What Power Brake Bleeder do y’all use?

I’m sold on spending $50-$100 on a power bleeder that attaches to the reservoir and pressurizes the system to 10-15 PSI via a hand pump or the tire. It seems like the best method to bleed the breaks. I’m terrified to do the traditional 2-man method, because I don’t trust that my girlfriend won’t put the pedal through the floor and blow the seals on the master cylinder. The tube in a bottle or vacuum pump at the bleeder could work, but the pressure bleeder still seems like it’ll be more convenient and also get the most air out.

I’ve done some research and it seems like the main struggle with these pressure bleeders is getting the adapter to seal since the reservoir on the Tundra isn’t threaded. It seems like all the actual power bleeders themselves work similar.

So my question is what combination of power bleeder and adapter do you have and how well does it work? Also is there any I should stick away from?

 

A block of appropriately sized wood behind the brake pedal will resolve that and is still the best method at least in my opinion.

However, I use this:

https://speedibleed.com/

They sell the adapters as well. Well made but pricey if bought separately.

 

More information
(not really needed lol, but thought I’d include the reason why I’m bleeding the brakes)

Took advantage of the recent Toyota Dealer part sales and going to redo my brakes. For ~$500 I got rotors, pads, shims, drums, shoes, and also that $1 drum gasket. All oem. I’ll get a doorman rear brake hardware kit. Toyota shoe kit hasn’t came in yet, but I don’t think it includes hardware.

Main complaint is there’s some shuddering in the pedal when braking at 40mph+. Shuddering in the pedal leads me to believe it’s something with the rears. Current brake components are pretty new from previous owner (except the drums appear to be original), but I have no idea what brand there are and the previous owner was a bit of a hack. I’d rather not take any chances with brake components and just replace it all back to oem. I’ll make sure to inspect wheel calipers and wheel cylinders to see they are operating properly. I was debating doing wheel cylinders, but ultimately decided not to.

Yes, I’ve read the rear parking brake adjustment in the FSM. Yes, I know to reuse the OEM adjuster. Yes, I know to bleed LSPV first. Yes, I’ll get the rust off the hubs.

 

Ah yes, I saw that one come up in my research. Main thing that sucked is after shipping and tax it was $125, like double the price of the motive one and only available on their website. I’ll see what other people say, if it comes up again maybe I’ll just bite the bullet and get it.

 

She’s not the most careful. Somehow she’d find a way to move the block of wood and push the pedal to the floor haha. Not taking chances here.

 

You’ll have to read what others say about Motive. I recall one member stating the number of pumps required is a PIA.

 

I use motive unit. I bought it without the adapters, I made my own. I installed a ball valve inline for better control

 

Nice! How well does it hold pressure? What did you use to make the adapter?

 

The only time I ever felt a shudder was when I adjusted the rears too tight.
Next commute to work or longer drive get out and check the temp of the drums.
It will be painfully obvious if one is too tight. Ask me how I know

 

I used the Motive unit also, I had to buy a separate adapter since the screw on style they said would work did not.

$27 CMTOOL 43mm Brake Bleeder Adapter Compatible with Toyota and Lexus, Aluminum 43mm Master Cylinder Adapter, Works with Brake Bleeder Kit

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CPL15QLS

This adapter worked perfectly but I did have to switch out the fitting.

 

This is the bleeder cap others have recommended. I bought it recent but haven't used it yet. I have a Motive bleeder tank around here somewhere already, I'm pretty sure. I actually need to look for that soon.

$32 SMOTIVEPRO 43mm Master Cylinder Bleeder Adapter Compatible with Toyota and Lexus

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SPCSGP9

Why are you replacing the rear shoes and drums, exactly? Is there some problem with them?

EDIT: Looks like manofsteele's option is 10% less and likely the same product, given how scAmazon works.

 

Another option are the Russell speed bleeders that don’t let air in and you can pump the brakes yourself. The right size would be on their website.

www.russellperformance.com

 

Works great, holds pressure. Looks like 1-1/2” rubber coupler, pvc reduce bushing, pipe nipples and adapter. Ball valve. Snug it on mc res, pump to 5lbs, open valve. Sometimes it pops off. I use it dry mostly, but sometimes I fill the unit to flush. Made bleeding something I loathed doing into an easy task. If unit is filled, clean with soap and water when done and dry it out

 

I put a loop of tubing up and then back down into an empty bottle and do the pedal pumping myself. The raised loop of tubing fills with brake fluid and keeps air from being pulled in. Bleed them all by myself. Never used power bleeder. The vacuum ones suck. No, really.

 

All comes out of the same chinese factory, why pay more

 

Science!

 

I’ve never tried a power bleeder, but used the same thing as described for the past 15-20 years.

https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/brake-bleeder/p/duralast-one-man-brake-bleeder-kit/1267199_0_0

 

This is the way I pumped through a big bottle (quart?) plus part of another on mine. Best cheap solo solution, mine is an old salsa jar

 

I just use a vacuum pump and a mason jar I epoxied some barbs into. Lets me pull the brake fluid into the jar and not into the vacuum pump.

 

Shudder in brake pedal at higher speeds braking. Also at lower speed breaking, I can hear a rubbing sound from the shoe’s contacting drums. Seems like a cheap shoe might have been used. I read on here that someone mentioned cheap shoes causing a shudder. I adjusted them properly and the parking brake properly per FSM and that rubbing sound is still there. If I back up the adjuster to where I don’t here the sound, then I completely lose the brake pedal.

I didn’t realize until after I bought the truck, but the previous owner seemed to be a bit of a hack and take shortcuts. The bell cranks were removed completely. They weren’t rusted off, but just removed. The parking break cable was broken before the equalizer. My guess is the cable broke and they lost the ability for the rear breaks to auto adjust and over time breaks got weaker and weaker. So they got the rear brakes done, but didn’t want to pay extra for the parking brake to get fixed.

Who knows if the old brake job was even done correctly? If the mechanic/whoever did the brakes didn’t understand the importantance of the parking brake being functional, I’m going to also assume they didn’t properly take apart the adjuster and clean it, didn’t grease the contact points where the shoes contact the backing plate. They probably over adjusted the crap out of the shoes just to get a decent pedal and that could have caused the drums to overheat and warp. Now by the time I got the truck, even if it’s adjusted properly, it’s too late.

Too many red flags and it was only $500 to get all new brakes all around. Maybe I could have reused the drums and saved $220. But I’d still have to pay $60-80 to get them turned and it doesn’t change the fact they are old and rusty. Maybe you might mention it’s just the fronts being warped and causing all the shudder, but that doesn’t change there was some short cuts taken at the rear and I’d like to go in there and fix it. I’d like the peace of mind of everything being new and correctly done with new fluid in the system.

 

This is the way ^^^

I have the same adapter and motiv bleeder and have used it for my 2003 Tacoma (I assume same master cylinder cap diameter), and 2021 4runner, my 2018 Tundra and my wife's previous 2016 Sequoia. Once you use one of these, you'll look down upon anyone still pumping the brakes manually to bleed them lol

 

What fitting did you have to switch it to and how? Does it just screw out? I’m sure I could figure it out, but I just want one simple Amazon order without trips to the hardware store.

 

I have a Mityvac pneumatic vacuum bleeder that I like a lot

 

Yeah it just screws out. I used some air fittings I already had, luckily the screwed right in and worked perfectly.

 

So by fitting, do mean that you replaced the quick coupler plug on the adapter so that it would fit into the hose coupler socket on the Motive unit?

 

Yes. I had one of these kits from harbor freight already, so I just used what I had.

 

Could I just use this adaptor https://www.ebay.com/itm/176393779330?_skw=43mm+Master+Cylinder+Bleeder+Adapter+toyota&itmmeta=01K6GKBCNCMHYMNY01RG1F6FV3&itmprp=enc%3AAQAKAAABAFkggFvd1GGDu0w3yXCmi1fauo1HQELYaoCpkXLoNigQ0RQg1Z0Ie5g8sovx3RVlobciOp0eWkrd38nTvzpaNbz+xtokYVh8xD368GHtkfm0l2WIcAgYPSklsEwS9YHln5906REWyx9UDKapuctqaYb5ivmYccWv0YP8nvbqZB3g+i2deiWw5KXK544kf9iEM0KaZ+2nJ2O%2F9uoseGB5VHISaY9QRBOiSKR1FAXExkV8s77rvEhWcMBwtQX%2Fi7c5WrBEUw1VS9wULqQODbIsM21sWEnFeJKOe7MDbrw21Gxo7x4eAm9NwNd1kzctjADSBzxpcyKBQq5SeNxDVXLx2z0%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM4sqtk7Rm
Pressure it with air, bleed one fitting, remove it, refill it, then bleed another fitting and so on? How many PSI?

 

Yes. 10-12 psi.

 

I can confirm that this is true. It's a colossal PITA! I hate it!!! Their manual says ~ 50 pumps to get it to pressure, but it works out to be more than 100!! Now I use my tire inflator to get the Motive up to pressure (~15psi) in just a few seconds. Now I love it!!!!

 

I use the Schwaben pressure bleeder. Its a very high quality product: https://www.rennline.com/schwaben-3-liter-european-pressure-brake-bleeder-sku-sch-2774831/