What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Nice. I know mine should be better than what I had, which was nothing. The truck did not have any bumpers when I purchased it.

 

Those ribs are hard on the knees. I don't know how the ladies do it.

 

Mine was 3 quarts drain and fill. I would never rely on what is stated in those documents as they are just estimates. I just catch what is removed and refill with same amount. Note: this method can be done once you know that the transmission has been filled properly. If the truck is new to you, then you should do refill method as described by Toyota. After that, you can do the refill method or drain and fill what comes out. If drain and fill method make sure the fluid in the truck and bottles are at the same temperature.

Wait a minute. Is that not a sealed transmission?

 

At first, Powerstop rotors worked well for me, but once they started to warp it got bad quick. I switched to EBC slotted only rotors and have gotten more life out of them. I don't think I'll use a drilled rotor again for my truck. I was already using EBC pads on the Powerstop rotors.

 

How many miles on the EBCs?

 

About a month ago my rear end wheel bearing seized up and I ended up replacing all the components while mechanic had everything tore down. Did brakes and drums, bearing, abs zone rings, seals etc. All OEM parts.
I will definitely keep you posted. Give me a few weeks and my 04 DC will be sittin pretty

 

Don't have an exact number, but over 30k. Definitely more miles than the Powerstop rotors.

 

I've been running some brand of heavy duty parts store rotors up front with BrakeBest pads and reman calipers that are working well, but have about 50k on them. I've replaced the pads once under warranty for a sticking caliper, also replaced under warranty. Really want to redo the whole front braking system with new rotors, calipers and pads soon. They actually are performing very well, even when towing with almost zero brake shake when stopping. Still on my original rear drums at 287k miles. only replaced the shoes once.

 

EBC Orangestuff are probably the best pads I've ran and have the strongest bite, but they're pretty dusty which doesn't bother me.

 

I did not add antiseize, the rust all came from its time up in Illinois while my dad had it. It will now be spending all of its time in TN.

I had bought 4 all new O2 sensors when it was throwing the codes initially and they are OEM. But I only ended up needing a new gasket and 2 new nuts to secure them to the new Walker resonator pipe assembly I got from Rock Auto. I bought the resonator and the muffler assemlies and they shipped to me fully assembled. The welds aren't as good as our boilermaker I work with can do, but they look like they are sealed up good.

 

I won’t run slotted or drilled anymore. They seem to warp no matter if just drilled, just slotted or both. More material is stronger in my mind and won’t warp as easy.

I agree! Someone was nice enough to gift me these for secret Santa. Thanks again buddy!!

 

Are those the R1 rotors?

 

I wanna say EBC RK rotors. I can confirm after work.

 

Nope. It is not sealed. Has a dipstick and drain plug, so to me that means it was meant to be serviced. Even though the dipstick says you don't need to. Which is weird...

 

I've been very happy with the greenstuff. I'll have to try orange stuff next time. They do give off a lot of dust, but I spray painted my wheels black so the dust is like touch up for my wheels

 

Went and bought some more paint I think I’m going to try and tackle my upper doors and fenders when it comes in.

 

My new Fr33 Lance Fab steering knuckles and spindles came in today. Almost have everything for the front suspension rebuild now. Just waiting on the upper control arm bolts and my springs/strut assemblies.

 

VVTi trucks only. 2005-2006 for the sealed 5spd AT.

 

2003 AC SR5 4.7 V8 4x4
My dad only got one RS3200 key fob when he bought his 03 used. So, I scored a couple of used OEM RS3200 fobs off eBay. Today, I used the "REPROGRAM EXISTING REMOTE CONTROLS" procedure from the tviprs3200.pdf document in this post to clear all previous fobs and add these 3 fobs. I shoulda gone and bought a lottery ticket afterwards because I got the programming sequence correct the FIRST time.

 

Fellas, is this the tool you use to hold the crankshaft/harmonic balances to torque it down?

$17 Kujunpao Cam Pulley Holder Tool W89208 Compatible for Nissan/Toyota/OHC/Camry/Maximas/V6

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08ZXNMJ38

I tried the 2x4 method but that just bent the bolts and broke the 2x4

 

This one

$21 E-cowlboy for Toyota/Lexus Crankshaft Damper Pulley Holding Holder Harmonic Tool with 2PCS Crank Bolts

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Q1W36L7

 

Nice

 

Thanks

 

That other tool is used to hold the cam gears while you loosen the front bolt when canghing the cam seals on a non-VVT 4.7.

 

It’s this one here

 

I bought some BullRing stake pocket tie-downs, but during install realized that there is a small gap between the bedrail cap and the actual bedrail. Tightening these causes the cap to flex downwards and bow out. So I made some 5mm spacers out of ABS and slid them underneath the bedrail cap. Now there's slightly less D-ring exposed, but they look correct. FWIW: the color is slightly darker than my brand new bedrail caps, and they're about 0.5mm too long which can be corrected with some light sanding.

 

I also have the Bull Rings in my stake pockets. At least with the access cab caps, there’s zero need for sanding or shimming. Simply pop the plastic cap off the top of the bed rails, install Bullrings flush on the sheetmetal, then slap back on the rail caps. Done and done. By doing that it also makes the flush mount rings an actual flush mount.

 

I want to be able to remove mine, and I don't really want to take off the bedrail rail caps if I can avoid it.

Here's a photo I found of part # BU75FR (what I am using). Even in this view you can see how the cap is deflecting in towards the stake pocket. It also bows into the bed.

 

Yes, i can see the deflection in the bed rail cap. That person installed the bullring incorrectly. It takes about 3 seconds to remove it, and maybe twice that time to pop it back on.
And just how often are you planning on removing and reinstalling the bullrings?…once a week, once a year, once ever?

 

How?

It really doesn't matter how many times, I just don't want to pull the bed rail caps off again if I can avoid it. In my experience the clips have a finite lifespan and I don't want to expedite their failure.