What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

I got some good centre caps for those wheels on Amazon, super cheap, $30 for all four and nearly perfect fit.

 

Got DF from Serra for like $73 with 25% off sale.

Have used the shim kit on Taco check that could accept replaceable shim.



Apparently some Tundra checks use the friction shims too but some use a roller mechanism instead...

 

Finished up a little fix I have been working on for about a week and a half.
Had fun, took my sweet ass time and did a bunch of Ospho and painting etc...
First time working with body filler, and this thin of metal when welding.
Got the cheapest HF fluxcore and went full send.
All in all I am happy with it, and I learned a bunch.
Not perfect, but I didn't expect that, and it looks WAY better than the rust hole that was there
Have some trim and a little inner painting to do yet but that's about it.
So many pictures I just made an album. Here is a little teaser







https://www.tundras.com/media/albums/wheel-arch-rust-repair.21026/

 

Thanks. Looks like I'm out of luck on the rears.....Ourisman emailed me telling me it's actually not in stock and won't be for God only knows how long!

I opted to cancel the order.

So, let's try your link and thank you for the link!

 

So I got some great news today that I’m going to need new cats unfortunately I live in California so I was wondering if you guys knew of any options that won’t empty my wallet for the foreseeable future.

Thanks guys

 

The last time i saw a mattress on the highway i aimed directly dead center for it. I’m sure there’s a correlation between that and me not having nice things

 

I didn't even know you could make albums. Looks good dude!

 

Nice haul! I literally have boxes and boxes of their unused wire harness kits in my shop. I usually end up making my own.

 

Looks like you did a pretty good job for a beginner. There’s definitely an art to working the body filler, and you’re picking up the technique pretty quickly.

 

Yeah, if I had spools of wire I'd just do custom runs for everything. I think I'll start hacking up what I already have installed and just use their connectors at the lights. Most are getting terminated in a relay controller, and the SAE lights are getting hooked up to the factory fog light circuit. Thanks for the recommendation on the SAE lights for my on road lights, just waiting on the additional mounts so I can get them inside my bumper.

 

How do you know you need new cats? Were they stolen?

 

Thanks boys
At some angles it looks pretty good, some... not so good
But its a 20footer all day, and if I took closeups of some of the rest of the truck (like a lot of us probably) it would seem like one of the nicer areas!
I got paint I can buff out, or even wet sand if I wanted. I can't speak to it's longevity, but that paint flowed nice, covered very well, and blended nice even when leaving a wet edge behind for 15-20 seconds.
In fact Ive been sold on RustOleum's 2X line since it came out because it just coats so good.
I warmed them up in front of the pellet stove a little, not hot. And shook the shit outa them. The spray handle I picked up was worth every penny too.
I think I had 1 or 2 specs/pieces of debris. I got stupid with tack clothing and air gunning it off over and over... it paid off.


Body Molding: Have ya'll been using the 3M clear (with the red backing) double adhesive tape?
I've used it before at work years ago, and it seemed pretty strong

 

CA is a tough one. They do not allow the use of just any aftermarket catalytic converter, if you choose to go aftermarket. As with most things out that way, there are some additional requirements needed before its approved to be used.

https://ww2.arb.ca.gov/aftermarket-catalytic-converters

 

Unless they were stolen, I'd do further diagnosis and check O2 sensors first. OEM is going to last the longest if you can get them and will shed the coin. Walker and Magnaflow both sell bolt-in CARB cats that will pass smog, the smog tech might use a mirror and crawl underneath and get numbers off them if he notices the cat looks new. I only got six years out of my Magnaflow bolt-in before it started giving me a constant CEL sadly. Magnaflow also sells CARB approved weld-in ones I believe.

 

Double sided red 3M tape is honestly what's used in the factory for the bodyside moldings anyway, so you're good there.

We use an additional product to help give it an extra level of strength which is 3M adhesion promoter wipes. They work wonders. Back when I had my Honda accord, I snagged a OEM lip spoiler that came off of a total loss we had in the shop. They are supposed to be bolted on, but because I didn't have a trunk Lid with the predrilled holes I just used double sided tape and the wipes. That thing held up for years and it was ran through a lot of car washes.

Make sure to wipe the area with a alcohol prep wipe before you use the promoter and tape to get any leftover wax/dirt/grease residue. Skipping this step could shorten the hold lifespan of the tape.

https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/p/d/b40065518/

 

Nice work, looks great!!!

 

thanks
guessing

$9 3M Double Sided Tape 0.5''x15.4Ft, Heavy Duty Mounting Tape Clear 4905 Adhesive Waterproof Foam Tape for Automotive Home Office Deco

0.5" thickness
That's pretty wild with the spoiler, 3M makes some good stuff though.

 

WOW you did an incredible job! Looks great

 

Yeah that'll do ya.

The skinny one is easier to maneuver around corners.

 

Yeah, avoiding bubbles when mixing is something that took me several different projects to get correct. And I still get a tiny air bubble or two every now and again. It happened with my Waltrip grille overhaul, actually. But I was also working with a non-standard filler (JB Weld) on that one, so ... I claim it's that. I usually prefer Rage (Evercoat) for my filler, super lightweight, easy to mix, almost never get bubbles if you mash it across consistently and the color is easy to read for full mixture.

Who said you need cats? They almost never go bad on our trucks. Honestly, it seems like Toyota made them more indestructible than even their factory CV Axles. You're more liable to have exhaust leaks causing P0420/P0430 (if that's why you're saying you need new ones), or bad O2 sensor(s).

That said, if you're 100% positive you need cats, and you don't think you do because of a code or some dumbass at an exhaust shop told you that based on a code ... Walker is about the least expensive you can get, but you need to get the CARB/CA compliant ones. Bolt-on will be more expensive than weld-on.


FYI, you can tell if a cat is clogged using one of those laser temp guns. The back side of the cat should always be hotter than the front side, 10-20% hotter is fairly normal. If it's cooler at the rear of the cat than it is at the engine side of the cat, it means the cat is clogged.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWpOvrJYois

 

Few weeks ago I started to hear a rattling near the transmission (thought it was a loose/broken flex plate) took it to a mechanic to make sure before I start buying stuff and he found that the inside of the cat is falling apart/clogged.

I was looking at magnaflow but their weld ones are still 1200 lol I’ll have to do a little more research.

back in 2023 my cats got stolen off this truck and I replaced them with cars from a recked truck so I’m thinking they were damaged in the crash. Bought walker cats and had me sister in AZ ship them to me but the smog place I took it too found out immediately. Damn California.

 

That turned out great. So much better than it was before. Nice work!

 

And you verified that claim? Sounds dubious without some form of proof. It's easy to tell if clogged, using the temp gun method in that video. If it's just a rattle, and there's no code, I'd live with it, personally.

I used Walker's part selector for a 2005 Tundra and told it to give me parts for California emissions. The 1st example part number it kicks out for a V6/4.0L is really not that expensive when I searched at RA, and this should be something you can swap yourself dude, if no welding is involved.

​

 

And I think this is one for V8/4.7L, but due to lack of pics I can't tell if it's a weld-in or bolt-in. Still, not outrageous.

​

 

Thanks dude. did some more paint then reassembly, fluid filming all the way out. I dumped 1/3 a can of it over top the wheel well in there.
She is finally back on the ground!

 

Man, I'm jealous of all you guys who have nice shop/ garage space to work in. I've got a list of things I'm anxious to get done to mine and some time to spare at the moment (finally!), but starting today we have three atmospheric rivers lined up back to back to back here (the weather guy describes them, in order, as "moderate", "strong", and "GODZILLA!"), so my plans are in a holding pattern.

On the bright side, these storms should allow the ski areas to open up.

I'm looking into booking a bay at a local community garage, but I'm trying to remain patient.

- K

 

I know a couple of dudes around here who went in on a warehouse/shop space they pitch in to rent. 3 bays and you can technically fit 5-6 vehicles in it. They're paying around $180/mo between 5 guys and it has a lift. But it's in an unfavorable part of town, and it's been broken into a couple of times, so they stopped leaving anything tool-wise that's not bolted down, and asked me to drop security/monitoring stuff in it so someone can at least call the cops if any uninvited ppl show up.

 

I had a bunch of wiring stuff I had wanted to get done on my truck this week before the rain started, now I'm waiting for a dry morning or afternoon to come along so I can try to knock some of it out. I wish I still had a large garage, my truck would be up on jack stands getting all the suspension replaced right now. Instead I have a small garage that's full of motorcycles and a motorcycle lift. I don't think my truck would even fit in my current garage with the bumper and bike rack on it.

I've had a friend use a similar garage space in the bay area to knock out work on his cars. Having a lift can make things so much easier. I'm not sure if we have anything like that here in Portland, I should look into it this winter.

 

Same, same. My tiny garage is stuffed full of "stuff", but even if I emptied it out, my truck would be a very tight fit.

My problem is that if I'm paying by the hour for space I'd want/ need to be efficient, and that's not really how I work. It's usually more like, remove a few bolts, then watch 2–3 YouTube videos to figure out the next step, then repeat. If I knew what I was doing, this could be a good solution.

- K

 

I looked into that with a friend here for our motorcycle projects. Everything affordable explicitly said no wrenching on vehicles. Every place that did allow working on vehicles and was set up for it wanted a couple grand a month. There are a few fancy multi unit work spaces that are definitely aimed at the well off car collector crowd. A place for them to stash their newest purchase before letting the wife know about it.

We ended up renting someone's detached garage for like 6 months, but it was too out of the way to easily motivate myself to go over there and I mainly used it as dry storage for long term projects. Now when I get tired of moving a project out of the way constantly, I strip it apart and carry it down to the basement in parts.