What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Buying refurbs from someone such as FreeLanceFab or the like is the best route. All OEM/Koyo and great customer service. I paid ~ $1,100-1,200 for mine but that's only because I didn't send my old ones back. I wanted to have an extra set.

Edit: once our trucks need spindles/front bearings, it's best to replace all other components. Tie rods, etc. It's a system, and having all components in-spec reduces and/or eliminates guess-work.

It's not cheap owning an older vehicle, but, if due diligence is done, it still beats owning a newer model, all things being equal .

 

A best gen tundra is like a good dog. If you’re a cat person, you better buy new. I’ll trade my first born to keep my truck ticking.

 

Know anyone who may be interested in a 1st gen, Casey? I'll be coming through DFW soon.

 

Nice cherries but I dig those smoked tail lights

 

long bed? Doesn’t know what he’s got, cheap? Maybe.

 

Yes, long bed acess cab. Definitely longer than my 2010 CrewMax. Lol.

 

Installed a cheap AZ economy battery to get it running for awhile.

 

@shifty` or anyone else that has put the ATS HD pack in their trucks, did you notice an increase in “Toyota Lean” after installing them?

I was running a 1/4” shim on the driver’s side front to even it out with the stock springs, and it did a very good job. But after putting the ATS springs in with a full tank of gas, I’m right back to sitting an inch lower on the driver’s side even with that shim still in place.

Am I overthinking it? Should I take the OEM shackle off the drivers side leaf and put the ATS one in? Should I brave the heinous cold this weekend to find my extra U-bolt set and swap the leafs from one side to the other just to see?

Am I just being neurotic and everyone else is happily living with the slight lean that our trucks develop?

 

Nope. No lean at all, actually.

 

Maybe @The Black Mamba wants a 2nd rig?

 

Smoked LED's look good with the DRL's on. I'm toying with the idea of tinting them red and reinstalling, but we'll see. Main gripe is the reverse light reflector is black so the light output is horrendous.

 

just went outside and measured the gap from the wheel to the fender and it’s the same on both sides somehow. I think I’m just going insane and no surface I park on in the greater Houston area is actually level.

 

I blame it on your ditch jumping hobby

 

I just installed my new ATS HD spring packs about a month ago. I’d go out and check to see if i have a lean, but it’s not enough of a big deal to me if i have one or not.

 

Sheeeit, if that's how it works, I'll get to work on a 'first born', right away.

 

He's saving for 4wd conversion and TVS1320 supercharger.
Don't try to derail that train.

 

I have candy red VHT and chrome duct tape. Did something similar to my 99 and 03 tacos.

 

Sounds like the leafs are swapped from side to side. Several manuafuacturerers make the driver side leaf pack taller to compensate for gas tank

 

ATS claims the leafs are identical for both sides on the HDs, but I never did measure to see if one of mine had more arch than the other.

 

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Thanks everyone for the advice! Overwhelming consensus is to fix it. I just got a bit overwhelmed, but the only thing that actually needs to happen right away is the timing belt/fan bracket. I can tackle the rest over time.

 

Yea I agree with everyones advice too. If i was in your shoes I would definitely be fixing it and keeping it! Good luck man

 

Yeah Archive Garage says the same thing, but also says if one is taller, to use it on the driver side. I had one that was like a 0.25" taller. So I used it on driver side.

 

Makes sense; gas tank is heavy.

Getting that front mount bolt out with proximity to the gas tank is a lot of fun.

 

Gas tank is indeed heavy. Me and @Sirfive helped @VR6T change his fuel pump, after dumbass put $10 worth of fuel in it, to drive an hour to Casey's compound.

I had more trouble getting it in.

 

Just when I thought I had once and for all solved this issue...
God damn muddy water

So now do I remove the cap and bed rail caps and really go to town?
Or do I just put a bead of silicone along the outter edge of the bed cap, and just glop roll-on bedliner under the frame rails in the bed?

 

Thx. I'll post a formal ad once my post count is up. If anyone is interested in the meantime they can hmu in a dm. The truck is currently garaged here in Ohio. Definitely not going to find a rust-free unit like it around here.

I would do it right and remove the cap. One and done.

 

Yeah that's what I'm thinking. Remove everything and rubber coat it with flex seal or something

 

$29 3M Marine Adhesive Sealant Fast Cure 4200 (06560) – Semi-Permanent Flexible Adhesive Sealant for Boats and RVs, White, Flexible Bonds, Underwater-Safe, 295 mL Cartridge

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001QWN8VE

 

Just slather that on the metal bed rails and stick the plastic caps back on?