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What wax, polish, compound to use???

Discussion in 'Detailing' started by FirstGenTundra, Aug 6, 2016.

  1. Aug 6, 2016 at 9:14 PM
    #1
    FirstGenTundra

    FirstGenTundra [OP] ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

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    Alright, so I was a moron and knew better than to go to a drive in do-it-yourself car wash but I was hard up for a clean truck and it was the only option I had at the time... Long story short, once the truck dried I had those brush scratches/skuffs ALL OVER my once shiny black truck. So now I'd like to start working them out but here's the problem. I'm a total newb at buffing and waxing and have done enough research to figure out I have no idea how to properly proceed or what product to buy. I just want to buff out the light scratches (if you could call them that) and scuffs left from the self soaping brush. What should I use? Compound, polish, sealer, wax? Please help. Tell me what I need and what kind to get. OR if I should just take it to a detailer and bite the bullet.

    Big thanks in advance... And yes... I learned my lesson... never...again... :anonymous:
     
  2. Aug 6, 2016 at 9:20 PM
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    Tracker

    Tracker New Member

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    Call your dealer. I have a 2016 and I was told the paint never needed waxing. Just soap n water. Not sure what year they put this type of finish on it. My other cars I prefer McGuires and Turtle.
     
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  3. Aug 6, 2016 at 10:05 PM
    #3
    FirstGenTundra

    FirstGenTundra [OP] ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ

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    I bought her used from an Acura dealership up in PA. They sure aren't going to help me out without me paying for it.
     
  4. Aug 6, 2016 at 10:43 PM
    #4
    owslystnly

    owslystnly New Member

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    Um, really? Sounds dubious. I'm tempted to offer to sell you this bridge I have here..... o_O
     
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  5. Aug 7, 2016 at 6:33 AM
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    WarEagleSteve

    WarEagleSteve Getting out of Jersey!

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    Meg's makes some good products and can be found very easily. With that said, depending on the scratches and other swirls, start with the least aggressive product first.
    I'm probably the wrong guy to talk to about detailing...LOL...

    To the Mods, If this is inappropriate please remove. With that said, here is a detailing job I did with a Black vehicle....
    http://carproforum.com/showthread.php?1137-2014-Nissan-Pathfinder-CQuartz-UK-coating

    Here is the shot of the hood...

    image.jpg
     
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  6. Aug 7, 2016 at 7:04 AM
    #6
    mdavis

    mdavis Tiger Life

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    Ummm... No. If I were you, I would not listen to that advice.
     
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  7. Aug 7, 2016 at 7:42 AM
    #7
    BlueFalconActual

    BlueFalconActual Field Day Inspector Extraordinaire

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    From page 400 of the manual:
    1. If water does not bead on a clean surface, apply wax when the vehicle body is cool


     
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  8. Aug 7, 2016 at 7:47 AM
    #8
    BlueFalconActual

    BlueFalconActual Field Day Inspector Extraordinaire

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    OP, Meguiars makes some pretty good stuff that is easy to use and very forgiving. I would look into their Ultimate Compound followed by their Ultimate Polish and then their Ultimate Wax. The compound will remove the scratches, the polish will restore the shine and the "wax" will seal and protect all your work with synthetic polymers that is like adding a layer of glass on your paint.
     
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  9. Aug 7, 2016 at 12:35 PM
    #9
    Tracker

    Tracker New Member

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    Thats what they told me when I completed my paperwork. They said never wax it. Thats all I got for you.
     
  10. Aug 7, 2016 at 12:49 PM
    #10
    owslystnly

    owslystnly New Member

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    All the more reason to not listen to sales people. I'm sure all of their used vehicles were also only driven by a little old lady to church on Sunday.
     
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  11. Aug 7, 2016 at 12:59 PM
    #11
    BlueFalconActual

    BlueFalconActual Field Day Inspector Extraordinaire

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    I'm wondering if he meant not to wax it right off the bat. I've heard that older cars paint took a lot longer to cure completely so you weren't supposed to wax a new car until it was given time to cure.
    Either that or he was a complete moron.:notsure:
     
  12. Aug 7, 2016 at 1:08 PM
    #12
    WarEagleSteve

    WarEagleSteve Getting out of Jersey!

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    Not surprised. Even if they did offer a coating/ sealant and someone takes it, check the contract!
     
  13. Sep 1, 2016 at 1:14 PM
    #13
    Shawn850

    Shawn850 New Member

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    I've read the comments and I would suggest that you take a look at a YouTube channel from AmmoNYC or DriveClean. It has the same guy (Larry) who is a professional detailer and talks about a lot of the same stuff in this discussion.
    I can answer this though...EVERY car needs to be waxed BUT not right away and not all the time. There are two major paint protective products on the market; wax and sealant. Wax is a natural product but it doesn't last long. It gives a lot of shine and a bit of protection.
    Sealant is a man-made synthetic product that protects for months, not weeks. If you have to pick one, pick the Sealant (Chemical Guys has a pretty good line of both)
    Scratches: you'll need a Dual Action polisher, some foam polishing pads, several polishing compounds (depending on the paint damage) and a LOT of patience.
    Light scratches that aren't down to the primer or metal will come out but you need the DA polisher to level out the clear coat.
    (Modern cars have a lot of clear coat and only a few layers of paint. The clear coat is tougher of the two and you can't fix it by hand polishing anymore, damn progress).
    Also with brand new, fresh off the show room cars; no waxing for a least a month to let the paint "off gas" (yes, it's a real thing). You can wash it with car soap as much as you want (2 bucket method is best to avoid scratches) and invest in a good wash mitt, no old t-shirts.
    There's more and I could go on to bore you, but look at the YouTube channels
     
  14. Sep 1, 2016 at 1:24 PM
    #14
    WarEagleSteve

    WarEagleSteve Getting out of Jersey!

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    Shawn,

    There are also coatings that are different from waxes and sealants. I have been using nano coatings and have had great results.

    Also I like the two bucket method but use three buckets, one dedicated to wheels only.

    Great to see someone who is into it. Do you use a foam cannon or foam gun by chance? I have both but love the cannon with my coatings.
     
  15. Sep 1, 2016 at 1:35 PM
    #15
    Shawn850

    Shawn850 New Member

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    Ah yes, nano coatings..they are damn good and last a year or so...until you have to take it off to fix a scratch then you curse them to Hell and back because they are a very tough coating. The entire panel has to be to stripped of the coating to fix that paint mark...and then reapplied.
    Yup, I've got a 3rd bucket for the wheels along with dedicated brushes and even a mitt.
    I've got the foam cannon with a Karcher washer, but I went cheap and only got a 1500 psi one that really doesn't get much of the dirt off as I'd like...in hindsight, I should have bought a stronger 1800 or 2000. I'm not sure, but I don't think they make a 2500 in electric.
    I'm thinking that I might get some of the lower body panels and doors "wrapped" to protect them in the bush.
     
  16. Sep 1, 2016 at 1:39 PM
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    WarEagleSteve

    WarEagleSteve Getting out of Jersey!

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    Awesome Shawn! I have had great luck with my coatings...prolly just jinxed myself...lol.

    I watch Larry's videos along with Corey from Car Pro, Mike from A.G., and others. I like Car Pros line of products, Reload, Pearl, IronX, Reset, CQUK and DLUX.

    My Tundra has XPEL film on the hood, A Pillars, Front, and roof. I travel the interstates a lot and learned the hard way with my old truck. So far, it has held up well with no issues.
     
  17. Sep 1, 2016 at 1:46 PM
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    Shawn850

    Shawn850 New Member

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    I've tried the IronX metal remover and I'm not sure about it...I haven't really noticed the colour change in the product especially when I use it on my paint, but I also clay the vehicles regularly so that might be the reason.
     
  18. Sep 1, 2016 at 1:49 PM
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    WarEagleSteve

    WarEagleSteve Getting out of Jersey!

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    Oh yeah. If I can find the picture of one car I Did...Yikes! It looked like it was bleeding.

    I also like the Trix that removes Iron and Tar. Do you have any "polishers"? I have the Ole trusted Porter Cable 7424, Flex 3401 and Kompakt, and Rupes Mark 15.
     
  19. Sep 1, 2016 at 1:57 PM
    #19
    Shawn850

    Shawn850 New Member

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    Rupes Bigfoot 21 (Chemical Guys in Canada right now have it on sale to get rid of their stock as the Mark 2 model has come out)
    and a Megs G110, along with their cheap drill attachment DAs (3in pad). You'd be surprised but they are actually pretty good at small body panels and curves that a 5 or 6 inch pad won't get to.
    Having said that, I like to add a Rupes 3in to my collection.
     
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  20. Nov 24, 2016 at 6:28 AM
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    briarpatch

    briarpatch New Member

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    Shawn850 gave you some good advice. as did the poster who mentioned Meguiars. The Meguiars Ultimate line is a great place to start.....reasonably priced and locally available. My experience with later model Toyotas is that they have very soft clear coat...the bad part is they scratch easy...the good part is they correct easy. Purchasing a DA is an excellent investment. I highly recommend the 6" Griots Garage DA....lifetime warranty....more than enough power to handle what you've described. If you do not have the budget, the Meguiars DA Power System is surprisingly versatile and effective.

    I also highly recommend going to autogeek.net and getting on their forum. Lots of hobbyists (like me) and pro detailers on there. There's lots and lots of good advice to be had, and some very helpful and knowledgeable folks there.
     
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  21. Nov 24, 2016 at 6:57 AM
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    driverdog

    driverdog New Member

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    IMG_0379.jpg

    Awesome hood pic @WarEagleSteve !! Flawless!!
     
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