Transmission issues log

Hello all,

I'm going start this transmission issue log, as I'm starting to have issues with it, suttle but noticeable. I've linked a previous code I got which will start this as a form of reference guide in the hopes of helping someone down the road. Besides the slipping as described in a previous post linked below, it hasn't returned. I'll be starting a move within the next couple of month and will require to tow a trailer. May do it bits at a time over time.... so, the last 2 weeks I've gotten some additional issues.

2 weeks ago I noticed a bounce or vibration inside the cab, and it wasn't the bed bounce issue since it rattled the entire truck. The event took about 5 seconds like 4.1 type earthquake shake accelerating past 30mph.

Last week at a full stop it felt like the truck started bouncing all on its own... Wife thought I was shaking my leg and asked me to stop. The event took about 3 seconds, it was slightly noticeable. All is good after

Today roughly the same patch from 2 weeks ago, I felt as if I lost traction for a second, there was a cab shake, Very slight all is good after

My truck is an 07 5.7L 2wd long bed with 235k miles. I've been the only owner.. and I've recently changed the fluid on the transmission. It's been serviced 2 previous times by stealership..

Feedback is appreciated, as issues show up I will continue to update and add as necessary and will include possible solutions if any... torque converter is the suspect at this time.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/p0894.89690/#post-2256002

 

Did you put in Toyota fluid, or something else? Have you double checked the level? Did you manually open the thermostat (if applicable) when doing this?

 

Yes. Manually opened the thermostat, Genuine Toyota WS, and jumped the obd and it appeared correct.

 

Full disclosure.... this last month has been the first time in over a decade that I don't carry something hefty in my truck bed, something like 50 lbs or so......additionally my shocks are the original units, so I may be getting some false positives... eitherway...

I've been working on my Celica since I had to move it this week.... I got a couple shakes at 35mph, it appeared to be less than before, but still there. As I mentioned I had to tow my Celica out of town with a uhaul auto-transport... and I got no shaking with the trailer on pick up nor towing my car to its final destination...
Interesting part... I left with an empty trailer and no tow/haul engaged and it started bouncing again. So I glanced over and pressed the tow/haul button and it stopped mid bounce... it was unusually short this time.... could it be ECM related??

 

I would have someone with a high level scan tool go looking for transmission codes.

The early torque converters were known for being somewhat problematic, and you may be experiencing that issue.

 

They paved the roads near me.

When going about 30-45mph at cruising rpm’s it feels like I’ve hit rumble strips and my vehicle feels like it’s having an earthquake or death wobble

As soon as we hit old pavement,or I speed the RPm’s and drop into a lower gear up it quits

Thought I was crazy until I asked a relative about it

They confirmed the same type of issue with a different vehicle

I never knew roads could cause such an issue

This may not be your case but if it’s happening on the same spots in the road it may be something to watch out for

Otherwise a full 12-14qt fluid change and refresh may help.

 

I may need to invest in 1.. I've had 0 slippage since the last incident... maintenance light came on so I'm doing another transmission drain and fill.. but it does feel like a front rear and wobble... different areas and sections... asphalt mainly..

 

I know what you mean... the concrete areas are the worst.. but this is known as the bed bounce issue.. what I'm feeling is more of a wobble... like grabbing a stick from the center and shaking it up and down and watching both ends shake before the center follows through with vibration....

 

I would change out all the trans fluid and start new. I drove Honda’s for years and several had shudders which were cured by completely new fluid ,versus just 1 drain and fill.

Here’s what hose going into the trans cooler you use to push fluid out. Disregard the one without fluid in it,i hooked both up since i didn’t know what one was correct

 

I'll have to do this... I've already done a drain and fill before the wobble started..

 

When you describe it as a wobble, how's the front suspension?

At your mileage, the need to renew the bushings, ball joints, and tie rod ends becomes more and more likely, so that's definitely worth looking at.

Also on that list would be getting under the truck and pushing on the carrier bearing for the driveshaft to see how much it moves. You've greased the U-joints recently too right?

 

Yes, U joints are greased, they were greased about 6 months ago... front suspension hasn't been touched since it left the factory... so I may be barking at the tree at this point... did pick up a suspension which I haven't swapped in as of yet. Maybe I'll do those in combination and re-address....

 

If you do decide to change out all the ATF it’s very simple. Pump out 4 quarts at a time then refill. Wash rinse repeat. Then final procedure following up with temp check and overflow check and boom you’re done. Don’t forget to pin open the thermostat

 

When I did my last transmission drain and fill, it took around 15qts to get the fluid to look exactly the same color as the fluid going in. I'd recommend 2qts at a time, the pan holds 4 qts and you don't want to run the risk of running your pump dry.

I'd definitely get that suspension replaced asap.

Motor mounts would be worth checking too.

 

Welp... There has been alot of changes for me lately, I moved, made a huge investment, transferred out for a job and put everything on hold until I fully settle in.. but not alot of changes with my baby...

I got new tires as my off brand tires started leaking air, weren't balled, but getting close, so for me it was time... I went with Bridgestone Revo3s AT, I have badmouthed the Duelers HTs... as theyre garbage, and I still hold the thought, so Hopefully the Dueler Revo 3 may change my mind... Either way, the swing has apparently smoothed out my issue for a few thousand miles, Ive towed 6x12 trailer from uhaul packed to the brim as well as the bed, and I've bottomed out a few times. She started the boble again yesterday, so far its only been done once since the new tires, but it was barely noticeable... so, once I find the suspension I will swap those out and update..

The suspension took a few field trips as I meant to change them, but time ran out and when you move time flies, although I wish it would go alot more like math class where you feel 2 hours have gone by and its only been 3 minutes...

Additionally P0505 Idle control is back... I think she hates the heat now... also C1201 ABS code are back... I'll do a more thourough cleaning since I put alot of stuff off due to my move...

 

This will be long winded....

C1201 has finally been cleared.... It took me a minute to figure it out, but its done... P0505 I will do later this week, since I need an oil change soon eitherway.

Symptoms of the C1201 which is an ABS code it was intermittent at first along with my P0505. I would clear those and it would be gone, until the next time. They both would come together, and I was paranoid so I ran the OBD2 almost constantly...
So, there seemed a loss of power with transmission shifting normally, but the truck felt heavy or like being held back... Limp mode on the transmission?? I guess... All i know is that at 70, Corollas were passing me up. I felt my speed was off, tried Google GPS but it wouldn't show my speed, I'll retry today... Additionally ABS and EBD were inoperable. I did skid like I did with my 02 non-abs Celica.. took s longer distance to stop.

Now this is important as this is only for C1201 code only which for me became permanent last month.

If C1201 co.es with some other code, that would lead you to a wheel sensor or something else.

Ok Fix
Disclaimer: I don't take any responsibility on any damage done to your vehicle, would recommend you taking it to a mechanic.. All work is at your own risk.

So, I followed this guide for Zero Point Calibration:

Read
https://ricksfreeautorepairadvice.c...heel speed sensors have a,get is a C1201 code.

Video
https://youtu.be/rWZE7guAuJM

My dumbass didn't do it properly, so it took me a week to do it, eitherway..

Your truck will require to be on level ground, no inclination, wheels and steering wheel has to be straight.

For this you will need the thin paperclips, thick ones don't fit, ask me how I know.

I'll write this out in case stuff disappears in the future...

Straightenout paperclips and slide them into pin 4 CG and pin 8 TS on the OBD2 port. I hooked the paperclips like the video showed. So J hooks out of the obd2 port.
I put the keys in the ignition and turned it to the 'on' position and waited for the system check. Once it was done, meaning most lights on the dash turn off, I began to make contact with the paperclips. It takes about 8 times, and yes the CEL will blink everytime you jump them.

This will trigger the ABS and traction control to blink uncoordinated. So this means you're good to go.

Turn the key to off again and this time hold the paperclips together and turn back to 'On' and you will notice both ABS and traction control will blink together. Now, I saw my traction control blink 2 or 3 time along with the ABS and theu turned off by themselves. You're now finished.

Now take it for a drive as straight as possible at 25mph or higher.

I felt my truck is back to normal operating condition, EBD and ABS are back working as intended. Hope this helps some one in the future. I wrote it up since some sites have been gone and youtube vids disappear, as I've seen in other sites.

 

If you have a loss of zero point data, I would be looking at what you have plugged into your OBD port! Some insurance dongles that plug into there can cause that exact issue.

 

I don't use non of that bs... only thing I plug in is the OBD2 reader... This week were paperclips to try and clear the code without wiping the memory nor disconnecting the battery..

 

Today P2714 came back along with a new code of P0751.... I did notice a couple of days ago a slippage between 2nd and 3rd gear as if the transmission was confused about which gear to go with it Revs bounced between 2 and 5 before it engaged at 4k rpm and shifted normally ... It was under heavy acceleration while turning left out of a steep driveway as on coming traffic was heavy... Revs were between 4k to 5k... Transmission has behaved completely normal, still have all 6 gears no additional slippage noticed... So I have not completed the whole drain and fill, so that will be done on my next day off since my work days are cartwheeling around since I am the new guy at work......

Yeah!!!! fuck me, right....