What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Gotcha, much easier to fix then.

 

Drives so much nicer with the four wheel camper off. Cleans up good too.

 

I like that what’s your setup?

 

6112s on... 6/5 clips? 650lb springs. 5100s read with stock springs and Firestone/Daystar setup. No air in bags here.

Front is still about 1" lower than rear.

@FNWheels Overlander Spec A in gunmetal metallic with Yokohama G018s in LT265/70R17

I should have grabbed a better photo without the camper but it's on a lot these days.

 

While you guys were busy with LBJs and LCAs, I took the easy route and did DBMs.

[/ATTACH]

 

This is apparently not a HVAC knob but a push button. Had to reorder using part number #

$18 55905-0C010 559050C010 Air Conditioning Climate Control Knob Button

55905-0C010. Looks like not all the part number diagrams are correct or describe things correctly. What a PIA.

 

My daughter has a 2001 Tundra, but she lives far away. Suddenly, her key would no longer turn in the ignition. Diagnosing remotely, I suggested that she go to the dealer and get a new key to VIN. The resulting key did not work anywhere on the truck, not the ignition, or either door. Hmmm...may the PO re-keyed? Regardless, she got it to turn with a liberal application of WD40. But OMG, check out the original key on the right! I'm surprised it works at all!

 

Tell her to go back to the dealership. I had my local dealer cut me a new key but they had me test it in the parking lot. It barely worked on my door and then wouldn't work on my ignition.They had to cut me another key using a different machine. They claimed it was some $10,000 lazer machine. Like they were doing me some favor. If the machine is so fancy, why not use it from the start?

Anyways, I'm not sure that WD-40 is recommended for ignition? Think they make a dry lube. Either way, the dealer needs to make her a key that actually works.

 

Sticker time approachith.

 

That new key looks wrong with more material being cut away. Should be less.

Maybe a blank will work?

 

that’s about what I’m running idk why but for some reason your truck looks bigger than mine, tires too maybe the angle of the picture. Looks great

 

I can taste 300k.
It's sweet, with a hint of

 

Well this was an experience I'm in no hurry to repeat. I got notified of a delivery so I jumped in the Tundra, backed out of the garage, and promptly slide backwards all the way down the driveway, with zero control. Fortunately there were deep frozen tire tracks in the road and they stopped me. I hate Winter.

 

Mounted chase lights into the rear bumper since my softopper blocks my Baja designs at the third brake light. This was way more work than it was worth. Really wanted it here but the bumper brackets were right behind the lights. Lot of notching later and here we are.

 

You wanna hit Wolf Caves Jan 24?

 

I turned my engine into a beer bong.

 

You know I don’t have skids and sliders lol

 

I got about halfway through changing the driver's side valve cover gasket today on my 2001 4.7L 2WD Access Cab w/ 202k miles. Most of the time was spent carefully cleaning so as not to drop anything in the valve train. Assembly tomorrow.

Any thoughts on why the driver's side would be noticeably more oil-stained (especially towards the rear) than the passenger's side?



I did the passenger's side about 2 weeks ago. They were both leaking pretty bad which has been causing my steering rack bushings to disintegrate so I ordered a new set and will be changing those as soon as they arrive.

 

Not sure, but mine is the same way.

 

But you got a Softopper. You can camp and drive around some easy stuff and ride with me on some harder stuff. Don't be scared. I bet @Sirfive would go.

 

Dunno, but I can tell you, something about the design of the heads/valve covers also causes more varnishing on the driver side heads than the passenger. I've noticed, after seeing the guts on dozens of our V8s, the passenger side is, as you see in your pic, pretty evenly colored. Driver side is almost always varnished around cylinder 7, half as varnished around cylinder 5, then hardly any varnish as you proceed past cylinders 3 and 1. Best guess, it has something to do with the PCV valve (only the driver side has one) and how moisture collects in the valve cover (driver side, I suspect moist air rests up in the oil fill tube, that moisture migrates back down toward the back of the head to help varnish set).

I'm no engine builder, it's purely a guess. But no clue on the quantity. PCV valve only being on driver side may lend to different pressures in each bank, maybe there's more/less pressure in the driver's side bank due to the PCV valve layout.

 

Pcv valve is on the drivers side.

 

Did you ever get back to your wheel bearings?

 

I don’t do well on the sidelines lol. I wind up saying f it and then earning more than than pin stripes. But I’ll be at a wedding that weekend so no dice.

 

I'm waiting for my mechanic to come pick up Donut to free up the driveway. I'm about to just pay to have it towed somewhere else. I think I texted him on the 13th and it's still sitting there.

 

Mf'R! This sounds exactly like what my truck does. Guess I'm ordering some of these to throw on while I do the rack. Been on the fence about what brand and all to buy. Did you get the black or red? I can't remember what the difference is off hand.

 

Got those new spark plug seals installed...it went significantly more smoothly than on the passenger's side. Here's what I did:

32mm socket
Rubber mallet

I made sure to bend the tabs back a bit more and then applied a thin coat of grease to the outside of the seal and to the race on the valve cover. Got them started by hand as centered as possible and then literally walked around them in a circle tapping them in bit by bit. The 32mm doesn't quite fit perfectly on the driving surface (it's a bit small) so I focused on one spot at a time rather than centering the socket and just wailing on it. I'd hit it 2-3 times with medium force, just enough to notice movement, then step to the next position in the circle. After going around 3-4 times the seal was seated.

When I bent the tabs back I used a 1/4" extension and the same rubber mallet.



I cleaned up the bolts and half-moons and put new washer-seal things on the bolts (now that I look at the photo, I think I missed a tiny bit of the FIPG on one half-moon...will get that):



One thing I did while removing things & cleaning the mating surface on the head was I taped up the fuel injector wire for the forward cylinder. It was hanging down and was kinda in the way when I went to remove the PCV hose. It made things a lot easier. Unfortunately the original wire wraps are super brittle and falling apart so now the individual wires are exposed. I'll probably wrap them up when I'm done.

(forward is to the left in the photo)



Not in a rush so I'm taking a break and will finish later - I want to do the next chunk all in one session due to the FIPG cure time.

 

Get the 333 Fab billet clamp while you’re in there too. Color doesn’t matter but red looks cooler.

 

Gusseting the rack mounts > shiny clamps