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To FLUSH or NOT to FLUSH that is the question.

Discussion in '2nd Gen Tundras (2007-2013)' started by MannyMan, Mar 6, 2020.

  1. Mar 6, 2020 at 12:43 PM
    #1
    MannyMan

    MannyMan [OP] New Member

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    Hi All,

    My 2nd Gen Tundra truck just passed the 100K mile mark and I was told by my mechanic that the Transmission Fluid system was a sealed system and not due for a service until it hit 100K.

    Since then I have read on this and other forums that only flush when you have a problem. That the recommended is to drain and refill.
    But without the fluid being pumped out a draining of the fluid would only remove some of the fluid.
    So what do the master mechanics on the forum say?

    Please reply with your expert opinion.
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2020
  2. Mar 6, 2020 at 12:54 PM
    #2
    KissMyAxe1

    KissMyAxe1 New Member

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    I'm no expert, but I took mine in to get the tranny flushed. Most people on here say to just drain and fill, and if you're doing that every 30k miles, you're probably just as well. From my understanding, doing a flush could potentially push gunk into your solenoids causing blockage, which makes the transmission not shift. But if the tranny is clean, you're probably just fine getting a flush. It also sounds like the important thing is getting your transmission filter changed, and the magnets cleaned. Both of which you can do on your own if you drain and drop the pan.

    For me personally, I'll just take mine to get it flushed every 60k miles, as it'll save me time. (I enjoy wrenching around, but I'm terribly slow with a wrench..) And the mechanic I take it too is a good dude who I trust.
     
    MannyMan [OP] likes this.
  3. Mar 6, 2020 at 12:54 PM
    #3
    blackoutt

    blackoutt YEAH BUDDY!

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    Clearly the transmission. Don't flush it, gently do a fluid exchange through the trans cooler line. This is more complete than a drain and fill, and less invasive than a power flush.
     
  4. Mar 6, 2020 at 1:04 PM
    #4
    RCdadfor2

    RCdadfor2 New Member

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    My Toyota dealer recommends a flush and they flush it at the dealer. that said there are some cheaper power flush systems at the lube shops that use higher pressure pumps.
     
  5. Mar 6, 2020 at 1:16 PM
    #5
    snivilous

    snivilous New Member

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    I drain and fill the pan every few oil changes. Keeps the fluid fresh.
     
    Zebruaj likes this.
  6. Mar 6, 2020 at 1:20 PM
    #6
    TXTundra2722

    TXTundra2722 Pipe Hitters Union

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    Here I was reading the thread headliner and briefly wondered if you dropped a monster off in the toilet..... maybe it's just me.
    :burp:
    :poking:
     
    mb66, Trooper2, omgboost and 2 others like this.
  7. Mar 6, 2020 at 1:27 PM
    #7
    omgboost

    omgboost The Accountant

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    If he was in a public one, I'd say don't flush it so other people can bask in the glory of that smell.
     
    TXTundra2722 likes this.
  8. Mar 6, 2020 at 1:35 PM
    #8
    Larly5000

    Larly5000 New Member

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    Did a full 12qt fluid exchange at 75k and again at 150k. It takes an extra 10 minutes over a 3-4 qt drain and fill.

    Don’t go to a cheap oil change spot and have them “power” flush.
     
    JohnLakeman and blackoutt like this.
  9. Mar 6, 2020 at 1:52 PM
    #9
    MannyMan

    MannyMan [OP] New Member

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    @beef tits Sorry for the omission. I corrected my original post to include. "Transmission Fluid system"
     
  10. Mar 6, 2020 at 1:55 PM
    #10
    MannyMan

    MannyMan [OP] New Member

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    @blackoutt Thx for the advice and if I understand you correctly, you're speaking of just replacing the fluid with new fluid. Is that correct?
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2020
  11. Mar 6, 2020 at 2:10 PM
    #11
    blackoutt

    blackoutt YEAH BUDDY!

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    MannyMan [OP] likes this.
  12. Mar 6, 2020 at 3:19 PM
    #12
    MannyMan

    MannyMan [OP] New Member

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    @blackoutt Thank you again for the link to what I believe to be the most detailed procedural steps complete with photos that I have ever seen.

    I wish I could do my own work but HOA rules you know. With those instructions I would definitely give it a go.

    What's the solution if you're not able to do your own work?
     
    Last edited: Mar 6, 2020
  13. Mar 6, 2020 at 3:22 PM
    #13
    frichco228

    frichco228 Valued Member

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    Ditto to no flush....just a drain and fill and you will be golden
     
    MTRock likes this.
  14. Mar 6, 2020 at 3:24 PM
    #14
    teedubbya

    teedubbya I like fat booty

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    People still promoting the ole ‘throw 3 quarts of clean oil in with ya dirty oil’ procedure :duh::duh::duh::duh:
     
  15. Mar 6, 2020 at 3:26 PM
    #15
    MTRock

    MTRock 1889

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    No flush..!
     
    MannyMan [OP] likes this.
  16. Mar 6, 2020 at 3:28 PM
    #16
    computeruser6

    computeruser6 Climate heretic

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    Draining and inspecting the pan is fine. There's more than one way to go about this but you'll be fine if you don't change it all out at once.

    08 TUNDRA-TR-200213.jpg

    Pay the dealer or a mechanic you trust $100-150 to perform the work for you. Waiting for the proper temperature is the longest part of the procedure.
     
    MannyMan [OP] likes this.
  17. Mar 6, 2020 at 3:45 PM
    #17
    Failure2comply

    Failure2comply Master HVAC Tech

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    My truck has 126k miles. Last Saturday my son-in-law and I dropped the transmission pan, cleaned the magnets (which had almost nothing on them), replaced the strainer, o-ring, and pan gasket with OEM parts. The fluid looked very good but with a slight dark tint, no burnt smell at all. I replaced approx. 5.5 qts of Toyota WS fluid. I will drain and fill again in a few months as my truck gets very little mileage on it since we have three vehicles. A word of advice to anyone that has low mileage on their trucks, the front two bolts extend up through the transmission. Mine were so rusted stuck that they both snapped off with very little torque. Keep in mind that my truck has almost zero rust under it. A complete fluid exchange with out power flushing would be the best way to go.

    Had Toyota put a cap or some gasket adhesive on top of the bolt threads, they would probably have come off as easy as the ones that do not go all the way through. So if you are going to remove them, wire brush them and spray them down with Kroil several days in advance. We had to drill them out to the bare edge of the bolt threads and then use a tap to slowly back out the old bolt remains. Pain in the ass laying on the ground!

    I am rethinking getting a 9k lb two post lift for my garage.
     
    JohnLakeman and MannyMan [OP] like this.
  18. Mar 7, 2020 at 7:01 PM
    #18
    truckguy84

    truckguy84 New Member

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    Im not going to flush or drain and fill. Many have gone 200-400k miles without this

    oh I just read you are looking for a master mechanic.... that’s not me lol
     
    MannyMan [OP] likes this.
  19. Mar 8, 2020 at 6:38 AM
    #19
    JohnLakeman

    JohnLakeman Burning Internet Daylight

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    Flush?...No.

    If you have an ATF cooler with lines up to the front, e.g. tow package, and you have the mechanical skills to do it, a gentle, careful exchange of all the fluid through cooler lines by youTube video is best. If you don't have the front cooler, you'll need really good mechanical skills to do the exchange. I believe it can be done, but it would be an engineering challenge.

    If you have an HOA, you must have a garage. What happens in your garage with the door down, stays in your garage.
     
    MannyMan [OP] likes this.
  20. Mar 8, 2020 at 7:56 AM
    #20
    Tileguy

    Tileguy New Member

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    405,000 miles and no flush ever. Running like new.
     
    truckguy84 likes this.
  21. Mar 9, 2020 at 11:40 AM
    #21
    MannyMan

    MannyMan [OP] New Member

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    Hi All,

    Thank you for all your inputs and advice.

    I have been convinced that "NO FLUSH" is the correct move.

    I will see if I can get someone to perform the gentle flush that I finally found on you tube: https://youtu.be/kkrSZ26uKm8 2007 Toyota Tundra Transmission Filter Service & Flush.

     

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