Upgrading a Tundra Grade Work Truck Packaged RCSB

Hey everyone,

I've been upgrading my base 2012 4x4 RCSB, with the 'Work Truck' package (only 51k miles!). The SR5 parts are from my 2007 4.7 4x4 RCSB with 240k miles. Unfortunately, the previous owner of the SR5 was a masonry contractor and beat the body to hell. For my first post, I wanted to document some of my findings as I continue this build.

To avoid confusion, I'll refer to the 2012 5.7 base model as 'Base' and the 2007 4.7 SR5 as 'SR5'.



Current and Before

Manual to Power Windows/Power Locks:

I swapped out the door wiring harnesses, door cards, the window motor assemblies, power window/lock controls, and door lock actuators from the SR5. I found that the SR5 had an additional airbag impact sensor on each door, which I removed from the harnesses. Fortunately, the power windows were plug-and-play. The Base even had the appropriate fuse installed to run the power windows.


The additional impact sensor I didn't need for the Base

The only two wires missing at the junction connector for each side are for the door/puddle lights--power and ground. The rest of the wiring is there for the windows/locks.

The Base has the connector and harness ready for the door control receiver, located midway on the passenger-side pillar next to the rear window. The 2007 door control receiver had a different connector than the 2012 harness, so I had to cut and resolder. Similarly, the harness for the key buzzer was there, which is located on the driverside behind the bumper.

After running Techstream, it seems like the wireless keys option is lacking on my Base BCM. The wireless key programming option was not in the Main Body utility tab, which only showed 'Initialize' and 'Customize'. For the SR5 it gives a fault code without the components installed.

Now, I'll have to figure out how to program the BCM to recognize the wireless keys.

Headliner/Trim/Sequoia Sun Visors

For the headliner, I used Alcantara with a foam layer from Amazon, glued with 3M Super 77. After, I painted the trim with

$23 SEM 39143 Trim Black Aerosol - 15 oz.

SEM 39143 Trim Black. The trim paint is satin and a bit glossier than the flat OEM trim color. I barely notice the difference, but I would go with a flat paint next time.

In response to the "ugh, there's no mirrors" comments from my passengers, I swapped the sun visors with Sequoia ones with the second sun shade. They have built-in lights, but I had to cut out the connectors; they would not fit otherwise, and the tundra did not have a harness for them.

Leather Seat Covers

I purchased cardinal-colored leather seat covers with the seat heaters and gel pads from leatherseats.com. Tim from leatherseats.com walked me through the entire process and sent me a bunch of color samples; their customer service is excellent. The seat install wasn't too bad. There were a few (dozen) times I missed the rods in the foam with the hog rings, so I had to cut them out and redo them. I also had to cut up the long plastic clip of bottom cushion (at front of the seat) to match the OEM clip. For the upright seat cushion, make sure to reuse the metal rods from the original covers.

The hardest part was covering the headrests. I had difficulty with the vinyl headrests, so I ended up using the cloth ones from the SR5 because they were easier to compress using the plastic bag and vacuum method.



Larger Overhead Console Upgrade

Unfortunately, the regular cab does not have the mid-roof support that the larger overhead console mounts to in the rear. Therefore, I had to fabricate two standoffs using M4-0.7x10mm hardware and two "150lb" neodymium magnets. The total height of the standoff and the magnet is 1.5 in. The standoffs seem to be very solid and the extra lighting is great to have.



Clock/Temp Display

The base Tundra has an info display that only showed the time, so I swapped that with the SR5 one with the additional temperature display. One trick to easily remove/install the display is to take out the radio and the mesh in front of the display. Then remove the two screws holding the display and maneuver the display towards the driver side, inside of the dash. There is a cavity where you can angle the display and remove it towards the opening where the radio would be. I circled the display in yellow in the following picture depicting the cavity.



Although, the Base has an ambient temperature sensor behind the grille, the temperature is not displaying with the SR5 info buttons. The harness to the info button stack has 8 wires, but it seems like there are a few more missing going to the gauge cluster than the SR5.

Unfortunately, I think I fried the MOSFET behind the gauge cluster because the clock display turns off when turning on my headlights. I'm planning to remove the illumination wire from my android head unit, and upgrading to the Optitron gauge cluster.

Exterior/Roof Rack/Lighting

The bumpers are from eBay, and the front bumper holds the Badland Apex 12,000 lb winch perfectly. However, there's a gap between the bumper and the RCI skid plate that I have to fill. For the roof, I found that the Spider Mini Roof Rack fits perfectly. I also like the fact that I didn't have to drill into my roof to install it. The lights on my truck are Auxbeam, and I'm running their 6-gang switch panel.



Lastly, I'm running a Wilco offroad hitch mount tire carrier and STAPLL truck fender racks with their 48 x10 MOLLE panels. I'll grab some pictures soon.

Next on the To-Do List
(In no particular order)

-Finish the power locks and the mpg/clock/temperature display.
-Install auto headlights and auto climate control
-Convert to floor shift. I have the parts ready to go and the center console lid is getting wrapped at leatherseats.com at the moment.
-Install pop-up camper
-Reinforce bed to frame
-Install rock sliders

I hope others find this thread useful. Thanks for reading!

 

Power Locks Update: Seems like the wireless keys option is lacking on my Base BCM. I ran Techstream on the SR5 and it gives a fault code without the components installed.

The only two wires missing at the junction connector for each side are for the door/puddle lights--power and ground. The rest of the wiring is there for the windows/locks.

Now, I'll have to figure out how to program the BCM to recognize the wireless keys.

 

Badass truck. Love the regular cab short beds. Nice job.

 

Thanks! She's a great little truck.

 

OEM Power Lock Retrofit Update:

TL;DR... I have to replace/upgrade the main body (multiplex network) ECU aka BCM in order for the power locks and wireless receiver to work. I'm currently waiting for the part to install.

First, I scoured the various Toyota forums to see if anyone had done this retrofit before, and I could not find any information regarding the possibility of reprogramming the BCM.

I scanned both trucks and found the following differences in features:


Having an offline version of Techstream (v12), I thought the program itself was the limiting factor, so I subscribed to the professional diagnostic tier of Global Techstream/TIS. Although I was able to double check to see if I had all of the correct parts and wiring, I could not find an option to reprogram or calibrate the BCM. TIS did not have the 'asbuilt' or calibration data for either of my regular cabs as well.

Disappointed, I looked into BCM/junction block part numbers. From what I could tell, the 2010-2013s were not compatible with BCMs from 2007-2009, so I couldn't use the BCM from my donor truck.

I ordered a new BCM/junction block, so I'm hoping this is the final piece to the puzzle.

 

My leather wrapped center console lid with the XL wireless phone charging pad from leatherseats.com came in. I hardwired a 5amp fuse and a 12v to 5v USB adapter for the charger. The wire runs through the hinge, behind the console.

 

The center console test fit is complete.

The guys at leatherseats.com wrapped the console lid with padded leather. It's a huge improvement over the hard plastic of the bench seat arm rest.

Floor shifter conversion is next.

 

This looks great. Following along.

 

I appreciate it, thanks!

 

Update: Power locks and alarm now work!

I swapped my work truck junction box/body control module/interior fuse box with the following:

Driver Side Junction Block Assembly
Part Number: 82730-0C520

***Check compatibility*** While looking at part numbers, I noticed that there might be some incompatibility from the early models vs the later ones. I did not want to try the junction block from my 2007 SR5 and potentially fry something on my 2012. There are several different junction box part numbers with different functionalities, so double check.

Right after installing the new junction block, I was able to lock/unlock the doors using the door buttons. I also programmed both the immobilizer and wireless door lock receiver to accept the Euro style key from eBay; I hate the separate key and fob. My local ACE Hardware was kind enough to cut my key for free because it was already programmed. While installing the new junction block, I also added the Toyota glass break sensor and module; I turned on the passive alarm via Techstream.



Everything works, and I'm incredibly happy to finally have OEM power locks and an alarm system!

Recap of the power locks/windows retrofit:
-Install door wiring harnesses from a truck with power locks/windows
-Install the power window and lock assemblies, door card with buttons, key buzzer, wireless key receiver
-Install a junction block with the appropriate functionality **check compatibility** I used the VIN from a well equipped RCSB from the same year
-Use Techstream to program the wireless key receiver
Note: I have yet to install the security horn; my SR5 did not have one. However, the alarm is functional without it. The horn and the blinkers turn on when the alarm is activated.