What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Tequila Customs OEM replacements with clear corners.....love them.

 

Thanks!

 

TEQ not tequila lol

 

I had to do that one very recently. Crazy how such a little thing could make so much noise.

 

Did your new one have a little bit of wobble to it?

 

when i replaced moms, in her sequoia, it was squeaky, and the bearings felt chunky, but no wobble. I’ve still got it somewhere. The paint was worn on one side of the pulley, more than the other.

 

Late to answer.. but my rust bucket red 4WD had several crossmembers replaced. They used bolts and nuts. Had the bed off when doing it.. Weld the rivet..

 

Felt some funkyness while in 4x4 on snow covered road. Checked camber, was NOT where I set it (something moved). Back story, Pre forum repairs Movtech LCA, and Moog cambolts. So I reset my camber/Tack welded each front cambolt washer/Adjusted outer tie rods to re-centered the steering wheel.(string method)
Good news was no apparent slop in the fresh MovtechSupreme outer tie rods yet, and with 350ish miles the jam nuts were easy peasy.

Also replaced front door speakers with a set of pioneers, which sounded like hot garbage.
Just cheap

$25 TS-F1634R 6.5” 2-Way Speakers (Pair) – 200W Max, Balanced Sound + Smooth Treble, Great Stock Replacement, High-Efficiency Speaker Designed for OEM Power

TS-F1634R. I run no sub, and no amp.
They listed a decent low freak range, but driving them at even half volume with my Alpine UTE-73BT sounded like I was trying to run 500 watts through them. Already returned them to big girl.
So I put the stock ones back in after I gave them a coating of PVA polyvinyl acetate/ AKA watered down gorilla glue to strengthen them back up. They were dry and brittle, It seemed to help, but it could be just one of those mental things.
I chalk it up to experience, and the fact that I'm just not dumping premium anything into this rig.

No hacking of the harness, I soldered the new ones in, and then the stock ones back in again.


Stock before


And after 2 coats of PVA (if you do this stay OFF the surround)

 

There are a looooot of component options out there ~$100 ....

With 6¾" mid-woofer:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_575R1675S/Rockford-Fosgate-R1675-S.html?tp=106

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_301K170/Hertz-K-170.html?tp=106
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With 6½" mid-woofer

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_109CT601C/JBL-601CF.html?tp=106​

 

What does the pva do? Make em last longer? Stiffer?

 

Finally got around to buying some new sway bar links and got them installed today. The worst part about this was #1 the top nut on old links was a biotch on passenger side just enough rust on threads to make it difficult for a small impact so I just ended up using a long 17 mm ratcheting wrench. Man the old ones were either too short or the bushings being torched caused some carnage. Hopefully this takes care of a little clank I've been hearing now and again when backing out of the drive. To windy and cold to hear today...

 

Ditch the sway bar, we have a no sway bar club

 

Thanks for the ideas. My door cards don't have the tweeter option, not that I wouldn't carve holes in them.
I did it before on a brand new Accord.... that was a little cringe worthy, but I LOVED those things up there.
Crispy sound stage, esp for my hearing... which at that time was Much better haha.
If things are TOO nice I'll just end up moving them to the next rig I reckon
I didn't look close, but does that raised ring on the face of the stock speaker seal up against the door card?
Still baffled why those new ones sounded So Bad

Yeah, both. They were so dry and almost dusty, and you can see the UV that got to them through the grate.
I think it also adds a level of moisture protection as well.
I didn't know what to use, I just started hammering Ai with questions about products I had on hand.
At the time I had no idea what PVA was, or that it was sitting right next to me (Gorilla wood glue)

 

I been running Sony 6.75" speakers all four corners in the 06. They were relatively cheap and sound damn good with my Pioneer AVH.
Got em from Wally world

 

Does the extra 1/4" take some modifications, or just plop right in?
Do you remember the model number?
Remember I don't have an amp.

 

No to the part number and no modifications. This was in 2019 when I installed em.
I didn't have an eternal amp with em on my Pioneer AVH-601EX.

I do have the 5 channel amp in the 06 now, since I put that AVH601EX into the 03 and had an AVH-4000NEX with a blown amp. (Botched JBL premium audio amp bypass killed the Pioneer's internal amp, when the bypass harness got stabbed with floor trim screw).

 

Knew this was coming! Maybe I'll test in the spring winds and higher center of gravity on shit winter roads has me nervous about it lol. I did think about it though. Do I get a sticker for the club?

 

I regularly haul well over 1 ton in my bed. I removed my swaybar a few years ago.

 

for you it won’t do anything. In the heat the surrounds are the first to go. Mine turned into little fish food size flakes I’m guessing 5-10 years ago.

It’s important to get something easy to drive if you aren’t upgrading the HU, but even cheap and easy to drive speakers are a massive improvement over stock Toyota.

 

On this subject, is anyone running OME 2884 coils in the front with the swaybar disconnected? I've seen people talk about running 700# springs and ditching the bar, but not a more intermediate spring like the 2884 that sits between OEM and the stiffer options.

 

Sold my old sliders I built a couple years ago and went to the metal yard and got some more scrap metal to build up some new ones.

I wanted something simpler that weighed less but still gave me some protection from underneath. I havent really done enough "rock crawling" to warrant the weight and size of the typical sliders that I previously had.

So I built some simple single tube style ones with 1.5" square tubing. Hopefully I dont dent my doors on the next trip, or at the grocery store lol.

 

Just reinforcing a point, seems the stock opening for our trucks was actually to 6¾".

No amp is fine. If you want a bit more boost, go with components that have a 3ohm load, I know JBL and Infinity have options, I find Infinity speakers to be too shrill/tinny.

No clue on why the new ones sounded so bad. Also, not sure if that cardboard ring is intented to seal to the door or not, but mine are fine without.

I'd almost prefer to not have tweeters in the door, so I could re-jigger things, mount the tweeters in my A-pillar pods, and keep the mids down in the doors. Would make for easier/better sound staging.

But if you were to go OEM-like and convert your door, a tip: If you find Toyota left no indication of the tweeter position (embossed area, etc.) on the plastic of the back side of that panel, then cut a cardboard template shaped with some reference points on the backside of the door, something you can easily transfer between doors (flip/flop). Mark your center point, and holesaw your hole diameter based on your tweeter option. Go slow, let the hole saw pop your center hole thru the fabric on the other side, but stop your cut before going you start pushing thru, so the fabric remains fullyintact on the interior-facing side. You can use a dull non-fabric-cutting implement (snips, bone shears, etc) to finish the job the hole saw started.

Once it's done, take scissors and cut an "X" in the fabric from the center hole the pilot makes, out to 2-3mm from the hole edge. Leaving that extra couple mm of fabric before the edge of the hole, and not blasting thru with the drill will serve multiple purposes:

• The fabric will never pull back away from the hole or tweeter basket, exposing the door plastic
• You'll get a smooth transition from tweeter to fabric
• You should be able to avoid buckling, because the tweeter basket will hold the fabric in the hole
• The tweeter basket should have a more-snug fit thanks to the fabric shimming out the hole a bit

It's ultimately how we'd handle things with new door cards at the shop. Sometimes when creating the "X", we'd knock down the four triangles it'd make, so there wasn't fabric flapping around, and one of the guys in the shop would just glue the triangles back to the door panel because he hated cutting things.

I wish someone made A-pillar tweeter pods pre-fit to our trucks, but fat chance. No demand. In a 4-speaker truck like yours, with the base radio, no amp, if I were to throw tweeters in the pillar, I'd de-pin the two speaker wires where the door harness snaps in behind the kick panels, pop their input wires into a new connector, and use that to feed the crossover, then feed the door speaker out of the crossover via the other pair I de-pinned, and feed directly up into the A-pillar for the tweeter...

 

I like the couple extra logs on the roof rack...don't want to waste a trip!

 

TS F1634R/$25/88db/4Ω/31 Hz – 16 kHz/sounded like shite. Not better than stock... YMMV

 

Great tips. I am running an Alpine UTE-73BT, not the stock head unit. 50W x 4 MOSFET amplifier (18W RMS x 4), so low end stuff.

 

Believe it or not, that's more powerful than my W770, which is currently powering all six of my speakers, my OEM amp is bypassed. Specs on my ilx W770 per Crutchfield (Alpine also lists the peak 50x4 power, this is RMS):

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Only worth mentioning, speaker composition varied across year/cab/stereo option. Some had UV-friendly, robust surrounds. Some were susceptible to dry rot. It varies.

My OEM speakers in the later-year AC trucks with premium (but not JBL) audio was a woven coated fabric, mine were fully intact, and whatever they coated the fabric with was still very pliable. Pictures of mine after 15+ years in the south are here: https://www.tundras.com/posts/2336915
Note the front ones are sunbleached (right speaker here) to hell because my previous owner parked the truck outdoor in the sun, all day, every day. Surrounds are still mint. The other ones look like new, from the rear doors.

The JBL systems in later-year trucks used a pure foam surround that dryrots and turns to dust.

I've seen one other style of OEM speaker in our trucks that also crumbles. But in general, if you have the fabric-backed surrounds, they hold up exceptionally well.

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yeah, I dunno. Those don’t seem crazy sensitive despite being marketed for stock replacements. The ones shifty sent are more in the 92db range which I look for without an amp.

To try to be more helpful, I put these in a Honda Odyssey a few years ago, it was a “be done in an evening” project, no custom a pillars or anything, and I was really surprised at how much better they sounded without touching the head unit, but they also advertise a 93db sensitivity rating.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-bZBGyou4SJD/p_108R607FSL/Infinity-Reference-REF607FSL-shallow-mount.html

I couldn’t care less about brand loyalty, the specs were good. Went with JL audio last time.