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Towing VS Moderate Off-road Build Advice

Discussion in 'General Tundra Discussion' started by Enzof104, Jan 2, 2021.

  1. Jan 2, 2021 at 5:35 AM
    #1
    Enzof104

    Enzof104 [OP] Have Trailer will Travel

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    Ironman Foam Cell Pro Lift. 2018 retro fit LED headlights, TRD grill, TRD rear sway bar.
    Okay folks, looking for some suggestions on direction. I come from sport car background so still learning all the ins and outs of truck suspensions since getting my truck last year. I’ve done the search but am getting more confused and lost as I go down each rabbit hole.

    2015 DC TRD Off-road. 97k miles. Using 18inch TRD OR wheels blacked out which I happen to like and prefer not to replace and save that $ for other mods. I tow a 6k# camper several times a year so need a suspension that won’t mess me up there.
    Recently signed up for a few moderate off-road excursions and I’d like to start getting into that a bit. Nothing too gnarly though. Need something that works with both scenarios.

    thinking about a 3 inch lift with Bilsteins. 5100 okay? Great price of course. Or, 6112/5160s better option. Will be DIYing but have limited budget and don’t want to go too crazy.
    Then tires - what works with my rims and lift that will get me through daily driving and the occasional OR trip without making towing compromises? Have 270/65/18 ATs now.

    finally, what else do I need? Say all in budget is under 4K.

    any and all help appreciated.
     
  2. Jan 2, 2021 at 5:48 AM
    #2
    Terndrerrr

    Terndrerrr guzzling dealer repellent

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    I’ll vote for 6112/5160. Set your front to +2”, and you won’t need new UCAs. Multiple larger tire sizes will fit.

    If you don’t want to go too crazy, 275/70r18 is a common upgrade with zero figment issues. 285/70r18 is a great “middle ground” size between daily driving and off roading, but only a few manufacturers make tires in that size. Search Discount Tire’s site by size to see what comes up.

    I have +2” up front from going with the TRD Fox coilovers, and I am running 285/75r18 Duratracs. They’re basically 35x11.5s. They fit fine although I do get a tiny bit of rubbing on the front fender at full lock on ground that isn’t flat/level.

    If you go with 295/70r18, they’re going to require trimming and/or pushing the fender liners back, and they just barely clear the UCAs.

    Last two things I’d get are a skid plate (I have the RCI) and a kit to relocate the rear axle breather valve. Search the forum; there’s a lot of info on all of the above.
     
  3. Jan 2, 2021 at 5:49 AM
    #3
    Nm6300'asl

    Nm6300'asl New Member

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    I am running the 6112-5160 combo with toytech shackles firestone bags with daystar cradles and 295-70-18 on stock wheels. It works well on/offroad and when towing heavy. Have a bit over 95k miles since installed without a hiccup.
     
    Sunnier and Enzof104[OP] like this.
  4. Jan 2, 2021 at 7:24 AM
    #4
    AZBoatHauler

    AZBoatHauler SSEM#140/ASCM#3/2ndGenNaysayer/BAF140

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    Demello / SOB Fab Bumpers, SuperWinch, WKOR sliders, RCI skids, Baja Designs lighting, Billy 6112 and 5160 w/ CB +2, JL Audio with Alpine HU, DD 10" Exhaust, LED headlights, Rago fab mounts, 35” BFG, HAM radio
    I agree with all this and you may want to throw on an extended shackle (I run a CB+2) to maintain some rake for towing. I use my truck as you described and this setup is performs significantly better than the stock TRD OR package.
     
    Enzof104[OP] likes this.
  5. Jan 2, 2021 at 7:37 AM
    #5
    Enzof104

    Enzof104 [OP] Have Trailer will Travel

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    Ironman Foam Cell Pro Lift. 2018 retro fit LED headlights, TRD grill, TRD rear sway bar.
    Thanks guys. Sounds like the 6112s are the route. I’ll look into the shackle and bags as well.
     
  6. Jan 2, 2021 at 8:34 AM
    #6
    Terndrerrr

    Terndrerrr guzzling dealer repellent

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    Yeah, I forgot to add that. I'm running CB+2 in the back as well. CB+2s are supposed to add 1.25" of lift, but I am sitting a bit higher than that. Eyeballing it, I have the same rake I had with the factory TRD OR package, just 2" higher all around.

    The deal is (and this isn't a very popular idea around here), my rear end settled to 3/4" higher after I installed the TRD Fox shocks. I measured, drove it around, measured again a week later. It never settled back to the same distance from the center of the hub. Everything is installed correctly.

    A couple guys on here told me that's impossible because shocks don't add lift. I agree, generally speaking. But my measurements before and after with an empty bed say otherwise. Not all shocks are created equally, and the OR and Pro shocks are wildly different. No, shocks don't "hold up" the truck like springs do, but they do exert forces in the same direction as the springs, thus helping a bit. The difference between the OR and the Pro shocks in the rear of my truck is enough to make a 3/4" difference when my bed is empty, as I measured.

    My truck rides and performs a thousand times better than stock, and I'm sitting on giant Duratracs. Very happy with my setup.
     
  7. Jan 2, 2021 at 11:58 AM
    #7
    AZBoatHauler

    AZBoatHauler SSEM#140/ASCM#3/2ndGenNaysayer/BAF140

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    Ha. I hear ya. I observed the TRD OR shocks didn’t sag as much as OEM black shocks under a load and was also told that’s impossible. :notsure:
     
    Terndrerrr[QUOTED] likes this.
  8. Jan 2, 2021 at 12:35 PM
    #8
    Enzof104

    Enzof104 [OP] Have Trailer will Travel

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    Ironman Foam Cell Pro Lift. 2018 retro fit LED headlights, TRD grill, TRD rear sway bar.
    so the question is this... Are the Bilstein 5160 with shackle going to give me lift over the OR shocks on the truck now? I actually dont mind a bit of a rake towards the front since I tow and would rather be balanced when towing than daily. Just want to make sure I get a bit more height than I have now to clear while taking it off road.
    After reading more was thinking 6112s with a slight shim. Would that require new UCAs too? would like to avoid that.
     
  9. Jan 2, 2021 at 12:48 PM
    #9
    frichco228

    frichco228 Valued Member

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    Eibach Pro Truck Stage 2 suspension, HD RAS, 285/75-18 Nokian Outpost AT, LoPro bed cover, TRD rear sway bar, DD 10 inch exhaust, and various other goodies
    5100 or 6112s are adjustable = 3 different lift heights, about an inch, 1.9 and 2.5. At 2 inches or less of lift, no need for UCA. And sometimes you can get away with no UCAs with 2.5 to 3 inches of lift, but alignment will be harder to get right. At 2.5 or more you will be happier with UCAs, it will drive better and alignment can be adjusted correctly.

    Either of those options will ride higher than what you have now on your stock SR5. The 5100s you use your stock coils. 6112s come with coils, and cost more due to that and the beefier shock.

    5160s are the rear shocks for a truck with an inch or two of lift. The shocks do not provide the lift, 5160s are longer/more travel for use WITH some sort of rear lift, like a shackle or block.
     
    Enzof104[QUOTED][OP] likes this.
  10. Jan 2, 2021 at 12:50 PM
    #10
    GODZILLA

    GODZILLA Hail to the King, Baby.

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    The thing that is going to give you more ground clearance off road is going to be bigger tires. The suspension lift will just make it easier to accommodate the larger tires.
     
  11. Jan 2, 2021 at 2:11 PM
    #11
    Enzof104

    Enzof104 [OP] Have Trailer will Travel

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    Ironman Foam Cell Pro Lift. 2018 retro fit LED headlights, TRD grill, TRD rear sway bar.
    Now it’s all coming together. The part about what actually gives the lift and when to replace the UCAs makes more sense now. I was getting confused with shims, blocks, spacers, and shackles and when to use what as well.

    Where I’m at now:
    Front - 6112s up front with the possibility of new UCAs depending on how high I want to go. Was thinking the middle setting as a compromise as mentioned by a few of you. Do I need the diff drop for this?
    Rear - 5160s with shackle and looking into bags for towing but may do that after I see how it all goes.
    Then skid plate for sure and will likely replace the NFab steps with some sliders. Hate having to do that part since the wife and kid appreciate the steps, and I love them when washing the truck.
    Haven’t decided on tires yet...

    sound good so far?

    REALLY appreciate the help! I’m a big DIY’r and can do all the work, just don’t have the expertise and our local shop is more of a Jeep guy. He told me just to add spacers so knew that wasn’t going to work.
     
  12. Jan 2, 2021 at 2:12 PM
    #12
    Terndrerrr

    Terndrerrr guzzling dealer repellent

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    You too, huh? Haha.

    I think people get caught up in what a part’s primary job is (the shock’s being absorbing movement) and ignore natural side-effects of that job (it is pushing up on the frame and down on the axle along with the springs). How shocks do their primary job varies from shock to shock. No one has any problem with that at all! But somehow that doesn’t translate to how the side-effects of that job also vary from shock to shock. Different shocks can exert different forces. While neither the OR Bilstein nor the TRD Fox could hold the truck up by themselves in the rear, they do help the springs differently. That difference netted me 3/4” of lift in the rear.

    Coachbuilder shackles will give you 1.25” of lift (if you go with the +2 kit) or 1.75” of lift (if you go with the +3 kit). Check out the big 6112/5160 thread and see what people who added CBs to the rear are reporting.
     
    AZBoatHauler[QUOTED] likes this.
  13. Jan 2, 2021 at 3:29 PM
    #13
    Sunnier

    Sunnier Pity the warrior that slays all his foes

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    No, you don’t need to do a diff drop. You likely don’t need shims. Avoid maxing out the height adjustment and your ride should be comfortable and allow upgraded tires for additional clearance offf-road.

    Read that thread recommended in the post above, which will probably included info on applications similar to what you want to do.
     

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