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T100 front rotor change

Discussion in 'Other Toyota Vehicles' started by se3388, Jul 26, 2016.

  1. Jul 26, 2016 at 2:06 PM
    #1
    se3388

    se3388 [OP] New Member

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    I have a 1997 T100 4x4 and am about to change the front rotors, is there a tutorial for changing these, is there anything special to do? I have changed rotors on a couple of dozen vehicles over the years and just want to know if there are any surprises compared to cars and 2x4 trucks. I looked and couldn't find a video for the T100.

    Steve..........
     
  2. Jul 26, 2016 at 2:12 PM
    #2
    Mike

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    yep bank account is running low from it..
    Secure the truck on jack stand..

    Remove tire..

    Unbolt the caliper.. slide it out of the way.. don't stress the hydraulic hose..

    Pull the disc off straight..

    Same as reverse order for assembly.. just put new pads on..

    Torque lugs nuts to spec..

    Enjoy.
     
    bandit, matluth and 2cID like this.
  3. Jul 26, 2016 at 2:26 PM
    #3
    se3388

    se3388 [OP] New Member

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    Sounds like a regular rotor change, I didn't know if the rotors were bolted to the hub on the 4x4's. Thanks for the info.

    Steve..........
     
  4. Jul 26, 2016 at 2:49 PM
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    Mike

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    Nope not bolted..
     
  5. Jul 26, 2016 at 4:37 PM
    #5
    se3388

    se3388 [OP] New Member

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    Just pulled my front wheel off and it is indeed bolted to the hub from the backside so the complete hub will have to be pulled. Man I was hoping to not have to do that. And on top of all that the line to the caliper is a hard line which makes it harder to move the caliper out of the way.

    Steve..........
     
  6. Jul 26, 2016 at 4:42 PM
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    Mike

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    yep bank account is running low from it..
    I just pulled the alldata out.. it's bolted on..

    What a pita.
     
  7. Jul 26, 2016 at 8:08 PM
    #7
    se3388

    se3388 [OP] New Member

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    Do you have a parts diagram of the hub assembly?

    Steve...........
     
  8. Jul 27, 2016 at 5:59 AM
    #8
    se3388

    se3388 [OP] New Member

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    Thanks bandit (bandit sent me a link to a front rotor change) but that is for a 2 wheel drive.

    Steve............
     
  9. Jul 27, 2016 at 7:39 AM
    #9
    Nor7

    Nor7 Chilton Manual Guy

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    Would you like the Chilton manuals to do this?
     
  10. Jul 27, 2016 at 7:48 AM
    #10
    Nor7

    Nor7 Chilton Manual Guy

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    This should be it, the older books aren't as detailed as the newer ones.
     

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  11. Jul 27, 2016 at 7:50 AM
    #11
    Krazie Sj

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    Depending on when the last time those were changed you might need a BFH to break the rust welding that's gonna be securing that sucker to the hub.
     
  12. Jul 27, 2016 at 8:34 AM
    #12
    se3388

    se3388 [OP] New Member

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    Thanks Nor7 but that is not the one for mine. On mine you have to take off the hub to get the disc off. I got the drivers side off and will replace all the bearings and two wheel seals as the previous owner said they have never been changed.

    Krazie Sj

    I thought I would but I stuck a big screw driver in between the hub and disc and gave a twist and it wasn't froze on. It is immaculate underneath as the previous owner never went off roading and only used it when it snowed on the highway, guess that explains why it is a 1997 model with only 130,000 miles on it.

    I just need to go by the Toyota Stealership and get the torque spec's for when it goes back together.

    Steve..........
     
  13. Jul 27, 2016 at 8:44 AM
    #13
    Nor7

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    Hmm, I think it is in there, it says on step 6 to remove the grease cap from the hub then remove the cotter pin and the castellated nut. Then the wheel hub will come off with the brake rotor attached.
     
  14. Jul 27, 2016 at 8:51 AM
    #14
    Nor7

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    Here's a diagram I found and instructions that have better pictures. Hope this helps.

    Edit: Torque specs are in the exploded diagram.
     

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  15. Jul 27, 2016 at 8:53 AM
    #15
    se3388

    se3388 [OP] New Member

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    Definitely not mine, mine you have to remove the grease cup and then remove the 12 mm bolt from the end of the axle the remove all the nuts around the perimeter of the hub and cone washers, remove hub plate, remove lock ring, remove outer 54mm nut, remove inner 54mm nut and then the hub with disc will come off the spindle, then unbolt disc from hub. Why can't it be as simple as the pic's show in your link.

    Steve.......
     
  16. Jul 27, 2016 at 8:54 AM
    #16
    Nor7

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    Sorry man, maybe its something aftermarket. Wish I could have been more help.
     
  17. Jul 27, 2016 at 9:02 AM
    #17
    se3388

    se3388 [OP] New Member

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    Not manual hubs and it is Factory. I found this link and it shows my front hub setup on my 1997 T100. Except my bolts holding the disc to the hub go in from the backside whereas the ones in the video go in from the front side.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FLk4sLXHHWg

    Steve........
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2016
  18. Jul 27, 2016 at 9:02 AM
    #18
    Nor7

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    @se3388 Do you have manual locking hubs?
     

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  19. Jul 27, 2016 at 9:03 AM
    #19
    Nor7

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    Ok, glad you found that. Best of luck to you.
     
  20. Jul 27, 2016 at 9:13 AM
    #20
    se3388

    se3388 [OP] New Member

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    I'm going to need some luck, just the inner grease seal around the spindle is $100.00.

    Steve.........
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2016
  21. Jul 27, 2016 at 9:21 AM
    #21
    Nor7

    Nor7 Chilton Manual Guy

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    Does it look like this?

    [​IMG]
     
  22. Jul 27, 2016 at 9:32 AM
    #22
    se3388

    se3388 [OP] New Member

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    See the video in post 17 above, mine is just like that except I have a 12mm bolt in the end of the axle and my rotor is bolted from the backside.

    Steve..........
     
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2016
  23. Jul 27, 2016 at 9:48 AM
    #23
    Krazie Sj

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    That's fantastic. I know 2nd Gen Tacoma's have 2 threaded holes to insert a (10mm?) bolt into that pops the rotor off easy as can be. After that, liberal application of anti seize was in the future of my truck.
     
  24. Jul 27, 2016 at 10:04 AM
    #24
    se3388

    se3388 [OP] New Member

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    I wish it was as simple as either one of my Taco's, I would have been through yesterday.

    Steve...............
     
  25. Jul 27, 2016 at 12:28 PM
    #25
    Mike

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    Is it a castle nut?
    Can you post a pic of it
     
  26. Jul 28, 2016 at 7:16 PM
    #26
    se3388

    se3388 [OP] New Member

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    Mike

    I'll try to get a pic tomorrow.
    I got the bearings, races, seals and grease all installed along with new rotors and pads. I am now waiting for the axle spindle nut wrench to get here tomorrow morning, didn't order it when I ordered supplies as I thought Oreilly's or Auto Zone would surely have one to loan, surprise surprise they didn't, they didn't even have one on the shelf for sale. No one in town did so Oreilly's ordered it for $14.94. Everything was going great during the reinstall so with the first hub on I realized I put the right rotor on the left side (these are directional) corrected that so now just waiting on the wrench.

    Steve......
     
  27. Jul 28, 2016 at 7:19 PM
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    Mike

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    No worries Steve.
     
  28. Aug 9, 2016 at 10:45 AM
    #28
    se3388

    se3388 [OP] New Member

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    I got everything back together a week or so ago but forgot to take the pic's. I guess I must be getting old.

    Steve...........
     
  29. Sep 19, 2016 at 3:07 PM
    #29
    se3388

    se3388 [OP] New Member

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    Here is the shot of the end of the front axle shaft, I guess the small bolt and washer is to temporarily hold things on if the snap ring comes loose, maybe i don't know. Really surprised that gold looking seal in the background was $100.00, glad it only needed two.

    Steve..........0728161051.jpg
     
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