Steering play still...with most common items replaced.

So I bought my 2005 Tundra double cab recently with 264K miles. It had a 3” level lift and the steering was garbage!
I removed the lift, replaced the tires, inner and outer tie rods, lower ball joints, and steering rack bushings. All these made a vast improvement, but there is still a dead zone of about 10 degrees when I start the truck and wiggle the wheel. Is there another component that may cause this? Maybe the linkage itself?
My goal is to have it feel factory new.

Thanks in advance for the input!

 

While engine is off and key is in and rotated to ON, you should have someone sit in the truck and you can go under the truck with the flashlight. Have your helper turn the wheel back and forth and inspect the linkage. See if there is any play in the steering shaft linkage down to the rag joint on the rack and pinion.

While I don't recommend blindly changing out the PS pump, I did notice a vast improvement in steering when I replaced the pump. Previous owner had put in an aftermarket unit and was leaking. I went and spent the $$ on a OEM Toyota unit and it actually made a big difference in the feel of the truck.

 

Sounds like what you’re needing.

 

I could be wrong, but I believe our pumps have a play adjustment screw on the pump. Be careful, through...too tight and it'll wear out the pump in short order.

Can anyone confirm? I'm not near my truck at the moment.

 

I’ve never seen an adjustment screw on a pump itself.
The pump has no bearing on play in the steering wheel.

You did remind me, though, there is a bushing on the rack, called the guide, that can account for some play in the wheel. I do believe you can tighten it to take up some slack but it should probably be replaced if it has 264k miles.

https://youtu.be/r4Hhl225E8A

 

Thanks everyone!
Scuba, I just ordered the parts for the guide replacement. There is only 1 in the country, and it’s in KY...should be in next Thursday. Fingers crossed it helps!
That being said, does the loose shaft (like Tacoma) issue not apply to our trucks? Everything I see on that shaft coupling is for Tacoma’s.

Jason

 

I'll be completely honest, I can only guess that the tundra shaft is very similar in nature to the Tacoma shaft considering they were brother trucks manufactured at the same time. The 96-02 4Runners share the same shaft.

If the new guide doesn't solve your issue I would try the steering shaft tack.

 

So since my parts to change the guide will be in this week, I decided to take the old one out and take a look. The threaded retainer and nut came out easily...but I can’t get the actual guide out of the hole. I used penetrating oil and a fairly strong magnet...even with the wife wiggling the wheel and to no avail. Any ideas on how to get this thing out?

Thanks again for all the help!

 

Not sure what I should be seeing. Sorry. The image and verbiage is just what I described...although the big wrench is a special tool? According to that, the removal should be simple!

 

So you have removed the cap and spring already? That is the guide in the picture?

 

Yes. The picture is of the cap and spring removed, and of the back side of the guide itself.
In the video posted above, the guide just comes out with a magnet...I’m not having that kind of luck, unfortunately. Was hoping someone had a trick or tip to help pull it out.

 

I wish I could offer some help but mine came out just fine when I did it.

 

Scuba, you just used a magnet like the video?

 

To be honest I can’t remember. I don’t remember having any issue getting it to come out.

 

Sooooo tonight I get to claim victory...though it wasn’t without some interesting moments.
I finally got the steering rack guide out with the help of a very strong magnet from Home Depot. The guide itself had an o-ring that was causing resistance, and the pick-up magnets I had just weren’t enough. I compared the 2 guides and they were definitely not the same. Packing the shaft full of grease, I tried to install the new guide and it was just a little too large to slide in....that’s when I found the worn out sticker on the rack! Made in China! Autozone! Uuuugh!
So begrudgingly I put the old one back in with more fresh grease and torqued as needed.
Not to be totally defeated I began to chase the loose shaft to find the slip joint that was common to the Tacoma steering rack looseness. I found the approximate area where I believe the joint was, but Toyota decided to encase the whole upper portion in aluminum structure. I found the general area where the loose joint was and drilled a hole in that sucker! Nothing drastic, and I’m sure some would frown on it...but it seems to be quite overbuilt. The hole was big enough for a small diameter screw head to pass through, and for me to make sure the placement was right. I drilled a nice pilot hole and drove a screw into the coupler...fixed! I realize the joint is designed to fail in a crash, but this screw is not adding a significant amount of strength...if any. Pictures are of the guides, rack sticker and of course the fix.
Thanks to everyone who took the time to help!

 

hey brother I know this has been a while, but I have a similar harshness/rattles feel in my 05’ double cab steering. just wondering first- if this mod using the screw in the upper encased joint/shaft has held up and maintained the steering feel improvement and decreased play that you felt when you first did this? And second, when you drilled the first approximate hole in the aluminum casing , then what did you look for inside in order to know where you should place the screw ? was it just confirming that it looked as though it was definately where two halves were sleeved together as one shaft so you were then securing that by putting the screw where one half was telescoped into the other ? If you see this and have a minute I appreciate it bud !
-Brent