What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

If you put the beads in do you need to do the regular balancing and weights?
I have never investigated the beads, I thought they were a solution for when standard balancing wasn't working

 

Installed the right hand steering controls. They work great! My aftermarket radio picked them up just fine like the guide that Shifty made was saying.

Here it is when putting them in:


Here it is at night. Pic makes it look super bright but it’s in par with the brightness of the gauges:


Also installed the Lutz Auto speedometer calibrator. It was the only one I could find for 1st gen sequoia. It was an easy install and went on a drive and speedo read perfectly. Hopefully it holds up:

 

After some feedback on the Lutz Speedo calibrator. It sounds like it works great for DC and Sequoia but they have kinks to work out with the AC and RC. I’m assuming different wiring pinouts maybe? How many clicks did yours require at install to adjust the speeeo?

 

I have been roughly 5 mph off and it’s been behind on my speedo vs what my actual speed is at interstate speed so I did about 16 clicks. I went on a quick drive and it was close but need to adjust down a couple clicks. I’ll check it tomorrow when going to work and see but it should be spot on.

I didn’t know they were having problems with the AC and RC Tundras? My speedo wire is 3 pin and don’t know how that fares against others. I did notice on Lutz website that they advertise the one I got for just Sequoia. Interesting…

 

Update...

Update....so with intake manifold off for the 4th time, I removed the Chinese knock-off smog pump which I purchased for $60 on Amazon with my 20 yr old Toyota Denso smog pump ( a shop suggested I put my original smog pump back on if it was good, so that is what I did....Denso Quality ). So I called it a day and entered the "cold soak" period so I could work on completing the readiness monitors for smog check......

Well, came out this morning, started it up and never heard the smog pump come on. WTF

F**k....Discouraged, I stopped up at a local smog & repair and the owner run some diagnostic tests. With the car running and his scan tool, he started the smog pump....activated the VSV's, and monitor the live data for short term fuel trim for bank1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1.....the numbers didnt make sense.......

The plan was for me to buy the ASV ( we believe the pressure sensor on the ASV is bad ) which sits just past the smog pump & also buy new VSV's........so this would have been that I have replaced the smog pump, the 2 ASV #2 valves, and now buy the ASV and VSV's......damn near every part being replaced except for Air Injection Control Driver and the ECM.

Anyway, left there and decided to go for a drive to complete some of the monitors.....low and behold, all readiness monitors except for EVAP where completed with no DTC's thrown......I shit my pants at this point and high tailed it back to where I just left...He is a Smog & Repair Shop and full automotive shop in general......told him all monitors were ready.......he ran the smog test and it passed CA SMOG......this state is still deciding whether all monitors including EVAP have to be completed...right now this is the only that does not have to be completed in order to start a smog test.

In summary, I am good to go.... ( Smogged and registration fees paid ) for another 2 years. I definitely dodged a bullet here once again. This has been a recurring cycle every 2 years.

But I still have this plaguing problem with DTC P1442,P1445, P2441. These codes will rear their ugly head in another few days/weeks, but least they do not cause "limp" mode........at least I have breathing room to fix this problem properly ( I hope )

The bypass kit is just not for me. Hewitt Technologies makes a great product but it just isn't for me.

Thanks for reading......I know it was a little long-winded......

 

Find a friend in a smog free county. "Move" there.

 

SoCal is a beautiful place to live....San Diego.... America's Finest City.....I will pay for the sunshine tax anytime........vs freezing your ass off back East .....just sayin....

Whatever it takes to make a cleaner environment for those that follow after us.....

 

Have you tried cleaning any of the oem parts? I've posted how I did mine.

 

That’s cool. Did you just find the entire unit locally?

 

I looked and looked for a loaner wheel but couldn’t find one with just the speaker and phone button option on the right hand side. I decided to go fleBay. Here’s the one I got: https://ebay.us/m/2FC0gg


It came straight from China. I think it’s the same ones I was seeing on AliExpress. I looked into OEM but it was an outrageous price per side of wheel controls. These looked, felt and worked just fine. Lower risk IMO because if they go out then I just don’t have my radio controls and can switch back to my OEM (I’ll keep them).

I’m sure time will tell on quality for if they hold up. I’ll certainly post an update here if something happens to them. I am going to go in there one day and swap for white LEDs though.

 

Did you have to buy a different clock spring (spiral cable ) to make these steering wheel controls to work as well ?

 

Yes, used brake cleaner / carb cleaner very carefully on both ASV #2 valves zto make sure it didn't get up into the diaphragm area otherwise it would soften or eat the rubber diaphragm and would not hold vacuum. Also, the ASV valve just past the smog pump can be taken apart to see if valve is opening or needs cleaned....

Anyway, I replaced the 2 ASV's #2 with new OEM parts.....about $100 each

 

thanks. Did you buy a different airbag? Or did you have controls before? I thought the ones with controls were smaller? Paying attention since my DC is like your sequoia.

 

I think it can be done, but I believe weights and beads would end up working against each other. I don't think they'd be a good solution for everyone, but with bigger tires that are tougher to balance or with 16s that knock off weights, I think they're the way to go. The beads are going to work best at highway speeds and be less effective in city driving with lots of acceleration and deceleration, but for me balancing is more important at speed. This video shows them in action:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UZQXPLfOPXc

 

I didn't touch the steering wheel bolt on connection or clock spring. They worked right away without me having to do anything. All the connectors were the same - but there were added wires the main, top larger connector and I am assuming this is to accommodate the newer add-in right hand controls to be read by the car/radio head unit. I can only assume the vehicle was built with the harness running from the clock spring back to the head unit that was pre-wired for right hand controls like other builds were in that era of manufacturing. That's the only way this works. Then our

$70 Axxess ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Interface

Axxess ASWC-1 communicator for steering wheel controls to an aftermarket head unit just "figures it out" with the added button signals, which is nice.

The connectors I circled in red were the exact same and went to the same locations as I had before. The only difference is the added ribbon cable from the right hand controls linked to the left hand controls that I circled in purple. You can see that the original setup was lacking this because the right hand insert was just a blank. It was interesting that my ribbon cable was longer than I think it needed to be and different than what you buy from Toyota, but it tucked in that cavity nicely. I did make sure that it wasn't pinched by the airbag when I assembled it all back together.

 

I kept my airbag. I would have loved to convert to black but you can't find airbags for sale online without stupid shipping costs and I didn't want to mess with a junkyard find. I'll live with the 2-tone look, think it's pretty cool after it's installed. Especially once I do the steering wheel wrap in black leather one day, it will really pop.

I didn't have controls before but following Shifty's guide, I don't believe most or all of us did. Looks like it was a Sienna, LC or other Toyota builds that had the right hand controls from factory. Luckily, it looks like Toyota used the same harness from clock spring back to head unit for all builds that had right hand controls or not and were prewired for it and I believe that's the only way this works. The

$70 Axxess ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Interface

Axxess ASWC-1 communicator picks up the signal and tell the aftermarket head unit what button that is for it's functionality. Mine just magically worked like others have said after they do this install.

 

@455h0le_dachshund didn't you say you were about the same speedo difference and you did like 50 clicks? It sounded like an awful lot to me.

Everything you need to know is here: https://www.tundras.com/posts/3344431

Except "where to buy". Several members have gone with fleaBay/scAmazon/Temu/Alibaba ones and gotten by w/o issues for the most part. I bought OEM, and I think I have some spares floating around somewhere in dark grey.

 

Actually, if you don't have steering wheel controls currently, you may want to read this first, which is two replies up from the reply I just linked: https://www.tundras.com/posts/3344427

Kinda helps to have background info. That entire thread is there to help w/your steering wheel update/replacement/upgrade questions.

 

That is a ton of clicks! I just followed the percentage difference calc from their instructions and landed around 16 clicks initially. I did drive into work this morning and realized I was still high on my speedometer vs gps by about 1/2-1 mph at the higher speeds. I'll adjust down again a couple more clicks due to this. I'm currently at +14 clicks so then I'll be at +12 after the next adjustment. The gps speed may not be spot on but it's what I'm going by.

 

Thanks. I thought the directions you referenced said you need a different airbag that’s smaller.

 

If you have no steering wheel controls currently, your cover is larger and will require trimming. It's riveted to the bag, I believe you need to separate it to modify.

That's covered in those two links, I think the 2nd one I posted, 2nd bold heading:

• "Can I add steering wheel controls to my truck if it didn't come with them?"
  
  The general consensus is: YES. It's possible. And it doesn't use a ton of wiring, like, it's not like you need to add a new for each function. If I understand it all correctly, there are only 3 wires total to enable stereo control pass-thru (more details in reply #6 below). All the different buttons do is create resistance on those wires, and whatever is receiving them (radio or otherwise), knows "Doh! Just got X input signal, time to do Y function!"
  
  As far as wiring instructions go, you need to read the caveats below for newer/older models, but I think this explanation is the best you'll find on the internet, taken from a 2005 model truck that had nothing applicable. Very well written, lots of pictures and shows you what you're up against. It's also not a hack-job!
  
  But above and beyond that, check out this thread for instructions on one member who swapped a 2013 Prado wheel in, with all the controls functioning, with a newer model OEM radio that has all the bells and whistles.
  
  "What parts will I need for <insert year> truck?"
  
  There's some documentation on the control parts that may help, but before buying stuff, there's a larger concern you need to be aware of. Earlier trucks had equipment differences which may make your install more difficult. This is a very broad, non-specific list of caveats others have found/reported:
  • Earlier models (00-03): Your clockspring won't have the necessary pass-through to support it. Furthermore, earlier models have single stage airbags (with single stage clocksprings to support that airbag), where later models had dual stage airbag and clockspring. Your ideal situation will have you picking up everything off the donor: complete steering wheel with controls, airbag, trimmed airbag cover, cruise lever, AND the clockspring to go with it (and hope the clockspring is good). Member @daveeasa has been through that part before and may be able to comment. You'll also need to run a few wires from the firewall side of the clockspring over to the radio.
  • Later models (04+): More than one member has found Toyota pre-wired radio controls between the back side of the clockspring and the radio. If yours isn't, the last sentence from the previous bullet point may apply. You'll still need the controls (left-hand controls) with the proper multi-leg harness for cruise control, then deal with your oversized airbag cover (either replace airbag, trim the cover, try swapping the cover). If adding right-hand controls, you'll need those controls plus the white data/ribbon cable that connects the right-hand controls to the left-hand controls.

In short, no matter which year you have, in most cases, this isn't necessarily a plug-and-play process, but it's do-able! In an ideal case, you'll want to have access to a parts car where you can yoink the airbag, controls, clockspring and its harness, and the radio harnesses may be good also. The link I gave above with the parts number breakdowns has links to other websites where people have done it, so there's no shortage of reference material and ideas for you to pluck from.​

• "How do I know whether I have a single-stage or dual-stage airbag / clockspring?!"
  
  Pictures are worth a thousand words, see this reply from @BubbaW, the king of wiring/electrical info for 1st gens. Pay special attention to the last image in his reply.

 

I find the GPS speed reported by CarPlay is usually fairly spot-on with those radar things the city sets up on the side of the road in certain places. I generally trust it more than my speedo a lot of the time.

 

Each click is a +/- 1/2%. There's + button and a - button.
I'm on 35's, as such I am off by +14.4%.
Call it 14.5.
14.5x2= (+)29 clicks.

Now that I'm seeing it again, wondering if I should have gone -29 clicks instead and why Lutz didn't catch it and suggest that instead of telling me remove it immediately and send it back.

 

What size tires did you go from and to?

 

New product, maybe they're uncertain of their work because it's happened to a couple of people. You could always shoot them an email and inquire if that could've been the cause.

I was suspicious from the getgo that you may've adjusted incorrectly. It's possible the problem is confusing instructions, not part/design quality. Although I suspect the AC and DC wiring pinout may be different, I'd need to dig in the EWD to figure out if ABS sensor pins are in the same spot.

 

I think it's most likely AC vs DC.
I showed Lutz my math and I was speaking with Brian Lutz.
We already know AC vs DC RS3200 is different for some reason. Wouldn't surprise me one bit if the speedos were different too.

 

I was on stock and went to 33s. My gauge has been off 4-5 mph since I went to the 33s. I believe I adjusted slightly too far at first. After my last adjustment when I get around to it I should be dead on I'm hoping.

 

I didn't see anything like that inside the tailgate or under the truck. I'll have to take off the radio and keep trouble shooting. Which is fine, because I want to check how the climate controls are holding to the bezel. Last time I had the T3 radio bezel off, I noticed the climate controls were hanging off, due to missing screws. Which turned out to be causing a dash squeak. I put in random screws that sort of fit. But now the squeak is back. Might be time to use the gorilla glue, as I had originally intended.
But that'll have to wait til next weekend.
I'm working OT tonight and tomorrow.

 

There's an inline fuse to check, also.

From their website showing the handle for the 1GT...

1st pic is the little white connector which is ~16"-18" from the handle. Make sure it didn't get disco'd. Once this was clipped to its other side, I taped the joint (IIRC), then zip-tied the cable about 1" up on both sides so it couldn't get pulled out by accident (I think).

​

That clips to the corresponding red circle here, which is a forked wire. The yellow RCA fork/branch gets routed up to the dash. The fork/branch with the red/green/black wires and fuse holder, in a "normal" install, would go up into the passenger tail light. You need to check that fuse to make sure it didn't blow. Then check to make sure your connection with those wires is still good - the red+green should be twisted together and posi-tapped into the reverse light power wire, and the black wire posi-tapped to the reverse light ground wire.

​

 

Oh shit, I forget to check the tail light. Good call