What have you done to your 1st gen Tundra today?

My rear bumper was first and a diy kit, I was ocd putting it together, and had a competent welder fully weld it(Im lucky enough to have met some decent welders, that have turned into great trade out situations) it’s awesome to be a tradie(down under lingo I think…..)
The front was from addicted and my best option

 

Tacundra

 

Dude will they let you cancel the order? If they will, Lemme figure out a way to get you this spare I got from our fellow member Baraynavab.

 

They already reordered it and it’s in shipment to them to send to me at the moment. If it drags on, I’ll cancel it and let you know. Hopefully after the holiday they’ll get it and ship it with a tracking number to me.

 

PS -

 

Think they might make the front discs though. Planning to turn my drums a smidge soon.

 

If they bred, that's what I picture too

 

It was last weekend but I put the stock front springs back on after trying out the OME 2884 since September. The combo of OME 2884 and Access Cab V8 2WD leads to a slightly nose-up attitude, which my dad and I were not huge fans of. Since this is his truck (now that I have 2007 GX470 to play with), I returned it back to factory ride height.

With 2884s installed:


Harvesting the original springs:


Swapped over and installed:

 

Thats cool. Wish i could swap my stock stuff back on for a weekend, now that i'm used to the new stuff. Just to find out what the difference is in more detail.

 

I was surprised at how easy it was to remove. I gave myself more than enough time to do the swap on Sunday morning lol. I think my GX was a little more complicated since it does have 4WD and the suspension design is slightly different.

 

Well, pretty much very first DIY maintenance/repair on the truck.. Always dropped it off to my mechanic. He is very nice guy, always tells me he has more work than he can really handle. Anyways, Got squeeling noise when backing up slowly, he diagnosed it as Ujoint going bad - he was right, the rear one was shot. He asked me whether I want to do it. He said it isn't too bad. I only worked on my Honda Ody so far. Anyways, tackling it now, dropped the shaft, took out 2, got 1 new one in. I thought putting it in would be easy, but I found that it is more difficult to put it in than take it out.

At least carriage bearing is tight and nice and smooth so I don't have to do that one.

One Q, how "freely moving" the joint has to be? new one moves smoothly, but it does take a bit of force to move. The new one is identical one to the OEM one that was on the shaft (Spicer 1330x - has same markings as the one I took out).
I was told to bang on the yoke to "seat" the joint, but it did get a bit lose, but it isn't like freely moving or anything. Should I be concerned? Thanks.

 

Drive hard for 20 miles, then jack the rear axle off the ground. The diff will have some slop, but the driveshaft shouldnt audibly click or clunk. If 2wd ac's have a carrier bearing it should have play, but not be loose, if its a slip yoke, grease it if you can.

 

Correct. Front pads kit (pads shims etc), front rotors. Rear wheel cylinder.

Now I’m wondering who makes Toyotas rear drums for our trucks. Surely it’s a common manufacturer. No way they make them in-house. Or maybe Advics did, but they’re NLA? The mystery continues…

 

If you get shitty drums, could you lap em by burning through a set of rear shoes? Does the e-brake spring ruin the 'machining'?

 

Just take them to parts store and have them re-turn them, is probably your best bet. Not sure if chain stores will do it though.

 

Why couldn't you?

 

Once you get the u-joint seated and clipped in, give the yoke a couple of smacks with your hammer, and that will release the binding so that it moves freely

 

That is what I said I did but it did not make it much looser.

 

Smack it again...with enthusiasm! If that doesn't release it then you may have munged up one of the needle bearings while assembling the joint. You'll have to pull it apart to check

 

It looks like the coastal offroad front bumpers are on sale for 15% off. Does anyone have experience with them? I've got a good welder and powder coat shop here. I think I've seen some good examples of those installed from some guys here. It would be about $650 shipped to me. Which isn't so bad.

 

Swapped out the ATs for my Blizzaks on Sunday, and sprayed a fresh coat of clear Woolwax on the undercarriage last night at the local Rent-a-Hoist. Just in time for the snowstorm due to hit Michigan later tonight.

 

Yes.

Two things:
1) Are you certain that new drums are needed?

2) If yes, the OE drums are expensive. But aftermarket drums can be ok. I have used both with success. Just have to consider is the money saved worth it.

Have not seen Advics branded brake drums for sale for 1st Gens.

 

Can spec the drum to see if it can be turned.

Can see if they are in spec and might turn and still run them instead of replace.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/wha...-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-2188#post-3755296

 

I have the front bumper. I like it

 

Well, it isn't binding or anything. It moves smoothly. Just that it does not flop around, I do have to use my hand to go left/right/up/down. I was very careful with needle bearings, though I can't, of course, discard the possibility. What I will probably do is do the other joints and see how it feels and decide.

Maybe it is because of temperature. It isn't exactly COLD, but it is pretty cool.

 

Alright. Someone advise. Is this ATF burnt or what? Looks pink on a paper towel, but pretty dark in a bottle…

 

Coolant or atf?

 

ATF*** derp Dee derp. Pink liquid gets confused in this brain of mine sometimes.

 

Definitely looks dark but if it was burnt it would smell like hell

 

Smell it. That will tell you if it’s burnt.