What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

THANKS YOU

 

Had some running to do: memo to type and print out at the library, bill to pay, etc. On the way back I chopped another mowing client out of the ice. His porch steps looked more like a steep ice ramp! SMH.

All clear now.

Ran over to the car wash....short on cash but a guy I spoke with about the credit card thingy just handed me $4.00 in cash! He refused any sort of trade.

Driver's side door was partially frozen to the running board! It hasn't been opening enough to let me get in or out, I've been climbing over from the passenger side.

Once back home I used a blow dryer. THIS is what came out. (It's about 60% of what was keeping the door shut).

 

An ice scraper/chopper should knock that off easily

 

I literally "laughed out loud."

That chunk was frozen solidly into the space. I tried to chop at it. Not only would the door not open far enough to allow much of a "chop" that thing is solid.

(Was solid, it's now part of the hot water in a bowl I put it into down in the sink).

***
Edit: maybe it's not easy to understand: that chunk was on the inside, not outside of the door. It was literally below the hinge of the door. There was no "knocking it off" as it wasn't on anything, it was inside the door jamb, between the front of the door and the inside of the cab where the inside front of the door closes to.

I apologize for not being more clear. I really should buy a camera....

 

Use the right tool, like the one you should be using on clients steps

 

Maybe we need a separate thread for every trailer towed and yard mowed by B2P and keep this one for what people actually did to their FGTs maintenance and repair wise.

 

I understand I am not providing proper context that most are used to (pics and video of everything) but that wouldn't have worked in either case.

*Edit: the ice on my door was not "on" the truck but inside the door jamb. I assume that 25 hours of freezing rain we got 7 days ago froze at the bottom of the door jamb, then built up and froze as it went, filling the space when the door was shut. I assume I have some sort of weatherstrip failure going on.

No scraper can fit in there and no one is breaking up solid ice and where would the chips go? The void was already filled.

As for porch steps....we are dealing with up to 20 inches of solid ice. Bottom steps completely covered and now level with the ice covering the ground. I broke through 12 inches or more of ice on each step today. Concrete steps, not wood. I would not (unless the client demanded it) chop ice on a wooden step. No one is scraping that much ice off.

This is what I am using to break people out of the ice. It seems to do a good job.



Once the ice is broken into chunks, I then shovel it out with this: coal shovel. A "snow shovel" especially if the blade is plastic, simply cannot hold the weight of the ice chunks. The blade has to be steel.



As soon as I get my clothes out of the dryer, the wife is joining me. We will be breaking up ice by the light of porch lights. I need to get this lady broke out tonight as I have an elderly couple with an even longer driveway (dirt and grass) to break out tomorrow.

**Well we did it! This is what the mattock is for.



I'm not chopping on cars with these tools, just chopping the ice out-of-the way. In this client's case her car has so much ice on the windshield, even two hours of defrosting did not make a dent. Heat gun? IDK.

 

I've wondered the same thing but then I see a pic in this thread of a Tundra at a campsite.

 

Installed the proper badging.

 

Ha, for a Mercedes

 

Heck yeah! I want a ride sometime haha

 

Yeah, too much for the Tundra. During a ten mile drive, a couple of F250s and a 4x4 GMC pulled up beside me and then zoomed past - triggered, I guess.

I removed the word this morning.

 

Much needed bath! Oldy but goodie! Hard to beat these trucks

 

About to change the metal brake line portion and have a question. Fairly sure I’ll need to bleed this caliper afterwards but do I need to bleed the entire system as well?

 

No, as long as the master cylinder doesn’t drain out, bleeding one side will work. At least it did for me.

Use a rubber vacuum cover or depress the brake to keep any fluid from dripping out after the line is removed.

 

Thanks

 

Jack Mc is correct... I'll add that you can open the bleeder valve and keep adding fluid to the master cylinder until the air is gone and have very little bleeding to do. Let gravity do your work.

 

Somewhat reluctantly, I listed my tundra for sale today. I’ll probably have some 1st gen parts to list for sale as well.

 

Toyota needs to double check the fitment of that part cause it was like an inch off. Had to bend a good amount for it to fit. Not sure if I was able to refill before the res drained fully.

 

Wasn’t it just dripping out? I’m surprised it went that low so quickly.

 

Like a drip per second and it took me a while to bend the part into the right place.

brake pedal seems firm after bleeding that one caliper. Guessing that means no air in the lines?…

 

That’s how mine felt. Just drive it up and down the street with nobody in your way and give it a quick panic stop to be sure.

 

Are you looking at something else in place of it?

 

https://www.tundras.com/threads/things-to-know-when-buying-a-2-5-gen.168384/

 

Noooooooooooooo………



























but uh, what’s up with them F5s

 

Hopefully somebody that wants a pretty nice first gen will like it.

 

Yup. Looking for a 2.5 gen tundra.