What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Check the vapor barrier on your door too. Apply fresh butyl rubber if it's worn out or coming off the door. This is a common way for water to enter vehicles.

 

Cant remember what they are called but you slide them through a hole and they bend and lock into place when they’re tightened down.

 

The headliner was wet. Figured had to be the rack bolts. Man I silicone sealed those fkrs good too

 

I've also got a leak I have to find. I took my truck to the car wash to clean the undercarriage for the 4th time since my last HF trip. I noticed some mud streaks on the carpet in my truck bed. I was getting all in the folds, so I suspect it's the bed rails where they meet the plastic caps.

Any ideas how to seal that?

I thought about caulking under the metal bed rails from inside and laying a bead outside where the bedside meats the plastic caps.

 

I get leaks around the bed rails where the stake holes are. Been thinking about pulling the caps and getting the rails bed lined and figuring out a better solution for sealing the holes.

 

Bought an "open box" Wolfbox G850 dash/reverse cam. It is currently $56 which is $10 cheaper than when I purchased it 2 weeks ago. I quickly wired it up without tucking wires away. Everything looked brand new out of the box. I still need to get the bracket that installs on the rearview mirror mount on the windshield. I bought a 3D printed clip on Etsy to mount the reverse cam to the headliner. Resolution is 4k dashcam and 2k reverse cam. There is an app to download video files but I haven't installed it yet. Swipe to switch between front , rear, and split screens. Seems decent so far.


https://ebay.us/m/yfvIeM

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1861264798/abs-rear-camera-or-dash-cam-mount-rear?ref=share_v4_lx

$29 WOLFBOX OEM Bracket for USB C G900 Tripro/G900PRO/G850PRO/G840S/G840H/G850/G900 Mirror Dash cam

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BN31MBZP

 

I like using rubber washers under exterior boltheads, with a dab of butyl.

 

I've got my steak pockets capped and my hard topper goes over the rails. I guess bedlining over the caps would work though. I may use flex seal for under the bed tops metal. I'm just going to have to pull the bed rug to deep clean it anyways.

 

Spent the week in interior BC, and there are very few old vehicles out and about, and no nice ones. Only saw one 1GT.

Came home and thoroughly rinsed the entire truck, did underbody spray and touch less wash. Checked a bunch of fluids, got my grease gun back so I did all the zerks...

Tomorrow I will hand wash, maybe clay and coat if I have time..

Lastly. Does anybody know what these little squares are that cover the large holes on the rockers? I've got one missing...



Maybe tomorrow I'll do my projector retrofit too...

 

Got my alignment done after installing my front lift over the weekend. Adjuster cams are rusted solid, so this was the best they could do. I brought them the recommended measurements, but that wasn't happening. They also tried upselling me on a replacement CV axle because they saw some grease from one of my boots. I know there was some old grease under there, I'm going to double check tomorrow and see if any of the boots are actually torn. Sure as hell am not installing a Les Schwab CV axle.

@assassin10000 thoughts?

 

They were there on mine when I bought my truck new 24 years ago, so they were either installed by the manufacturer or at the port/distribution point where they put on my OEM side steps. I have no clue where to buy comparable replacements though; sorry I can't assist.

 

Do NOT let them upsell you on any CV stuff, especially not their crappy shit which isn't even worth what yours is as a core.

I can't speak to how those camber measurements will impact tire wear, but the toe and caster look good to me.

 

Don't worry, I only use Les Schwab for alignments because they're 5 minutes from my house. I won't use their tires, much less any other automotive part they want to sell me.

 

The one near me melted my CV boot trying to do an alignment, and then they wouldn't replace the axle with a Toyota one, even after they said they would. They then told me they would re boot it with an OEM kit, they did not... They used cheap foam, and tied it on with chicken wire instead of a band clamp.

I have a special hate for those guys. I wouldn't even let them do an alignment.

 

That sounds totally on par for them. Sorry they screwed up your truck. I'm going to be doing an oil change on mine tomorrow and I'll check what they did under there. They did say they tried using heat, so wouldn't be surprised if they melted mine too.

 

Oh god. I hope not

 

I didn't realize y'all had rust issues that far west

 

My 2015 Tacoma had frozen camb bolts. My 2006 Tundra turned freely last year...

Kind of a tossup depending maybe on how much mountain driving you do... The DOT still use brine in snowy areas, just not major metros and suburbs as they almost never see snow.

 

I’m sure the ice storms are fun…

https://youtube.com/shorts/qEchnuRItvo?si=OXBRPPeDilV7n41t

 

Portland and Seattle car slippage videos are a staple!

Never had the slippage happen personally but it's a weather phenomenon that is influenced by local geography. Cold air east of the mountains pours out low valleys like the Columbia river and Frasier river, called outflows, sometimes Snoqualmie pass too. Then the cold air pools under warm rain off the ocean. Even if it's "just" snow it's so wet and we lack infrastructure to mitigate, plus the hills... Always a show!

 

Toe set only. Do not like.

You're positive on the camber with slightly excessive toe in, that's gonna lead to outside edge tire wear.


Unfortunately you have seized adjusters, so it is what it is.

This is where some spc uppers would shine. Well if they know what to do with them.

 

Yeah, I doubt they do and I went with JBA UCAs.

I Checked my last alignment I had done at the same shop 5 months ago when I did my LBJs, and same thing. Castor was 2.9º and 2.8º and they didn't adjust them then either. So either they've been frozen solid for a while or they only spend a couple minutes on them and move on and say that they're stuck. Neither would surprise me at this point. I'll bang on them tomorrow and see if they need to be cut out, or if they do move and I need to find a new shop to do alignments.

 

What brand of silicone did you use, and did it have acetic acid in it? My favorite sealant is Yamabond 6B. I’m also not really a big fan of riv-nuts in a roof. I think they can cause too much of a change of leaks. I MUCH prefer through bolting using oversize fender washers and nylock nuts. Of course i slather the holes and threads with that Yamabond first. It’s been holding up great in a different roof rack for the past 10+ years.

 

Related to that, had a lot of mud come over the roof earlier and some leaked through the door near the top, I assume that's a bad door seal. Also I get a lot of wind noise through the door seals. Would butyl rubber help and would you cut out the old door seal in the problem areas or add the butyl rubber to the seals?
Thanks

 

Just adding a point: You know it has acetic acid if it smells vinegary/tart. You don't want to use it on automotive paint or bare metal if it smells like that.

Some sling* after lift is normal. I eventually ended up shredding my factory CV axle boots. I'm about to install some SealSavers and a couple packs of grease once this cold front moves along, to tie me over for a while.

 

thanks for adding in the details on the acetic acid.

 

I didn't do it but the guys at the shop fixed me up (no way I'm crawling under the truck at 27 degrees with 15mph winds). I was heading up the highway this morning and went to pass a truck when suddenly things got quite a bit louder. Drove over to the shop and asked my friends if they could put it up on the lift and at least let me know what had blown and how bad it was. Well,,, this was a new one on me, the left side downstream O2 sensor had blown out of the hole, wrapped around the driveshaft and yanked the electrical plug out. Fortunately the harness wasn't damaged. Weird. Sorry, no pics, customers not allowed under the lift.

 

Any damage to the threads in the exhaust? Any dents or kinks in the rest of the exhaust that could cause that much pressure to build up?

 

Yeah, I'd just looked at both sides while under the truck and they were fine. Even told them the reason for the alignment was new UCAs, springs, and shocks, as well as giving them a printout of the numbers I wanted. They didn't give the mechanic the paper with the numbers until he was half done, I doubt they told him the reason for the alignment, and I'm sure they give these mechanics tight time limits for each job. Maybe 5 minutes tops to try and break loose stuck fasteners, write up quotes for any parts that they can try to get you to come back to have replaced, and get you out the door. They only had my truck for maybe 20 minutes. I really need to find a better shop for alignments. Everyone I ask always tells me that they used to have a really good shop, but it's closed now, owner retired.

 

No, this is one of those goofy ones that has the sensor threaded into a plate that is then attached with 2 small bolts. The plate is still attached but the sensor is gone. Nothing bent, dented, or kinked in the exhaust.