. The gears hold longer and that feels like more power. With the bigger tires making things sluggish due to ratios being off, I’d say this feels like a poor mans gear upgrade by 10% if this makes sense. Not a substitute for a gear upgrade, but it for sure feels like the gears/shift points are better. I can only imagine this injector upgrade with new gears!

Won’t have a chance until next week to do a report on towing performance.

Time will tell how well the injectors hold up and MPG’s perform. Glad I did this as the upper rubber bushings on the old were near toast. Overall, worth the $340 cost of injectors and 5 hours of work. Not an earth shattering upgrade, but well worth it.

 

Got a quote from 4wheel shop place to do a set of leaf springs on the truck. Mat/Labor $2700! Hahahaha

They quoted OEM Toyota springs at $1100 each and I can get them for half that from Toyotaparts .commm

SDSprings has OEM sizes (OE) for about $240 each. Will call them next week for total parts/bushings, etc. I remember talking with them last spring and they make them in China with an option to pay more (20%) for USA made.

Someone told me to check Alcan. How much BALLPARK will they charge me? I don't want to fill out their long form.

Looks like I might have to do suspension labor work to save money. Not fun to me.

 

@Professional Hand Model did you find any videos on this job or just stare at it until you figured out everything that has to be removed?

Since I have no hand modeling experience I'm not sure I would attempt it..

 

No videos on the 1st Gen Tundra that I could find. I did see some Jeep guys videos, but they aren’t apple to apples. Basically, stared at it. Got denied yesterday, but learned from the rejection. Came back today and kicked ass.

Thing that makes this job difficult for 1st Gens is the fuel rails so tight on the manifold with the engine lift hooks in the way. Very little space to work it. You have to pull the injectors off to get the rail assy out. Then, oil the orifices and injectors and practice fit it. Pull them out. Put the rail in place and then hand Yoga the new injectors in. The rail will only come out or be put back in without injectors on them. Thats the hard part. Was able to do it without pulling the manifold off.

 

I suggested the Alcans and I paid about $500 approx 10 years ago

 

Yours are custom for lift? I’m looking for stock OEM equivalent (no lift). Was just quoted out the door OEM $300 for both springs made in USA. How many shackles does one need? Two per leaf? So, four total?

SD doesn’t sell the bushings, but does sell the shackles. I’d have to buy the bushings separate.

Toyparts has complete pressed shackle kits with bushings, bolts, nuts for $90. This might be a no brainer. Just need to know how many per spring needed.

Anyone chime in on something better (no lift).

 

Knocked out a couple of other to do’s since there was still day light left. Added some snake clamps at the steering reservoir hose connections as there is a small leak from there. Removed the OEM clamps to see if the hose was being cut into from years of clamp force. Look ok so maybe the fluid is going around the clamp? We’ll see.

Put another snake clamp on the exhaust shield as the bottom weld cracked. Put a bolt on another shield of which all old ones need to be grinded out and removed as they are nearly corroded away.

 

Got the things alignment done. Everything’s looking good so far. Lower part of the core support needs some minor straightening after pulling the fender



Also got some 2010 Tacoma taillights to use for taillights when the beds off... temporarily

 

You need 2 shackles total; one per side(rear).

 

Thanks for this info. So then the front of each spring needs? Bushings/sleeves/bolts and nuts? Two of each total?

 

Yes. I reused the original hardware.

 

Ok. Gonna get all new due to the clunk from a rusted sleeve per Mtntop. Things look rusty in there.