What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Yes, superior.

 

Inferior gen. Nuff said.

 

Oh, what's that? A brand new in stock s/c kit?

 

You wouldn’t!

 

Thats where I saw that! Yea I heard it got picked clean by the scrap yard employees pretty quick! No one even had a chance!

 

I would just like better aftermarket LED projector assembly selections.

I don't have money for a 3k suspension kit or a 8k supercharger kit

 

560 HP.
I'd be lying if I haven't thought about factoring that into the price.

 

My wife’s hybrid Lexus has the original battery, from 2016!! Guess I should start looking.
The Tundra got a new battery last year I believe.

 

Yup. Threw in the 10A spare as a sanity check.

I could not get the dash gauge needle to jump around again, though I'm curious if it's because I was driving the truck around for 20-25mins straight before I got to test, and was running it for another 30-35 minutes with a 30-45 min break before that 20-25mins of runtime, so the truck was fully, fully warm.

I tried:

• Running with the GM diode installed
• Running with a 10A spare fuse installed
• Running with the 7.5A original fuse installed
• Running with no fuse installed

I had my DMM on the lines in each case to monitor output. Zero fluctuation, matching what the voltage gauge is showing in the dash. I threw the DMM in the center compartment so I can whip it out and check things again if it happens while out and about.

Meanwhile, I can confirm:

• Steady ~13.8v alt ouput with a standard fuse installed in ALT-S slot
• Steady ~14.4v output with the GM diode installed in ALT-S slot

Pics of that here

​

 

You don't frequent Bullet or Elate much I take it. You want an intercooled kit with a Harrop SC? Elate has got you covered.

 

Who's active here that's actually done this to their vvti 2uz with bullet or elate? Is the best place to find info the general supercharger thread? I occasionally scour the forum for success stories but haven't found much...

 

No, most of the posters on that thread are 2nd & 2.5 gen.

 

Wait until tomorrow morning and try it with the original 7.5A Alt-S fuse to see if you can recreate it then put it the new replacement. You'll know for sure at that time.

 

Agreed. I just haven't found a write up here for those systems on our engine...

 

Wild

 

I want a procharger.

 

I sold one to a customer years ago for his Harley. This was in Texas when I worked for Adam Smith's Texas Harley in Bedford. The guy picked it up and rode off like he was a cowboy on a bull with the front end standing damn near straight in the air. It was impressive to watch.

 

Wild fluctuations again today when I started to shuttle the kids around in for after-school stuff, with diode installed. Like, ECU was reporting out swings from 13.6v-15.2v, but sharp peaks, I only saw it hit 15 a couple of times and it was like 100ms or less. So not the fuse. But also not clear if it was a loose terminal/bad connection. I'm suspicious of the aftermarket Stinger terminal at the moment.

Got to a place I could pull over, popped the hood, seems like voltage was solid at the battery terminal, interestingly, I was seeing fluctuation when touching my probe on the crimped ring end of the the fusebox-to-battery line, but found something else too...

Removed ground terminal, cleaned and sanded inside, loosened, adjusted, retightened the batt-to-chassis ground at the fender. Grabbed the damn positive cable and the fucker shifted. Wasn't fully tight. I pulled the alt-to-batt and fusebox-to-batt terminal ends, sanded the shit out of them, new dielectric grease, re-fastened, then wrenched down that terminal again, got another 3/4 turn out of its lock screw.

Where I was seeing 0.3-0.4v fluctuations yesterday during normal operations, after doing what I did, I'm consistently at 14.3-14.4v. I dunno if it was the terminal, the ground, or the cable ends that were problematic, but at this point, I'm going to get rid of this Stinger battery terminal, update both terminals with another set I've got, and I think I'm going to replace the fusebox-to-batt cable with something heftier, since it's a basic 16-19" cable.

I may re-terminate the alt-to-batt line also, if I don't replace it entirely. I want to inspect those wires first, see if I see anything crazy, figure out what gauge they are, and see if I can measure them out.

I've had a pair of these Recoil BTO brass terminals in the shop. I may swap out everything with these. I really do hate the allenhead terminal screw for tightening though.

 

You know, I think I may just buy the ones @KNABORES got. Fuck it. @KNABORES did you get the 0/4/8/10 terminals or the 2/4/8/10 terminals? EDIT: Looks like the 0/4/8/10 based on the pattern of the set screws.

$10 TONDA Battery Terminals, 0/4/8/10 Gauge Battery Terminal Connectors with Shims and Protective Covers, Car Cable Ends, 1 pair

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CF1S61MW

​

 

Should've bought the kit I sold to that other Amarillo dude. There's always URD with some modifications. Or just have Jake fab you the bracket.

Got the tires on this afternoon.
The weights on the old rears rubbed the driver caliper but it self clearanced after 10 minutes. I also swapped the old black lugs for the new chrome ones that came with the wheels, for a little pop.

I forgot who asked about it a few weeks ago, but it's still shiney.

 

Looks great but doesn't "self-clearancing" mean the weight no longer reflects the imbalance accurately?

 

Likely correct. Or the caliper lost some material. Whichever metal lost the fight.

 

Might not be a bad idea to give balancing beads a try. Mine seem to be doing their job well. I also have one of those brackets in the parts pile now, but only because I got it through a FBM deal.

 

Replaced my headlights yesterday. Old ones were totally clear on the front, but the plastic on the back was super brittle. Already had one of the bulb retaining springs break off, fixed it by drilling a small hole and using safety wire. My lights were also sitting pretty high every since I lifted the truck with new suspension. In this photo they're adjusted almost all the way down, raised them up some later in the evening after driving around and realizing they were aimed about the same as my fog lights. I think I need to swap out my corner lights now for ones that aren't so dark.

Also started on the wiring for my winch. Got the relay for the power to the winch installed, needed a longer lead to connect it to the battery, that'll show up tomorrow, still have to cut a mounting plate out of some 1/4" aluminum sheet for the controller to mount to the bumper and then I should be able to hook everything up. Hopefully get that all done Saturday morning before the rain starts up again.

 

Guarantee you those lead weights lost that battle. Considering how big of a pile of wheel weights they had to put on there, have you considered going with something like these? I forget who posted them, but I know I saw them linked on here.
https://centramatic.com/

 

Honestly, the shop who stacked up the weights like that is stupid. Unless that rim is damaged, they should've rotated the tire and re-balanced, no?

 

First I've heard of these options. More research in coming.

 

I mean I got those tires in Dallas from a Mexican tire shop cash only. They mount n balanced em. Today was at similar shop but in my home town.

 

Lifeguard and I both are using 8 oz checkered flag brand but I'm sure they're all the same. A lot less time consuming if you have the tire shop throw them in there during tire installation like I did, or if you're motivated to pop the bead. Rusty and lifeguard did it with the tires mounted by pushing the valve stem inside the tire and capturing the valve stem inside the tire. Otherwise you have to remove the schrader valve and push 'em through the valve stem.

$36 Checkered Flag Tire Beads - Premium Tire Balancing Beads, Suitable for Motorcycles, Semis, Trucks, 4x4 Trailers - Efficient Wheels & Tire Balancer, Long-Lasting Durability | (6) 8oz Bags, 48oz/Set

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B5B6LXZQ