What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

we saw a twister during the first panhandlemonium. I call that a tornado, but it was small.

 

That was a microburst. I lost a trampoline to one of those once.

 

I've got my eye.on these speedway blue XRunners. Wanna buy Elvira? She's getting fresh oil tomorrow.

I wonder how difficult it would be to convert the 5 lugger to a 6 lugger from a prerunner, so I could keep my FNW BFDs.

 

Can you all teach me about when to use anti seize? I replaced my struts when I bought the truck 5 years ago and the lower strut mounting bolt was a piece of cake to remove, now it's seized. Also the alignment bolts one on side are seized and the inner and outer tie rod ends. Should I have anti seized all of those?

 

We had one go thru a couple of years ago, it took my next door neighbor's patio table and umbrella and put it up on the roof of his house.

 

You just need to get something like a bottle of nickel anti-seize and put it in the sleeves for the bushings on both the shock and LCAs. You can also put it on the shock bolt and the CAM sleeves that slide inside the LCA bushings. That will help you out a lot. Rear shocks can be a PIA too occasionally like mine where I had to cut them out with a whizzer cutting tool.

Here’s an example but you can find it cheaper online:
https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/permatex/permatex-8-ounce-anti-seize-lubricant/per0/77124

 

Thanks! Is there a general rule of thumb on when to use anti seize? Any metal to metal other than the nut on a bolt?

 

Basically metal on metal and any nuts/bolts exposed to the elements.

High temps I think you need copper anti-seize. Just look for what temp it’s rated for on the bottle.

 

Anything that’s going to be prone to corrosion, especially if it’s in a hard to reach spot. Caliper bolts, suspension bolts, stuff like that.

 

Just avoid using it on spark plugs, or anything that will strip out easily if overtorqued, causing more damage than it's worth.

 

I thought I learned it early on here, or maybe it was the 4r forum; but it can cause predetination if you use a bunch of it. I still used the smallest amount when I did my plugs

 

I disagree... I've had to use enough heli-coils on aluminum heads that I won't put a spark plug in without anti seize. Just don't over torque.

 

I’ve never had an issue with it on spark plugs, but I only apply a thin coat and put them in hand tight with a 6-inch 3/8” drive socket wrench.

 

A swipe of nickel anti-seize brushed around the hub will keep your rotors and rims from seizing to your hubs but DO NOT get any on your rotors' braking area or wheel studs! If you do, make sure to clean off with brake cleaner. There are 3 commonly available grades, Nickel has the highest heat rating, copper is second best, and the bottom of the line Silver (which looks like nickel!) is garbage. I've also coated gaskets with nickel anti seize to help with sealing. I haven't used any of the non metal marine ones.

Common anti-seize grades include:

• Silver/Aluminum Grade: A general-purpose anti-seize compound typically made with a blend of aluminum, copper, and graphite. It is suitable for a wide range of metal-on-metal applications and usually has a temperature resistance up to around 1,600°F (871°C).
• Copper Grade: Contains copper flakes and graphite, offering excellent electrical conductivity and resistance to high temperatures, often up to 1,800°F (982°C). It is a common choice for spark plug threads, exhaust bolts, and brake caliper bolts.
• Nickel Grade: Formulated with nickel and graphite, this grade is designed for extreme conditions, including very high heat (up to 2,600°F or 1,426°C), aggressive chemicals, acids, and caustics. It's ideal for use with high-nickel alloys and stainless steel, where copper compounds might cause inter-crystalline corrosion.

 

Small correction/comment: Don’t use a torque wrench and torque to spec. Antisieze acts as a lubricant, and lubricants reduce friction, so if you torque to spec with antisieze, you’re going to over-torque due to the natural added lubricity. And to that point, you’re also going to need to dial-back if you prefer the manual-torqu “uggadugga” method, for the same reason, the added lubricity will skew your ability to sense how tight it’s in there.

I’ve owned and maintained dozens of vehicles in my lifetime. Never once have I used antisieze for plugs, never once have I had a stuck plug, including any of our farm vehicles that sat in the field when I was knee high to a bear. Nothing that would cause thread damage. Even in mixed-metal situations, alloy heads and non-alloy plug seat.

Everyone has their preferred methods they are comfy with, and I won’t knock it. Dad was an airplane mechanic in the US Navy, 20 years. He would’ve beat my ass if he saw me do it, so I avoided it. Later learned about lubricant and over-torque risk, and it all made sense. I’d say, “continue doing what you’re comfy with”, but I always advise folks not to get in the habit. We’ve had more than one person pop in here with a horror story about stripping their plughole.

 

I also put the tiniest dab of copper anti on my plugs, making sure I stayed plenty far back (1/8") from the tip... just the tip
I've heard something about people slathering them up and actually getting some in the combustion chamber, and causing Cat problems?
Uh, I think that was on Bank1 O2 sensors.... getting more coffee onboarded

 

Get more coffee onboarded, so you can sit on the throne and separate the art from the artist...

 

Ex-aircraft (Coast Guard, not Navy) mechanic here.. no anti seize on plugs for me!

Torque wrenches are key. I’m not fan of the ‘Uggadugga’ method as various parts may not be suitable for as much torque as is being applied and thereby over stressing the component and possibly causing a failure (like I did to a drivebelt tensioner stud last weekend…). Or it may need more torque to prevent backing out from vibration over 50,000 miles. The great thing is that if something does break, you can pull over. A plane will just fall.. No big deal.

 

Unless the overhaul or maintenance manuals call for it, I’d rather keep my A&P licenses and not kill anyone.

 

Airplane & Plane license?

 

Aeronautical and planetary license

 

I'm going with my Airplane and Plane license. It satisfies my smooth brain.

 

Air & Plane licenses, duh

Nah, it’s Airframe & powerplant. Means you’re able to work on everything on a plane or helicopter.

 

$10 True MODS 12V DC 20A 4-Pin LED ON-Off-ON SPDT Rocker Switch - Blue

Ditch light ON/OFF/ON switch.
Switch is perfect fit, but LED lights don't work correctly for switching between 12v sources for triggering a relay.
Wanted ON-with high beams/OFF/ON independently. About maybe a mm of filing on 1 of the long sides to get it to fit, zero mangling, and easy reverting back w/o a trace if need be.
The switch is made to deliver 1 - 12v source to one of 2 destinations, not 2 separate 12v sources to 1 destination. This wouldn't be a problem, but the lighting configuration has the LEDs on the wrong side.
I took about 2 hrs this morning just to get to that understanding. I tore the switch completely apart, drew it on paper... No easy way around it.
Still happy with it. Lights work, but not as intended, not mad at it.

 

Put the rear Eibachs on , pretty easy. Passenger side was a little tight. Complimented fresh front end parts well. Not as smooth as stock KYB but after 500 miles I like them. Sporty but not harsh. Way less lean and dive.

 

I think my driver side catalytic converter is failing or has failed.

I’ve had a P0420 code for a while now, it was sporadic at first but then became permanent at some point.
I replaced all the oxygen sensors not long ago, the rear driver’s side was obviously leaking around the gasket so I was hopeful that was part of the problem. Code came back pretty much immediately.
So today I tested with an infrared thermometer and it was significantly hotter on the inlet side than the outlet (I think 270c inlet, 140c outlet).

Is there any use trying a cleaner type product or does it sound done for?

 

None that I’m aware of, when the cat went on my Tacoma I just got rid of it and he runs great now.

 

As in removed it and didn’t replace, just spliced in a straight pipe?