Timing belt time.

Hello everyone, I've recently realized that my timing belt is due for a change (2002 Seqouia 170k). I popped the cover and it has no cracks but I bought it used and want that peace of mind. I searched for DIY tutorials here but didn't find anything useful perhaps someone knows of a good source? I've read my Chilton manual and watched YouTube vids and it doesn't seem too bad. Has anyone here done the job? It could be done in one day right? Any tips?

 

Not sure how much this can help you out here... its a 1UZ word on the street they're fairly similar, except for a few things here and there, but its a general idea. Very involved...

http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/engine/timingbelt.html

 

Day job for sure if you have all the right tools and components. One special tool I can think of is the crank pulley holder. Also a big torque wrench.

Drive belt, water pump, gasket maker, timing belt, tensioner, t-stat, coolant.. Few of the parts I can think of off top of my head. Probably forgetting something.

Find the toyota factory service manual online. Much better details. Also youtube will surely have some walkthroughs to familiarize yourself with process first.

 

I will second Youtube and the factory service manual...

 

Yeah I've got the special tools you mentioned plus a pulley puller and a crank pully holder too. I don't think I'll need a new tstat. I've seen the ytube vids plenty of times, just my first time doing it.

 

Solid Two Day Job.

The Coolant Flushing, Cam/Crank Seals, Alt Replace, and Feather Dusting added half a day and took me into 3 day territory.

 

What's feather dusting?

 

My journey started at Post 22285

https://www.tundras.com/threads/what-have-you-done-to-your-1st-gen-tundra-today.2558/page-743


Here are the things performed. Skip and go back a few pages on the above link and you’ll see my parts used. Best vids to watch are A1 Auto and Ostram DIY 1 and 2.

 

Took me two days. Used a Chilton's manual as my only source of info. Did the radiator replacement at the same time since it had to come out. Replaced the thermostat. Did not do cam/crank seals as neither looked to be leaking and I wasn't trying to stir anything up. Good time for the accessory belt if you haven't replaced it. Definitely need a torque wrench, a good impact gun is great for the crank pulley. I do not think I would have the patience to properly do the job in one day. And there's always a bolt, or that tool, or that part, or something that will need to be fetched before the job can be complete. Beware of the cam sensors. Be sure to properly return the wiring to it's original position. Think it's gotten a few people here. Beware the water pump gasket. That union has leaked on more than one person here after assembly before as well. Good luck with this job, it is very involved, but the Chilton's shot me straight and made the job easy. If you're a visual person, watch a couple youtube videos beforehand to become familiar with the steps and what they look like. The 2000-2004 look different than the 2005-2006 VVTi, be sure you're looking at the right info.

 

Thanks, I've seen those vids more than a few times, ill also add that Gdupler has a decent vid, although he added the belt backwards. He does show most of the steps except the belt installation.

 

You should be good then. I went all in on my job as it was the second Replacement and heard the Cam/Cranks Seal should be replaced. They only cost about $30 total.

Not sure what happened, but I’m not complaining about it. My Engine Coolant Temps dropped from 195-201° down to 183-185° steady. I think it was due to the Prestone Flushings which takes tons of time.

 

Or maybe it could have been the brand new radiator you installed?

 

Yeah. Could be that too. For grins, I cut it open and inspected the thing. Looked clean as a whistle.

I used the New Toyota Parts Programme where you pick up from your local without delivery charges. Some stuff like Aisin Fan Bracket and Aisin WP Kit were ordered online.

 

I always match mark the old belt before removal with the timing marks on cam and crank pulleys, then lay old belt on new belt and transfer the timing marks. When installing new belt be sure those marks match. Just one more way to be sure you don't mess with the timing.

If you have the toyota super long life pink coolant, recommend you stick with that and buy from dealer. $$ but 100k miles rated and then don't have hassle of mixing colors.

I could do it in a day, but I start early and have done several timing belt jobs over the years. Take your time and be thorough.

 

Sounds like it was a pricey job but well worth it.
I've been getting a ticking sound when I turn on the AC button and it's noticeable during acceleration too, I'm hoping this job could help with that somehow.

 

I use Toyota red and have some for this job but what is your opinion about Zerex Asian red?

 

Yeah. Just Parts were around $1500 all added up. Stuff is $$$ these days. Maybe could have saved going off brand but too many bad stories on this forum.

Local Stealer and another shop quoted me respectively $4200 and $3500 (parts and labor) for the entire job. Both wanted it for two days.

That Toyota Parts Programme is a good deal. The parts guy at my local stealer was a mechanic for many years and said the employee discount barely gets a better price. Helps that the guy wrenched for years when walking me through the job.

 

I used the Valvoline Zerex Red. Meets all the Japanese Specs.

Valvoline ‘Zerex’ Red costs about $15 a gallon. Same formula ‘Zerex’ Red Costs $21.

Toy LL $30? The LL doesn’t matter to me as the fluid will be refreshed every 2-3 years from now on.

 

My system only took a little over gallon when I did the flush after buying it. I have a gallon and a half of the toyota red just sitting there but after I use that up I'll probably move on to Zerex.

 

I bought 4 gallons and used 3.3 (system spec capacity).

Drain at the oil cooler hose on the drivers side (lowest spot) will let every last drop out of that side which has the TB Coolant and Oil Cooler Lines on that plumbing.

On the pass side, open the Sill Cock on the Engine Block to drain that side.

 

Actually it took a little over 2 gallons, I forgot that it was concentrated and mixed with water. I failed to drain from the block the first time but will do that this time, thanks.

 

I just used Toyota SLL pink and didn't worry about cost difference. So no opinion on other brands, but I'm sure they are fine.

There is a difference between Toyota red and Toyota pink though. Red is typical couple year replacement. Pink is 100k.

 

I thought pink was just diluted red? I remeber reading a thread where someone did a chemical analysis on it.

 

Nope. They are different. I have both in my garage for different vehicles.

 

Could just be a marketing ploy by Toyota. But I'd have a hard time Believing they say same thing has to be changed 2 year and 20k vs 10 years and 100k. I'm not positive on those numbers though. But definitely 2 different things.

I had pink so replaced with new pink and was done with it.

Figured I'll need a new radiator or something before I get 100k so it will get changed again I'm sure.

 

I wonder if I could mix Zerex with Toyota red, I only have a gallon left of the red, pretty sure I'll need more for my upcoming flush.

 

Yep
Really good deal ordering online and picking up at the dealer
I just discovered this a few months ago when I bought my Tundra and have been using it a lot since.
Really wish I’d found this forum before I had my timing job done by my mechanic he uses advanced auto for parts and I got the tb, water pump and tensioner changed with dayco parts vs oem unfortunately also wasn’t aware of the camshaft seals that should’ve been replaced as preventative maintenance
Anyway not trying to derail the thread