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Was my transmission fluid overfilled?

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by xx8xx, Sep 9, 2020.

  1. Sep 9, 2020 at 8:05 PM
    #1
    xx8xx

    xx8xx [OP] New Member

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    So I bought a 2008 2wd with 170k miles. I noticed it seemed to clunk when accelerating from a stop. Not too loudly or violently, but noticeable.

    I decided to do a drain and fill of the transmission fluid, and here's where my question comes in. I pulled the check plug first, and when I did I'd say about 2 quarts came gushing out from the check plug. By the time it was done draining, I'd drained just shy of 4 quarts.

    I did the drain and fill from the instructions I could find. I got it up to temp using the diagnostic mode. I put back in a little more than fluid than I took out. When I pull the check plug again about another quart or so came out when it was at temp before it got to what I would describe as a trickle.

    I'm thinking now it was over full, but i'm nervous and don't wanna mess up the transmission if I'm wrong. So it figured I'd run it by wall and see what yall think. Does it sound like it was over full? Could have have been the cause of my clunk? How would I know if I end up being too low?
     
  2. Sep 9, 2020 at 8:15 PM
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    Trooper2

    Trooper2 Premium Lone Star Member / SSEM #13

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    It sounds like it was overfilled, just not sure how that happens. Maybe it was pumped in at the cooler and overfilled.
    Was that the csuse of vour clunck, not sure. Is the clunck gone or lessened?
    What did the fluid look like?
    It sounds like you got the level correct.
     
  3. Sep 9, 2020 at 8:19 PM
    #3
    xx8xx

    xx8xx [OP] New Member

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    The clunk seems to be gone. I'm just really paranoid I may not have put enough back in. Plus a "trickle" seems up for interpretation.
    It was dark brown. Not black. It was a little funky but not as bad as I was expecting for the miles that are on it.
     
  4. Sep 9, 2020 at 8:34 PM
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    Trooper2

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    Thinking that If a "trickle" is described as part of an instruction or proceedure then there has to be room for variances. You are probably in the right level neighborhood.
    I would consider doing another drain and fill in a few thousand miles. Also Do some more research to make sure you aren't missing anything.

    I didn't do the procedure. I drained close to 4 quarts, and replaced with same amount. But I didn't have any come out the check/fill port.
     
  5. Sep 10, 2020 at 5:36 AM
    #5
    JohnLakeman

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    (1) If the transmission was cold, you should have no fluid come out when the check port is first opened with the engine running. ATF expands with increasing temperature. If the fluid level was previously correct (overflowing a trickle at set temperature), then the fluid level should have been below the check pipe after the transmission cooled (fluid contracted). Conclusion: Your transmission was overfilled, or you started with a hot transmission.

    (2) To check fluid level, start with transmission cold. Start engine. Remove check plug, and add fluid through fill port until fluid overflows the check port. Replace fill plug and check plug. Start engine and put ECU in level check mode. When the shift quadrant "D" in cluster comes on steady, immediately remove check port plug and allow the excess fluid to run out to a trickle. Replace the check plug. Do not continue to idle the engine and then remove the check plug again for confirmation: If you do, your correct fluid level will be altered because more fluid will run/trickle out. The fluid will continue to expand, and run out the check port, as it is heated by the idling engine.

    Understanding the fine points may help alleviate your concern and/or properly adjust the level. I have detailed clips from SRM if needed.
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2020
  6. Sep 10, 2020 at 12:18 PM
    #6
    xx8xx

    xx8xx [OP] New Member

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    20200909_130408.jpg Thanks @JohnLakeman! It was cold when I first started and pulled the check plug and it dumped all that fluid. After I refilled i did the check pretty much as you described. Here's how much it dumped out from a cold transmission from the check plug.
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2020
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  7. Sep 10, 2020 at 12:25 PM
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    GODZILLA

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    @Ruggybuggy or @chasenicholas93 can either you better explain the trickle that is causing concern?
     
  8. Sep 10, 2020 at 12:28 PM
    #8
    xx8xx

    xx8xx [OP] New Member

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    The trickle I finished the job with was a trickle, but I was not a stream straight out if the check plug hole. It was still a decent stream, but it ran out of the check foll hole and down the intention in the pan that the check plus sits in.
     
  9. Sep 10, 2020 at 12:54 PM
    #9
    Genuine Cooling Systems

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    Just when the stream starts to break up and beginning to form drips is when I would call it good. Also make sure your truck is level.
     
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  10. Sep 10, 2020 at 8:48 PM
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    Ruggybuggy

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    As the fluid starts to flow after removing the plug it changes from a steady flow to where it starts to cling to the pan as the flow slows down. As soon as it "clings" replace the plug. Follow what John has told you, could not have said it better myself.

    Also the fluid looks pretty nasty. I would drain and fill a couple of time.
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2020
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  11. Sep 10, 2020 at 10:03 PM
    #11
    AZBoatHauler

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    Was the engine running when you first pulled the check plug? I’m pretty sure if the engine is off and you pull the check plug you’ll have the ATF drain out - at least that is what happened in my 2017 that I’ve owned since it was new.

    how much fluid did you put back in? 3 quarts?
     
    Last edited: Sep 10, 2020
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  12. Sep 11, 2020 at 12:17 AM
    #12
    TTund16

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  13. Sep 11, 2020 at 5:24 AM
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    JohnLakeman

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    Excellent point. Fluid level will be pulled down on startup to refill cavities and passages that drain down when the pump is not running. I edited my post to correct the omission. The pan indicates approximately 1.6 quarts drained out.

    SRM also calls for shifting through the quadrant before putting the ECM in level check mode, and if equipped with an auxiliary cooler, the transmission thermostat should be pinned for the level check. Vehicle also needs to be on a level surface.
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2020
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  14. Sep 11, 2020 at 11:35 AM
    #14
    xx8xx

    xx8xx [OP] New Member

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    So now I'm confused. Someone said when its cold you should have none drain. Now someone says when it's cold you should have some.

    Today I did another drain/fill and started cold, and pulled the checknpkyg first. Got more fluid although less than last time.

    I did the level check again and used the advice above about the trickle.

    Some said to unpin the thermostat on another site I was reading. Here im seeing leave it pinned to do the check.
     
  15. Sep 11, 2020 at 11:50 AM
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    TTund16

    TTund16 New Member

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    Welcome to the internet :D
     
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  16. Sep 11, 2020 at 11:53 AM
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    Hbjeff

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    Mine also gushed out the check port when cold
     
  17. Sep 11, 2020 at 11:57 AM
    #17
    xx8xx

    xx8xx [OP] New Member

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    Still though. This has all been super helpful! I'm feeling ok about it. It shifts ok. Doesn't seem to be overheating, and the clunk when accelerating from a stop is gone!
     
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  18. Sep 11, 2020 at 12:02 PM
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    Hbjeff

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    I guess use a diagnostic port scanner to check it at the perfect temp. I will say, ive done 2 drain and fills, shifts better with fresh fluid
     
  19. Sep 11, 2020 at 12:05 PM
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    AZBoatHauler

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    If the engine is ON and the transmission COLD you should not have a significant amount of fluid come out when you open the check plug. If the engine is OFF, I’ve seen 1-2 quarts drain out when you remove the check plug even if the transmission is cold.

    I believe the thermostat should be pinned open when checking the level. @Ruggybuggy will know for sure.
     
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  20. Sep 11, 2020 at 1:25 PM
    #20
    xx8xx

    xx8xx [OP] New Member

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    Its all coming together. My engine was off and the transmission cold when I pulled the check plug.
     
  21. Sep 11, 2020 at 1:26 PM
    #21
    JohnLakeman

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    Sorry for the confusion. Mea culpa. :(

    Pinning the thermostat open causes pumped fluid to be actively moved through the auxiliary cooler circuit without waiting for the thermostat to reach it's opening temperature. In the Service Repair Manual, the fluid adjustment sub-section is embedded in a transmission repair section where large volumes of fluid may have to be replaced after repairs, as for example, with a torque converter replacement. In that case, the SRM says to pin the thermostat open, and after the level adjustment is complete, to unpin the thermostat. I suspect that is to purge any air back to the transmission pan that may have gotten into the cooler circuit during the repair. If you are only doing a fluid level check, or a drain and fill...well, I won't offer my opinion. Readers can decide for themselves; I've muddled this discussion enough. ;)
     
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  22. Sep 11, 2020 at 1:32 PM
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    xx8xx

    xx8xx [OP] New Member

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  23. Sep 11, 2020 at 5:15 PM
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    Ruggybuggy

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    Latin, really? I had to google that. :notsure: Smart every day.
     
  24. Sep 11, 2020 at 5:17 PM
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    14burrito

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    With regards to your clunk,

    Does your driveshaft have zerks? If so, grease all your u-joints and slip.
     
    Last edited: Sep 11, 2020
  25. Sep 11, 2020 at 5:25 PM
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    JohnLakeman

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    Doesn't it mean, "I need caffeine"? o_O
     
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  26. Sep 13, 2020 at 11:10 AM
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    AZBoatHauler

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    I had everything on hand for another drain and fill so I went ahead and did one this morning. About 2 quarts drained out from the check plug when removed with the engine off.
    476A4A74-ED24-4C0B-89B1-A9623E132A46.jpg
    Then pulled the drain plug and drained an additional 2 quarts.
    935E6332-40DC-4045-A0BF-F02A0466468A.jpg
    put in 4 quarts of WS and good for another year.
     
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