Some work planned for basically the whole front suspension

Aaaaannnddd I'm back. So, felt vibrations, and happened to be going to the dealership to get the airbag recall fixed, and had them take a look. Found center U-joint bad, and might as well change the carrier bearing too. (Gonna do it myself) but also, they mentioned the left lower control arm is "Showing Signs of Cracking" I already know I have to replace the struts and shocks because they're beat to hell, and I plan on using Moog struts. Being the fact that the control arm is gonna need replacing, I have a feeling I should prepare for work on other components (Upper control Arm, Upper Ball Joint, Stabilizer Bar link ) and I was wondering, What Brands to avoid for the suspension, and what would be the best replacement? I know Moog has a solid reputation, but I'm not sure if y'all know anything better. Also, Lower ball joints are new, as well as the rack and pinion and outer tie rods.

 

I’d recco all TOY OEM Parts.

Those u-joints look like a bear to replace. I’d have a shop that specializes in them do them all at once. We have a Heavy Truck Service Center where you can take the drive shaft and have them remove/press.

You might be in for lots’o work on your LCA’s. Might as well do both. They are probably seized up cams etc. and give people fits when replacing. Not sure of your abilities so just throwing these things out there.

Post up pics!

 

I haven't heard of a cracked lower arm. Did they show you the crack? Maybe they meant cracked bushings?

Either way, if there is damage I would replace both lower arms. If your lower ball joints are new that's good, they'll stay on the spindle during the swap. You might want a new alignment cam kit, depends what condition they're in. SPC makes a decent kit for cheap, you can find then at Wheelers Off Road.

Upper arms dont go bad, upper arm bushings dont go bad often. Upper ball joint I would inspect for wear, if worn then replace.

As far as brands go, for ball joints I would go Toyota. For lower arms if you can stomach the cost go Toyota, if not then Moog is fine. Most aftermarket companies are distributing parts that were manufactured elsewhere, really a crap shoot on what you'll get.

 

When I removed all the front suspension components a couple months ago, the only way to get the LCAs out, was to cut the bushings/cams/bolts with a sawzall. I went through a bunch of blades cutting those cams and bolts. The UCAs came out with no problems.

it all went back together well lubricated with anti-seize.

 

Yep, just take the shaft to a shop. Be done with it. It’s a pain in the ass doing the work on the ground. And I’m just 2wd. 4wd shafts must be hell without proper equipment (lift), tools and know how.

 

Are you 4wd?

 

Yeah they definitely do. I'm gonna take a look Sunday and see how it is, apparently the method that has worked is unsecured the rack and pinion (FUCK that thing ) and move it out the way. I'll definitely post pics when I get to it!

 

Negative. Rwd

 

I'm 2wd as well. I was gonna use the auto hobby shop on base, they have the lifts and presses, and they said that the work can definitely be done there

 

Appreciate the heads up, in that case I won't spend excessive money on parts that aren't needed then. I just know what definitely needs to be changed is. This u joint, and my suspension (I still have the OEM Bilstein Shocks )

 

Just make sure when you tap the yoke off near the carrier bearing to mark both pieces with a punch where it comes off. There’s no master tooth on the splines. You can use an inclinometer by setting it on the top or bottom of the u joints.

 

Moog struts? Are your coil springs junk?

 

I’ve had good luck with proforge suspension parts. They are listed under the “heavy duty” section on rock auto. Check out their sway bar end links. Like @Darkness mentioned, moog lowers should be fine. Mevotech is decent quality too for LCA’s.

 

All the suspension is at this point. Like, when I checked it there really isn't much stiffness at all to it. The shake inside the cabin has definitely gotten worse since I got the truck in 17. Also this truck has been totaled twice. (2 front end collisions) and had 83,500 on it. So, I feel as if it spent a lot of time sitting around.

 

I'll definitely look into that! I like rockauto aside from their return policy

 

Here's some photos of the front coil springs and the u joint

 

Gnar gnar u-joints. Probably cracked from collisions?

 

Possibly. But yeah, they're pretty nasty. Luckily I found the right Spicer U-joint to replace it

 

Might be a straight forward job as it a single shaft. The 4WD Double Cardan job looks intense.

 

I was reading about the double cardan. Literally all I heard is how cancer it is to do it

 

Same as I’ve understood it. Reason why I recco the Heavy Shop. He knew all the parts. Even the little spring and ball inside the DC.

 

God dog it, no wonder it’s vibrating! That u joint is toast. Are there any paint markings on the coil springs? OEM springs will normally have colored markings on them, for example, yellow/yellow (driver side) and yellow/white (passenger side). If not, then yeah, just get the moog strut assembly’s. The only thing I don’t like about complete strut assembly’s.... What cab configuration were they designed for? Single, access or crew cab. I’d be tempted to install sequoia assembly’s due to the additional weight your crew cab has.

 

Yeah, it's pretty trash and the coils don't have any marking at all. And the assemblies are made for the double cab

 

UPDATE: U Joint and Carrier Bearing complete! No press needed, took about 4 hours.

 

What did you use if don’t mind me asking? Hammer? Giant C clamp? Did you only replace one u joint?

 

Yeah, only the center, hammer with a socket, pliers for the snap rings, and used a punch to tap off the center bearing. Also a LOT of WD 40 and parts cleaner.

 

I might be wrong but it looks like your carrier bearing is upside down. I thought the side with the single hole goes down? Maybe it doesn't matter.

 

That was the original orientation. I thought the same thing, but wasn't totally sure to be honest. I just figured if it's wrong, I can go back and flip it easy

 

Correct.. single hole on the bottom..

 

They look like my old Monroe "quick struts" which will forever haunt my dreams.