What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

Where is the best place to source painted bushwacker fender flares these days?

 

Most likely they will have to be painted locally.

 

Are they OE or aftermarket? The Tundra in my sig pic had them when i bought it. I want to add the same ones to my Silver Sky 2020.

 

Group 24. They also didn’t have the 27.

 

This! I have a battery jumper but it was dead so I pulled out the cables.

 

You still won’t.
24F worked perfectly for me in the last truck.

 

Pay it forward so @TRDFerguson can get his gears done, then he can pay it forward so I can get mine done…in perpetuity…

 

OEM flares are hard to find. Not many trucks had them. They were more common on the 07-13's than the 14-21's. I have aftermarket Bushwackers on mine but I had them Line-X'ed.

 

My last battery was a Costco 27f. The one next to me just didn’t have one in stock. I have zero concerns about running a 24f.

 

then you can pay it forward to me

 

27F flooded.
Interstate didn’t make an AGM in that size

 

two is one

 

One is none.

 

Finally got the skid installed

 

Late to the party, but, yes the throttle settings in 4Lo are horrible and designed to keep things from breaking. But they can easily be modified with a tune. Or you can just get HP Tuners, some credits, and modify those throttle settings yourself.

If memory serves from the last time I looked at the stock settings, you don't get full beans in 4Lo in any gear. They limit the throttle opening angle and really dumb it down. You get a little bit of throttle opening right off idle, but then everything after that is REALLY slow to open the throttle blade, especially compared to how standard 2wd throttle behaves. And to boot, the throttle angle is limited at RPM, so if you don't have enough power to get over a certain RPM, the throttle remains more closed than open.

Good news is, you can change all of that.

Years ago, Expedition Overland purchased a tundra, kitted it out, and then struggled to complete a trail on one of their episodes. They assumed the high altitude of the trail and heavy weight of the vehicle were to blame. In reality, the found that limit where a stopped vehicle attempting to overcome an obstacle hits the converter stall and is throttle-limited by the nannies no matter how far you push down the pedal. Basically, after 30 or 40% pedal, IIRC, you aren't getting any additional throttle body opening with additional pedal input.

ATRAC is usually pretty helpful in 4Lo, IMO. Unless you need lots of wheel speed. But then see the comments above...

You don't need to worry about a relay spoofing switch box to fix 4Lo. A tune from OTT or others can fix that

I also carry an M18 inflator in all of my vehicles. Airing down has bailed me out of some hairy situations in the snow where I would have otherwise been spending the night in the middle of nowhere without cell service. Usually I tell my wife when I'll be out of cell service and might not be home to the next day. But I'd rather pack the inflator and give myself a better chance of getting home.

On one occasion, I unloaded my trailer at a cabin in the middle of nowhere and spent the day working. There was about 7' of snow piled up - more where the trail in and "driveway" had been plowed - and at least a foot of base snow on the road. Sunny, warmish day caused the snow to compress, then it got cold and started snowing for a couple of hours before I left. 8-10 inches of fresh heavy snow on top of a compacted, wet, partially frozen base and I had to hitch up on my trailer on a graded "driveway" and I basically slide down backwards with little to no control until I bumped in to trailer tongue. Took about 5 attempts to position the truck since it was so slick the truck either moved sideways or kept sliding. After a half dozen attempts in various drive modes and nanny modes, I had iced up several spots. I knocked 20 psi out of the tires and literally didn't spin a tire dragging the trailer out of there.

I would have been fine overnight; no power at the cabin, but it was a dry place to sleep. But I was much happier to drive 10 miles down the road aired down then spend another 10 minutes airing up.

 

I appreciate the response. Once I realized I was only making it worse by trying to just drive out, I got tunnel vision on my shovel as the only way to fix things, never considered airing down until it was mentioned above. Hindsight is always 20/20 I guess I’ll be better prepared next time.

 

Great info, as always

so off of that; pulling the abs fuse would not change the throttle sensitivity/mapping for 4Lo, you’d kill the nannies completely but you would not change up the “available” throttle

as someone who hasn’t needed high speed with 4Lo (minus backing up a foot and bumping it - not many rocks in La lol) wouldnt it be ideal to switch to 4Hi since you’ll gain the throttle availability back? And you don’t run the risk of glazing the tcase clutches either

edit: just remembering my 07 was tuned by YotaWerx with a “beta/preliminary” tune for the 2nd gen 4.7; so perhaps they changed the 4Lo throttle mapping and never said anything about it. Wheeled with the tune for probably 2.5-3 years

 

I think I still have my parts list for my cheap 4 tire deflater if you want me to check. I think all in on parts was like $70 or less

 

Luckily, there aren’t any clutches in these transfer cases; once they are locked in they are locked in. You would be putting more strain on the transmission in 4Hi - the converter specifically. But really you would be quickly adding lots of heat to the system. 4Lo is really advantageous for that. I don’t recall offhand the throttle mapping for 4high.

I had an old bronco with a 400m and np205 tcase with its abysmal 1.96:1 low range (but indestructible gears). After flat top pistons, an RV cam, a 4 barrel carb and Edelbrock intake, it make gobs of torque and 4Lo was rarely needed. But when it got hot, I’d have to shift in to 4Lo and the temps would drop.

I know I’m bagging on how limited 4Lo is, but it’s gotten me out of some pretty sticky places before being tuned. So it works well-enough most times. Just that scenario of being stopped with an obstacle or lots of snow/sand/mud and needing to lean on the converter to get going.

 

Do tell. I just carry these in my truck but a slick setup would be nice.

 

I’ll take it for now I ordered this little deal to put in my bed box.

$11 GODESON Tire Deflator,4 in 1 Solid Brass Easy Storage and Using Tire Air Down Tool,Tire Pressure Deflators for Offroad Vehicle

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X8VY6QD

 

Huh, I could have sworn I read on here that the 14-21 case switched to borg warner as the manufacturer and that it had clutches (hence the fluid change to 75w) vs the 07-13 case that was chain driven

unless it’s not clutches but just gears?

yeah for sure, 4Lo has done well for me on low speed crawling, just always seemed strange to me to need wheel speed and not go up to 4Hi; but I get the appeal

 

I’ll get it for yall and some pictures when I head back this weekend

 

I wonder if you are thinking about shift synchros? I mean, I could very well be wrong, but I don’t see any reason to have any clutches in that t case since it doesn’t have Auto4WD. The only T cases I know of with clutches were either viscous coupling type AWD transfer cases or Auto4WD cases that uses a clutch and electromagnet to engage and disengage the front driveshaft on demand while leaving the actual case in 4wd. I had an old exploder that had this type of t case. A popular mod was the ‘brown wire mod’ where you manually locked the frint driveshaft clutch since 4Hi was actually Auto4WD. I learned that the hard way after burying the thing in a 3 foot snowdrift

I think this is the same type of mechanism that Ford and GM use (or used at some point) to offer Auto4WD, which really means 2wd unless you slip a tire.

The sequoia and Land Cruiser cases don’t use clutches either. They have a helical gear planetary gear set and an extra step in the shift fork range to engage the planetary or lock it out, which gives it AWD and 4WD (and differs from Auto4WD).

 

Used a CARISTA OBD2 to turn off my front seat belt chimes.

 

Did the same with my Launch Creader Elite and also changed the unlock all 4 doors with one press of the button on my key fob

 

No clutches and both use chains.

 

Isn't this something that can be done via the head unit?

 

As for deflators- I got this kit and it works pretty good +/- 2PSI https://amzn.to/46TQlmU

 

Well thats what always confused me when I read it here; why would they switch to clutches for a transfer case?

Just checked the parts diagrams and you're right, still gear sets and chain driven; they're a little different across 2nd gen vs 2.5 gen so they did change a little bit

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