1. Welcome to Tundras.com!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tundra discussion topics
    • Transfer over your build thread from a different forum to this one
    • Communicate privately with other Tundra owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

What else should I do while the engine is out?

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by 5TBKT, May 5, 2021.

  1. May 5, 2021 at 11:46 AM
    #1
    5TBKT

    5TBKT [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    May 5, 2021
    Member:
    #62669
    Messages:
    4
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Robin
    CT
    Vehicle:
    2005 4x4 RCLB
    Last fall I bought a new-to-me 2005 Tundra. I spent all spring and summer that year looking for the right 05/06 regular cab long bed, so I was ready to jump when I finally found a 54k mile single owner 4x4. Fast forward to spring 2021 and I’ve prophylactically replaced the timing belt and replaced the leaky steering rack and tie rod ends. I finally decided to address the dripping oil pan bolt the previous owner told me about only to learn that the oil drip is not coming from a buggered sump bolt. Instead, the aft-most edge of the lower pan flange has corroded enough to weep oil which in turn runs forward down the pan and drips off the drain bolt. It’s not gushing out by any means, but it’s enough of a persistent drip to leave a mess on the floor after being parked for a few days. After tons of research on this forum and others, I’ve begrudgingly come to terms with the fact that the only proper way to solve the problem is to pull the motor and replace the pan with the engine on a stand.

    If and when I finally commit to replacing the pan, what else should I do while I have all that room in the engine bay? Are there obvious maintenance or upgrade items I should consider that would be much easier without the motor in the way? Anything on the engine itself while it's on the stand?
     
  2. May 5, 2021 at 12:24 PM
    #2
    blackdemon_tt

    blackdemon_tt Battery Slayer

    Joined:
    Feb 27, 2020
    Member:
    #43241
    Messages:
    2,560
    Gender:
    Male
    Vehicle:
    2007 5.7l Tundra DC SR5 long bed 2wd
    TRD Sway Bar, Roll covers USA bed cover
    Rear main seal, is probably the best time to replace it. While the engine is out
     
    theblurry1 likes this.
  3. May 5, 2021 at 1:15 PM
    #3
    slowpokepete

    slowpokepete New No More

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2021
    Member:
    #57920
    Messages:
    584
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Peter
    Hillsdale, NY
    Vehicle:
    2007 Blue Tundra DC 4x4 SR5
    My only thought, based on stuff I've read on here that is a pain in the ass to get to...starter?

    SPP
     
    Grumpy74 likes this.
  4. May 5, 2021 at 1:27 PM
    #4
    Jim LE 1301

    Jim LE 1301 Camaro Lover, SSEM # 11,TTC#179

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2018
    Member:
    #14884
    Messages:
    27,763
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jim
    Hudson Valley, New York
    Vehicle:
    2018 MGM Tundra TRD Sport Double Cab
    Water pump, thermostat, hoses and belts.
    Clean up the engine bay and if the paint is bad repaint it.

    Welcome from NY.
     
    FrenchToasty likes this.
  5. May 5, 2021 at 1:32 PM
    #5
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model A.K.A ‘Golden Hands’

    Joined:
    Apr 29, 2018
    Member:
    #14878
    Messages:
    15,007
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Fred
    ‘Somewhere’... a State of Mind
    Vehicle:
    2002 Tundra SR5 4WD 4.7L AC Silver Metallica
    Hand Protectors
    Oil Pump because of the little .50cent O-Ring in there. Mine has a slight weep showing itself which I discovered during a Timing Belt change.

    Thought it was the Cam Seals before the job so I bought them along with the Crank Seal so those are replaced, but the enging needs removal for the .50cent O-Ring. :annoyed:

    Also, my rear main seal has a leak thats a few drops but never hits the ground.
     
    theblurry1 likes this.
  6. May 5, 2021 at 1:48 PM
    #6
    Jack McCarthy

    Jack McCarthy Truck repair enthusiast; Rust Aficionado

    Joined:
    Nov 2, 2020
    Member:
    #54409
    Messages:
    7,729
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Bill
    North of Boston
    Vehicle:
    02 Tundra AC SR5 V8 4x4
    Install headers. :cool:
     
    Mustanley, bmf4069, N84434 and 3 others like this.
  7. May 5, 2021 at 3:29 PM
    #7
    5TBKT

    5TBKT [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    May 5, 2021
    Member:
    #62669
    Messages:
    4
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Robin
    CT
    Vehicle:
    2005 4x4 RCLB
    Thanks for the input.

    I did the water pump, etc when I did the timing belt, and the oil pump, starter, and RMS are good points. There's actually a guy on my local craigslist who has some JBA shorties for a decent price and I'm on the fence about picking them up and installing them while the engine is on the stand.
     
  8. May 5, 2021 at 9:44 PM
    #8
    jimf909

    jimf909 Battery almost dead...

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2021
    Member:
    #57786
    Messages:
    368
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Jim
    Washington or Idaho
    Vehicle:
    '03 Tundra SR5 AC 4.7 TRD w/LSD
    Dead stock with oem 16" starfish wheels. We'll see how long that lasts. :) Topper of unknown origin.
    If this'll be like a trip to the dealer, windshield wipers. Every service is better with new windshield wipers. jk

    Post pics of your work if you have a chance.
     
    bmf4069 likes this.
  9. May 6, 2021 at 1:14 AM
    #9
    empty_lord

    empty_lord They see me rollin'

    Joined:
    Feb 1, 2019
    Member:
    #25441
    Messages:
    10,024
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dan
    Indiana, Chicagoland
    Vehicle:
    05 rollover special
    custom body work, Billies with taco ARB springs, Icon AAL, TRD FJ trail team wheels, 2019 Toyota 86 radio, Blacked out interior, Added factory power everything, heater mirrors, ETC
    prime time for headers, always do the rear main... past that.. clean out the engine bay very well.. perfect time to touch up the frame in hard to reach spots if rust has started.



    Welcome to the forum from a fellow reg cab v8 4x4 owner!
     
    N84434 likes this.
  10. Dec 17, 2021 at 6:47 AM
    #10
    5TBKT

    5TBKT [OP] New Member

    Joined:
    May 5, 2021
    Member:
    #62669
    Messages:
    4
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Robin
    CT
    Vehicle:
    2005 4x4 RCLB
    Finally got around to doing this so I thought I'd give a follow up.

    I followed the instructions in the factory service manual and the actual removal process wasn't that bad. The two bolts at the top bell housing were difficult and the some of the electrical connectors running down the transmission were a pain, but it went more or less according to plan. I had to persuade the driver's side dowel between the block and the bell housing to separate, but once it did, everything popped out.
    [​IMG]

    Removing and replacing the upper and lower pans was easy once the motor was on the stand. I was really worried I was going to have to drill out most of the lower pan bolts, but I think they all spun out without much grief. Check out the rust holes on the pan flange. That's where my leak was coming from.
    [​IMG]

    While the motor was out I took everyone's advice and cleaned up the engine bay. I wound up replacing the rubber lines and the hard lines for the front diff breather since they looked nasty. I pulled the cast motor mount brackets off the block and sand blasted and painted them and put them back on with new OEM rubber mounts. The rear main seal looked dry and I didn't want to mess with it or the flex plate so I left it alone. I also picked up a new Denso radiator from Rock Auto because mine had some pink fuzzies on some of the fins near the bottom.

    I bought the JBA shorties from the Craigslist guy, but after some buyers remorse and an honest appraisal of the situation, I decided to stick with the OEM exhaust manifolds. I'll probably list the JBA's on here soon.

    Installing everything was basically the reverse of removal. The position of the two lifting hooks on the left and right banks made it difficult to keep the engine level, even with a load leveler on the hoist. If it was level left to right, it was sloped front to back. If it was level front to back, it leaning left to right. I ended up with a ratchet strap looped around the crank pulley and over the hoist boom to keep the engine level front to back, and then used the leveler to even it out side to side. I really think that helped when lining up the dowels.

    And FYI, one of the flex plate-to-torque converter bolts is unique. Five are gold colored with a regular head and threading, and one is black with a stepped shoulder. The service manual says to put the black one in first (the shoulder helps center and align the torque converter to the flex plate) and I did, but I woke up in a cold sweat later that night wondering if that black bolt needed to go back in the same hole it came out of. After a panicked call to the dealership first thing the next morning, I was reassured by the senior tech that the shouldered bolt can go anywhere as long as it goes in first. Phew.

    Long story short I now have a truck that I can park in the driveway without worrying about catching oil drips in an old kitty litter pan. All in all it wasn't the worst job in the world, but I'm glad it's done.
     

Products Discussed in

To Top