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Time for new Lower Control Arms

Discussion in '1st Gen Tundras (2000-2006)' started by FirstGenVol, Nov 20, 2022.

  1. Nov 21, 2022 at 11:00 AM
    #31
    Festerw

    Festerw New Member

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    Possibility they do warn about using it on natural rubber.
     
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  2. Nov 23, 2022 at 11:06 AM
    #32
    rock climber

    rock climber New Member

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    I pressed out the bushings on my old T100 with a bottle jack and then put the new ones in with the o'reilly rental c clamp tool. It wasn't bad at all, but I have heard horror stories about our trucks. If you could get the siberian bushings that's what I'd recommend, but I hear they are basically unobtainable right now.
     
  3. Nov 23, 2022 at 12:11 PM
    #33
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol [OP] ABS light OG

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    When I replace mine, I'll avoid the
    Who makes these Siberian bushings you speak of?
     
  4. Nov 23, 2022 at 12:27 PM
    #34
    Jack McCarthy

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    Last edited: Nov 23, 2022
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  5. Nov 23, 2022 at 1:22 PM
    #35
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol [OP] ABS light OG

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  6. Nov 23, 2022 at 1:29 PM
    #36
    Jack McCarthy

    Jack McCarthy Navigating the luminiferous ether to see the light

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    Well if you find them in stock on Amazon; they seem to carry the brand. Either that or buy from their US distributor/retailer.
     
  7. Nov 23, 2022 at 2:03 PM
    #37
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol [OP] ABS light OG

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    I'm pretty sure @shifty` will kill me if I try ordering those from Amazon.

    I just wish I knew more about these. They would save me a ton of money over buying new arms.
     
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  8. Nov 23, 2022 at 4:57 PM
    #38
    shifty`

    shifty` Mongrel Architect

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    Installing bushings is a freaking bitch. I'm not going to lie.

    One of my friends is a big p-car and bimmer nut. Long time ago, on a couple of his cars we melted out the old ones to hammer in the new, because we didn't have a press that was worth a damn. I've done some stupid shit in my time. But I hate doing bushings.
     
  9. Nov 23, 2022 at 6:45 PM
    #39
    Hi06silver

    Hi06silver Fat. Thumbs.

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    If you have a little bottle jack and a vise it isn't that hard as long as they aren't fuckin rusted in the arms. I didn't have to melt mine.iirc I think we may have slightly heated up the arm itself while cranking the jack. It's a slow process but it can work. Just clean up the arms after of any crap inside and freeze the new bushings so they go in easier.
    Timmy the tool man has a video on it on YT if ya haven't found that already
     
  10. Nov 23, 2022 at 7:06 PM
    #40
    shifty`

    shifty` Mongrel Architect

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    That's effectively what we did, except he had a clamp attachment for a bottle jack to make it into a press. But the bushings were tough as hell, big flange on both ends, we really needed a heavier press. So we ended up melting the bushings by heating the arms because that's "what everyone else does".

    The black good that resulted got on everything, our clothes, the driveway, parts, the car... bug and tar remover got it off the metal and painted parts, I ended up chucking my clothes because they made everything smell like burnt rubber.
     
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  11. Nov 23, 2022 at 7:10 PM
    #41
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol [OP] ABS light OG

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    So far the responses in this thread are tied. It's either:

    "installing new bushings isn't that hard"

    or

    "It's a complete nightmare installing new bushings"
     
  12. Nov 23, 2022 at 7:27 PM
    #42
    Diablo169

    Diablo169 ROKRAPR

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    New Arms, and hope the Cam Sleeves aren’t seized.

    FCFF6D28-D9F8-4211-A049-6F8878C84C9C.jpg
     
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  13. Nov 23, 2022 at 7:44 PM
    #43
    shifty`

    shifty` Mongrel Architect

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    Maybe people have different views of what's "hard" and what's not? I really dunno.

    Honestly, rubber bushings are, IMO, a bitch. But they ride so sweet, and squeak-free. They're like assembling struts for me: I've done enough in my lifetime, I don't want or need to do them ever again. It can be (and usually has been) a tedious job that takes twice as long as it should. I can count on one hand the number of times when I didn't need to do something that - in the moment - either seems really stupid, desperate, or not what I expected when starting the job.

    Maybe people just have better tools than me? I have a LOT of damn tools. I don't have a ton of specialized press-and-pull style tools, just the usual assortments of clamp-style stuff for pulleys, HBs, steering wheels, etc. Neither do most of the friends I used to wrench with (why does everyone keep moving away?!), I guess. Maybe that's where my grief and frustration is coming from? I dunno.

    Damn! Had to cut off the passenger upper? What's up with that?

    Got the whole gamut of tools out, glad to see another yellow team member. What'd you decide on for the new uppers, I must've missed it?

    EDIT: Two impacts? :D
     
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  14. Nov 23, 2022 at 8:05 PM
    #44
    Diablo169

    Diablo169 ROKRAPR

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    That’s actually the LCA. I tried a different method of removing seized LCA, cutting the arm off, grinding down the stubs that stick out of the frame tabs, and then prying them out. Worked quicker than reciprocating the sleeves. Last time I went through 12 Diablo Blades.

    Over the years I probably have cut off over 8 LCA’s on multiple model Yotas.

    Lol, the midsize impact wouldn’t remove the crank pulley bolt, so I needed the bigger one :rofl:

    All this on a clean CA Sequoia :frusty:
     
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  15. Nov 23, 2022 at 8:13 PM
    #45
    shifty`

    shifty` Mongrel Architect

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    Oh shit, I totally missed the lower shock mount. I saw the upper on the right and jumped to assume mode. Now I see the lower tucked back in the back, and passenger upper hiding behind the WD40. I guess details aren't my strong suit this close to midnight :D
     
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  16. Nov 23, 2022 at 8:25 PM
    #46
    Hi06silver

    Hi06silver Fat. Thumbs.

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    Holy balls! I'd say this may sway anyone to just buy new arms. @FirstGenVol like you mentioned earlier, if the new loaded arms were less than a hundo more than new bushings on sale I'd probably go that route. At least it totally avoids the headache of pressing and melting shit etc. I did it to save money but I swear 2 new loaded arms where gonna be like 750+ when I looked them up back then. I did end up mangling one of the hubs so it sorta negated the savings some.
     
  17. Nov 23, 2022 at 9:00 PM
    #47
    Diablo169

    Diablo169 ROKRAPR

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    I actually originally bought new bushings. Then after the effort to get the seized arms off I said screw it and returned the bushings and bought new arms.
    :spending:
     
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  18. Nov 23, 2022 at 10:56 PM
    #48
    Tundra2

    Tundra2 Zoinked

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    Just for time, and convenience sake, I say get new arms. You-know-what what the Toyota arms are about. You got 21 years out of em, and they still aren't technically "bad" per se, they're just slowly going bad. Lol
     
  19. Nov 23, 2022 at 11:06 PM
    #49
    des2mtn

    des2mtn Ridgeline with a 4-speed

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    I believe the other two brands for bushings to look into for LCA other than Siberian are Daystar and Whiteline.

    When my LCA bushings were completely done for, I went for brand new Toyota LCAs. If Solo LCAs were available at the time, I would have bought them instead. I had read plenty about replacing the bushings using a normal press, or buying a HF press, or using the OEM Toyota jack. I also saw a few posts of people bending their arms using a press. I reused my OEM cam bolts etc. Minor surface rust on them, but I ground that off and applied anti-seize. I sold my original arms to someone who was more motivated to replace the bushings and didn't lose too much. In retrospect, doing it this way was so much more convenient.
     
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  20. Nov 23, 2022 at 11:06 PM
    #50
    Tundra2

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    Oh,, and about the ball joints? I'd just get new bolts, but reuse the ball joints. Have you seen the spiker engineering bolt thread?
     
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  21. Nov 24, 2022 at 5:23 AM
    #51
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol [OP] ABS light OG

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    That thread was long and confusing. I need to read it again. But that was my thoughts too. I'll just buy new bolts and reuse the lower ball joints.
     
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  22. Nov 24, 2022 at 6:52 AM
    #52
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol [OP] ABS light OG

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    I wish I was better at reading these diagrams. @jpink sent me his parts list from when he ordered all these last year. I think they are the same for my access cab but trying to confirm.

    Serra Toyota has the lower control arms marked down to $212. John paid $250 last year.
    • 9008011275 alignment bolt front x 2
    • 9008011410 alignment bolt rear x 2
    • 9011910933 LBJ replacement bolts x 9 (ordering 1 extra because I know myself)
    • 4806834020 Lower control arm-Right
    • 4806934020 Lower control arm-Left
    • 4840934020 camber eccentric front outside x 2 ?
    • 4845235020 camber eccentric front/rear inside x 4?
    • 4840934030 camber eccentric rear outside x 2
    • need more coffee before I place my order. Seems like I'm forgetting something
    upload_2022-11-24_9-33-15.jpg



    upload_2022-11-24_9-58-26.jpg
     
    Last edited: Nov 24, 2022
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  23. Nov 24, 2022 at 7:03 AM
    #53
    Jack McCarthy

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    The Milwaukee mid-torque? I just bought one for big jobs like that. 600 ft-lbs isn’t enough?
     
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  24. Nov 24, 2022 at 7:06 AM
    #54
    Jack McCarthy

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    @FirstGenVol I would definitely keep the original arms if you plan to buy aftermarket or another set of OEM LCAs and put bushings in them as a back up.

    I’m sure a lot of us are going to need a 20-ton press capability when it’s time to do wheel bearings.
     
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  25. Nov 24, 2022 at 11:48 AM
    #55
    Diablo169

    Diablo169 ROKRAPR

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    I think my midsize DeWalt is 700ftlb and it didn’t remove the crank bolt.

    The big DeWalt impact didn’t even hesitate, instantly popped it off.
     
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  26. Nov 24, 2022 at 11:50 AM
    #56
    Diablo169

    Diablo169 ROKRAPR

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    You should only need the Cam Sleeves, not the Bolt or Cam Nut.

    The Cam Sleeves are what get seized into the LCA Bushings.
     
  27. Nov 24, 2022 at 12:58 PM
    #57
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol [OP] ABS light OG

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    So the sleeve is the eccentric? So many different names for the same thing.
     
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  28. Nov 24, 2022 at 1:28 PM
    #58
    Jack McCarthy

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    The CAM nut works with the sleeve to perform the eccentric adjustment. The nut and bolt won’t seize, but the CAM sleeve which passes through the inner sleeve of the bushing are what typically seize together if not greased. I just bought 4 CAM sleeves and returned the two front since I didn’t use them.
     
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  29. Nov 24, 2022 at 1:35 PM
    #59
    Diablo169

    Diablo169 ROKRAPR

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    Cam/ Eccentric, yes same thing.

    On TacomaWorld, some say that they have seen Seized Bolts as well, but I’m not so sure, the bolt tapers down and is not a snug fit like the Sleeve and Control Arm Bushings are.
     
  30. Nov 24, 2022 at 1:35 PM
    #60
    FirstGenVol

    FirstGenVol [OP] ABS light OG

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    I don't have any cam nuts in my cart though. I get I can remove the bolts, but what else?
     

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