What have you done to your 2.5 gen Tundra today?

I hope you aren't doing oil changes every 10k

 

At 20k, that should be oil change #5 at minimum

 

5?? I change mine every 1k miles. just kidding

 

Dedicated to maintenance. Changed the coolant in 18 degree weather.

 

Nice! Love the Truck BTW.

 

No no....every 5k miles. I just hit 20k miles so it was just time, that's all. Plus tire rotation.

 

I just scrolled through all his comments. I don't see where it said he stopped making them. I'll shoot him a PM and if he's still making them, pick one up for my dad's truck. He did a fantastic job on the quality, I'd argue it's better than OEM

 

I like this idea, mine are a little deformed from the undercoating overspray. What wasn't direct fit about it? Was it the aftermarket suspension parts causing clearance issues?

 

Oh wait, you're right! I just went to his site and it says not accepting orders. I'm still going to shoot him a PM. I know he was always concerned about the turnaround time, but I'm in zero rush for it, so I can wait however long it takes.

 

Man I hate to hear that. Dave is a good dude and he provided a solid service to Toyota truck owners. Hope everything is alright.

 

replaced old faded aftermarket shorty antenna w/ a new antenna by VOTEX (new brand on AMZ, not chinese?).

 

How do you like those go rhino side steps?

I had the N-FAB podiums but the passenger side was damaged in an accident. They also aren’t the greatest for tighter parking spots, the step is kinda useless if the door isn’t open enough

 

I really like those steps. They solve 3 problems: My dog can climb up without a paw going through and getting hurt. I can stand along them and clean the top of the cab. Lastly, they stick out enough to prevent door dings.

 

On his website it says something along the lines of “this shop is closed” and it’s been like that for the last probably 6 months; but let us know if he’ll still make them, please!

 

Fly rods too??

 

He said he'd make one for me. He said the store will remain closed but he can always help out those with a little patience. That's a relief, those harnesses are awesome!

 

Click the tw vendor link in his signature in that thread and it’ll take you to his vendor page over there. Last post on that thread there is someone who took over building these.

 

I was just about to make a post about this, more of a question really. I am contemplating changing my own, watch a few videos and it seems pretty straight forward. How long did it take you, and did you use any anti seize on the threads and dialectic grease on the ignition coils as suggested?

 

I just did mine. It's a piece of cake, I used a magnetic spark plug socket. I use copper anti-seize (sparingly) and dielectric grease on the coil boots. I also use dielectric grease in the plugs for the coils as well.

 

Don’t use dielectric grease on them, it’s actually an insulator, not a conductor

 

Most mechanics will not use anti seize on the threads of spark plugs because it affects torque value of the plugs. Also only use dielectric grease in a small amount on the porcelain part of the plug where the boot slides and touches the plug body

 

I know. That's why you definitely want to use it on the boots, to seal out moisture. Most replacement coil boots, including the ones from Denso, include a small packet for this exact reason. I use a q tip to smear it around the inside of the boot where it seals around the plug. I wouldn't put it on the plug itself because the boot will just squeegee it off.

Depends on the manufacturer. Some come pre-installed with it, and some don't. If it doesn't come pre-installed, I put a tiny amount on the threads to prevent galvanic corrosion. You don't have to if you don't want to. I've installed thousands of spark plugs so I don't break out a torque wrench for them any more. Head studs, valve train, torque to yield bolts, etc - obviously I use it. Spark plugs I do by feel though so I'm not worried about over-torque.

 

Here's my rationale, again, take it or leave it.. Early in my career as a tech, I had a V6 Hyundai Santa-Fe (2.7 I think) that I was replacing plugs on. While one of the plugs was about halfway in on the rear bank, the threads started to gall and I couldn't back it out or continue until it was tight. It became a giant ordeal that involved pulling the heads. After that I bought a tub of copper anti-seize and I put a tiny little dab on the threads (I leave the first couple threads bare) and I've never had a problem since. I classify it under the "an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" but if you don't feel comfortable doing it, then by all means, leave it bare. I would 100% use electric grease on the inside of the coil boot though.

 

New wheels should be done from powder coat next week. Excited to see how they come out.

 

Need some opinions if you regeared.

Do I use the new nitro pinion seals provided in the kit or should I order oem seals instead?

 

Most go OEM and Zuk always recommended using OEM. I must admit I have a Nitro in the rear pinion seal as I had to pull it to add some shims to the pinion. Hasn't leaked in the past year.

 

Ok looks like I’ll order a new front/rear seal from Toyota. Thanks!

 

Anyone ever re-gear a nearly stock truck? I only went from 275-65-18 to a 275-70-18 but I’ve been wondering how 4.88 would feel. I’d love to supercharge and leave stock gearing it but that’s out of my price range for now.

 

Since the bed of the truck had to come off for repairs, insurance paid to have it resprayed, looks like new! Hopefully get it back this week.