What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

The HD packs are 4/1 and non-side-specific. If you get a kit from ATS they just ship two of the same part and tell ya to put whichever has slightly more arch on the driver side.

The ATS 3/1s are still side specific part #s like the original toyota springs.

 

I'm going with the 4(1) leaf spring pack. I will check with them but I thought I just inquire while on the subject.

 

Yep. They only show one part number for the HD leaf springs.

 

Installed new LBJ

 

Whelp, I'm in it now. Started on replacing the timing belt and everything was going fine. Got to the compressor and removed the bolt nut/bracket up front, and the rear bolt and then started turning the bolt that is right up against the hose and it is stripped. I was using a 12mm box wrench, thought it was turning and is was actually rounding the bolt. I have a small jaw vise grip that Tried on the bolt, but even that can barely squeeze in the space.

Please say a prayer for me and I'm open ears if anyone has any ideas.

 

Welcome!
Is this bolt stripped or rounded off? Broken or still whole? One might be able to weld a nut onto the remains to allow extraction.

 

They make extractor kits for exactly that purpose. They're shaped like a socket, you hammer them onto the fastener, and ratchet (or impact) the bolt or nut out.

 

Gearwrench bolt biter sockets work good. If there's room to get at it.

$35 GEARWRENCH 8 Pc. 1/4" & 3/8" Drive Bolt Biter Impact Extraction Socket Set - 84782

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07PNS5QH4

They also have a larger set with more sizes.



Very similar to the more expensive gripedge rpt removal sockets but without the internal threaded tool. (Also sold by mac, matco at even higher prices).

 

It’s in there, I don’t have a welder, and I’m not sure there’s enough clearance to even try. I’m looking at it thinking I may have to evacuate the AC lines and remove the lines from the compressor so I have better access? I’m not totally sure if that hose junction is removable?

 

There is no room for a socket. The closed end of my box wrench won’t even fit in there. So it’s less than 8mm clearance.

 

Hmmm. IF there is room to swing them some Knipex cobra pliers (may need needle nose version) or pliers wrench would probably do the job. Maybe a good quality needle nose visegrip.



If that line goes to a block that is held to the compressor with a bolt, it can be removed after evacuating the system. You can also replace the bolt then too.

 

I have found that there are places where a 12 point boxed end wrench does not serve well. They do make 6 point boxed end wrenches ifna ya ain't ruined the head too much.

 

I was thinking the same thing, but at this point I've lost just about any edge after thinking I was making progress with the vice grip. I think I could get it out if I could get that AC line out of the way. Guess that is my next move.

 

I’ve got 2 piece rotors. I just need to use different blanks and have different hats made. I’d rather keep my stoptech calipers

 

The ol reliable steed has so far completed 70% of the trip today. 600 miles down. Just 400 more to go

13th mr2 acquired.

 

13 all at once? Wilddd

 

Working on the valve covers again today, started yesterday. Got the passenger side reassembled and put back on. Broke one of the new spark plug tube seals when bending the last tab over, ughh. Robbed one from the other side and another $16 to Amazon for a pack of 8 from Felpro. Oh well. Might offer up the rest here if someone needs them, or throw them on a shelf and forget about them for years.

Really had to beat the piss out of the old ones to pop them out

 

Are those Cobra pliers the shit? Been eyeing them with envy....

 

I like them. I've got I think 6 pairs currently. I've gifted a few as well.

The 7" and 10" are my most used. Consider getting the set of 3.

 

So you can’t cut them out with some wire cutters?

 

They are the kittens kittens!
I have the 6 or 7” version which open up to the equivalent of 8+ and the adjustment range is very tight. I mainly like them because of the width of the jaws; I do a lot of close quarter pipe fitting and the thin jaws are a major plus!

 

So are you trying to build like 10 at this point and the rest are for parts?

Your tundra would look sick with a KBD valence with some auxiliary lights in it.
I'm still figuring out how I want to mount lights in mine.

 

I haven’t a clue what the KBD valance is

 

Here you go

 

I don’t hate it. But I also don’t like it. This trucks getting ditch lights and some other love before anything

 

I finally got off my ass and installed the sway bar bushings and end link bushings that have been sitting in my living room for a year. Interestingly, the sway bar bushings were in pretty good shape, but the link bushings were toast. I have enough leftover Toyota rubber lube to last a few lifetimes....

 

I have the 7 inch variety of these:

$12 Irwin 4 in. Locking Wrench

Irwin 4 in. Locking Wrench - Locking Jaw Pliers - Amazon.com. The head thickness on mine is 12.7mm. You might be able to squeeze in the 4 inch variety....I couldn't readily find the thickness of the head for the 4 inch. The 7 inch worked like a champ for removing a stripped fuel filter flare nut.....

 

Can you get a small plumber pipe wrench in there? They will bite on a bolt better than vice grips.

 

Yeah, doesn't work like that. They're press-fit into the valve cover slot, and they have a rigid wire (almost like a steel belt) that runs through them in multiple places. After a while, the rubber hardens up, so you're dealing with hard plasticky rubber AND a steel belt, so ...

You really kinda need to get something to pinch the circle into a pacman shape, by pushing the interior ring in. But you need to do it in such a way that you don't mar the machining for the section they get press-fit into. It can be a bitch.