Upgrading just the factory speakers...

Thinking about upgrading the factory speakers in my truck. From another post, I see that they are 6.5's and 6x9's. Has anyone changed these out and is there a significant difference? The sound is ok, but not great by any means. Not really looking to add an amp or sub or anything, just the speakers.

 

@TruckyTruck did his entire sound system and looks like it turned out great. Hopefully he can chime in and point you in the right direction.

 

Cool, Thanks.! Yeah, just looking to put in Kenwoods or something that will hopefully sound better than factory. Also need to add some noise dampening in the doors I think. Some times if the bass is too much, I can hear the back door plastic rattle a little.

 

Definitely looking forward to some responses in this thread. I'm looking to do the same thing. Do we have to use a shallow 6.5" up front?

Biggest part about this that scares me is taking the door panel off and putting it back on and having it fit like factory. Had a bad experience in my younger years...

 

I hear you on that. Used to go way over on speaks when I was younger. That's why I'm not looking to add the amp and all that. I think if you take your time taking the door panel off, it should go back on just fine. Also, I dont see any reason to have to use a shallow speaker. But a good question still.

 

I remember reading something about the depth being an issue on those front units...

 

Heck I'm anxious too. I would love better sound but have no interest in sub or amp.
As for the door panel...they are very easy to remove. Had to do it to install my tow mirrors. So no worries there.

 

Not to hijack the thread, but did you have to remove the door handle at all or was It pretty straight forward?

 

@Blankcheese

I saw on a sell post that you changed out your door speakers. Can I ask which speakers you used to replace these? I am curious about replacing the factory speakers and someone brought up that we'd need to use a shallow speaker. Can you give any insight? Thanks..!

 

I did 6x9s in the front and whatever size the rear speakers were in the doors. 6x9s are easier in my opinion because you don't have to find a place for the crossovers if you do components. I made my own door speaker spacers and used Raam Mat to seal the doors. The trouble you have with 6x9s is finding some that not only fit the shallow door pocket, but also fit behind the door panel. I ended up doing a little trimming on the inside of the door panel, but If I had to do it over again I would have went with some shallow mount 6x9s like the Alpine type s. Does your truck have a factory amp? If not, you will be trying to power speakers with a weak head unit and new speakers only won't get loud and may not sound good at all. So you may need an amp for the new speakers. I basically rewired the whole truck with 16 guage wire, 4 channel Polk amp for the doors and separate amp for my sub.

Just noticing you have a tss model. Most likely you don't have a factory amp. So just replacing the door speakers won't be worth the effort. Same week head unit trying to power larger magnets... I would say either amp them or keep it stock. Hope that helps.

 

That makes sense and helps answer my question on what to do, or not do rather. On previous vehicles when I was younger, I added all this equipment, only to trade it off later and scramble to unhook everything. Became too much so I just kept it factory on the last couple cars.

Do the back doors have components, it sure looks like it, but can't tell if there is an actual speaker there. Maybe its just the same door panel for higher end trucks that do have a better system.

 

BTW Gary, do you have a build page or anything you posted to show the speaker set up that you did?

 

I used Scosche adapters which actually add depth. I went with Kicker all around, I'll have to look up the part numbers, but my truck is too loud to listen to at half volume, I'm talking ear damage. Then again I put in two honking amps also.

 

Nice, yeah any additional info would be great.

 

Scosche SAT69 fronts
Amazon aftermarket 6.5" spacers for the rear:

Custom Install Parts 6.5" Plastic Black Speaker Adapter Compatible with Toyota - Select Models -

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007ZQGZWO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Rockford Fosgate P600x4 for the doors
Rockford Fosgate P500X1BD for the Kicker 40CWRT102 10" Shallow sub

Kicker 41KSS654 6.5" and Tweets, crossovers easily tuck in the kick panels by your feet
Kicker 41KSC654 6.5" coax for the rear doors

Boss Audio CPBK2.2 2 Farad Capacitor

MediaBridge SW-16X2-100-WH 16 ga speaker wire from Amazon

Kenwood Excelon DDX6902 head unit. Smaller screen than factory, but supports Apple Car Play through its charging USB connector, love it.

 

Unless they changed the 3rd gens, I don't think so. Second gens don't have components in the rear.
My build page has the equipment I used.
https://www.tundras.com/threads/truckytrucks-build.66/

 

I have a 2016 Regular Cab. It came with 6 X 9 in the doors. I couldn't do anything to make a pair of Kicker 6 X 9 fit. Not enough room in the back and front.

So I applied Dampener Pro on the inside of the door. Then put in a pair of 6 1/2 because I didn't want to cut on the door or interior panel. After the speakers I covered to two holes with DynaMat.

 

Interested thread......