What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

Lol

 

And that's how they get demonetized, but you're right. I sure as hell don't trust a mechanic that doesn't cuss when they bang a knuckle or strip a bolt.

 

If my Dad couldn’t get a bolt out in 10 minutes, out comes the rotozip/whizzer cutting wheel or torch and he did it for a living

 

Anyone know the part # for the top pulley? Removed the serpentine belt and the tensioner pulley and the one at the very top make a little bit of noise when I spin them. @shifty`

 

@Voss

 

Thanks!

 

Toyota has a $50 off for a purchase over $200. Ends in 9hrs. If you have them ship it to local dealer shipping is free. And somehow the prices are lower than the dealer too.

 

You can order from Serra and they'll deliver it to your house for that same deal. Save yourself a trip to the dealer.

 

I've seen people on this forum post very questionable times for jobs. "I did my lower ball joints in 30 minutes". I always take those estimates from videos and assume it will take me twice as long.

 

Installed a JVC KW-Z1000W head unit (w/ 10" screen and wireless CarPlay/Android Auto), new speakers, an 8" powered sub, a backup camera, and some sound deadening. More on the head unit here.

I replaced the cigarette lighter with a unit that has an ⅛" audio in and a hard-wired USB-C connection to the head unit. And mounted the sub level control nearby.



I also replaced the ashtray with a

$20 JDMCAR Center Console Organizer for 2000-2006 Toyota Tundra / 2001-2007 Sequoia, OEM 74102-0C010-E0 Replacement, ABS Storage Tray with Non-Slip Silicone Mat, Phone & Small Items Holder

plastic organizer from JDMCAR that I stuck a MagSafe charger into...


...so now my old truck has a little phone easy bake oven like all the cool kids have. I will note that this tray is pretty narrow...my iPhone 13 mini fits great, but anything much wider than that would be an issue.

- K

 

Oh yeah, one more thing...while I was taking the tailgate panel off to install the Master Tailgaters replacement handle with the built-in camera, I noticed that the nylon (I think) washers on the bolts that retained this panel were disintegrating. I assume these were stock, so I'm not sure why Toyota thought nylon washers would be a good choice for this application; AFAIK nylon isn't really suited to potentially wet environments. You can see what was left of mine in the pile to the right in the image below.

I dug a bit through my parts bin and came across some stainless steel and neoprene bonded washers that looked like suitable replacements. They seemed to work pretty well — please let me know if anyone has a reason these aren't a good choice.



I think these are the ones if anyone else encounters the same issue with the stock washers.

- K

 

both of those are great posts. Welcome!

 

I can have my intake off in 30 minutes.

 

“we do it right, because we do it half a dozen times.”

 

I can have my rear axles out in 15 minutes.

 

I can fold & store both solar panels in less than a minute.

 

Impressive!
Me too!

 

Damn. It takes me that long to gather tools, chock the front tires, jack up the truck, realize I misplaced my stupid lug nut key, and finally take off the wheels.

 

Found out my truck is now UNDERheating..

Must be a stuck thermostat. Annoying.

 

Drinking and cussing are two things mechanics are known for. When I did it for a living I tried using alternative phrases like dadgummit, doggone it dagnabbit it whoopsy-daisy and shoot, but it never seemed to offer the satisfying emotional release of a good goddamhordogslut.

 

The desert has teeth.

Looks like you found the cause, I just wanted to add, there's a TSB for our trucks regarding cold-start high pitched squeal/squeak, and some members have found certain serp belts, even brand new off the shelf, would squeal.

My last fill-up was at 83,038 and I've got around 1/4 tank of gas right now. Will probably be filling up again before EOW. Also got to exercise 4HI for 10-15 miles yesterday running errands in all that wet stuff falling from the sky.

I legitimately did mine in 30-45 mins a side, same with my leaf pack replacements. But I was also familiar with the process after tackling my front suspension, and I didn't hit any pitfalls with the LBJ spindle being frozen like others have. I've also probably done more UBJ/LBJ/pitman/idler/spindle replacements on my vehicles over the past few decades than 95%+ of the other members on this site. I don't do nearly the wrenching I used to, but majority of the work I've typically done on vehicles is linked to audio/wiring/electronics and suspension/wheels/tires, so when it comes to those topics, unless an unexpected hurdle comes up, I'm probably going to get it done faster than most.

 

Hideho campers....it's been awhile. I haven't posted much since my cross country move in 2021, but I'm still around.

It's getting to be Winter in the INW and that means lots of darkness. I'm tired of dealing with ho-hum lights and the last time I was here LED bulbs were still a very mixed bag. After a quick search, I can't find any threads with updates (I see threads about retrofitting projectors but just don't have the time). Have there been any improvements in LED bulbs for our OEM housings or is it just best to go with some of the brighter halogen bulbs with shorter lifespans?

If I decided pry open wallet to go with pre-built retrofits, is TEQ customs still to go to for retrofits?

 

From the megathread's lighting section:

• There are H4 mini-projectors available for our trucks, but you must permanently modify your light housings, no oven-baking needed, just remove a hat-shaped chrome shroud inside, then install the mini-projector (detailed instructions).
• There are bake-in options for full-blown projectors.
• Check THIS REPLY for links to common upgrade options.

The tl;dr is really in that last bolded link. It gives you your options. It's still NOT recommended to use standard, non-projector LED bulbs in stock housings due to scatter. Mini projectors are plug-and-play, and only require a slight housing modification that can be done in minutes. You can stick with halogens but need a harness to adapt. You can do a full ($$$) HID or "proper" LED retrofit, but it requires baking the lens off/on and potentially hours of effort.

I've said it a dozen times before, I don't recommend going with anyone for retrofits, be it a forum member or a company like TEQ. The sad reality is, I'm not aware of any of those options which are self-serviceable, so when something dies, what do you do, remove your entire headlight and get a cheap aftermarket one to install, or drive around with no headlight until it's fixed? Buy another one at an ungodly amount of money? If you can do it yourself, awesome. The number of members I've talked to who've bought new, retrofitted units from forum members who've offered them over time are generally unhappy, and there's been an unusual lack of long-term feedback on the TEQ units.

If someone made a self-serviceable "proper" projector housing for our trucks, I'd snatch that shit up in a heartbeat, even if it cost as much as new OEM housings (which run ~$200-250/ea during non-sale periods). I haven't seen anything like that yet. I'd be willing to test-drive a set if anyone was thinking about making something like that. It sucks, there are so many other vehicles I've owned where I could readily get projectors that used standard bulb sizes. I have no clue why nothing like that exists for our trucks. clearly there's a market for it!

 

Really appreciate the input, that's what I was looking for.

 

I DONT COME HERE TO BE ATTACKED

 

Looks good, I've looked at the same plastic organizer, but was worried about my phone fitting. So for now the ash tray will continue to hold my change parts fund.

 

The tray itself measures about 78mm (~3-1/16") wide inside, but the molded parts that slide into the ashtray track protude inward, giving you only about 68mm (~2-11/16") of width to work with. My iPhone 13 Mini is probably the narrowest smartphone released by anyone in the last 5 years; the spec sheet says it measures 64.2mm wide. With the rubber case I have on mine, it's a tighter fit into that little tray than I even realized...I think the phone with case measures at least 67.5mm wide.

Sorry, I wasn't able to get a pic of the phone sitting in the tray since my phone is my camera. I'll try to grab one from my wife's phone and upload it to this post later.

Bottom line, unless you're rocking an older phone there is very little chance of this setup working for you.

- K

P. S. I don't think there's any reason that tray couldn't be designed to be taller vertically (at least in my truck with no center console). If this were the case, you wouldn't have to worry about the rails, since they're only at the top of the tray. So, if someone were to design and 3D print a taller tray you could potentially use the full 78mm width which would allow it to accomodate more options as far as modern phones.

 

Somewhat of an upgrade, but I ordered the BriteBox harness that another member posted about. You have options to run brights with low beams on, and/or flog lights, and/or high beams with low beams and fog lights. I'm going to give the third option a try and see how it goes.

 

https://www.aspireautoaccessories.c...for-tundra-2000-2006-1?variant=39478360178752

That sounds interesting. Are you just running standard bulbs or brighter bulbs?

 

Standard headlight bulbs and Diode Dynamics fog lights. I'm planning to upgrade the headlight harness and run some highwatt bulbs but haven't been in a hurry.