1. Welcome to Tundras.com!

    You are currently viewing as a guest! To get full-access, you need to register for a FREE account.

    As a registered member, you’ll be able to:
    • Participate in all Tundra discussion topics
    • Transfer over your build thread from a different forum to this one
    • Communicate privately with other Tundra owners from around the world
    • Post your own photos in our Members Gallery
    • Access all special features of the site

Shock Tuning

Discussion in 'Long Travel Suspension' started by osidepunker, Nov 18, 2019.

  1. Nov 18, 2019 at 5:56 AM
    #1
    osidepunker

    osidepunker [OP] OsidePunker

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2016
    Member:
    #4918
    Messages:
    2,998
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Alex
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    2013 Tundra DC 4x4
    Full LT, full armor, fully self contained Speed Glamper
    I will call you out on your BS if you try to post nonsense (you know who you are)

    Dont muddy this thread with asking how to rebuild/revalve a shock. Its easy and Fox has good instructions for you, but if you need help start another thread.

    Anybody have any questions about shock tuning?? I have successfully tuned my truck. Every truck will be different. I cannot write a post that will tell you which stacks you should put into your truck, but if you tell me your setup I can make recommendations. I am well versed with Fox shocks but I am looking forward to tuning @papasmurf truck and learning the differences with King shocks.

    So specifically talking about Fox shocks, you start with a baseline and adjust from there. Fox has a chart (google it) and they have "levels" of recommended shim stacks. We drive very heavy trucks. Your baseline should be near the high end of the chart. Remove your bypasses. put a stack in the coilover and drive it. Tune it for a good street ride and for small to medium bumps on dirt. Then put a very heavy stack in the bypasses, like a 4.3.2, and install them. Then start adjusting your tubes. Start with the short tube full open. On Fox, 3 turns is basically full open. Set the long tube to 1 turn and go hit some 2" whoop sections. you want to adjust the long tube until your truck settles into the whoops, not floating on top and not dipping too deep. Then get on a normal dirt trail and start closing the short tube until its rough, then back it out until its soft. Then back to the whoops and if your changes to the short tube caused it to float, open the long tube juuust a little until it settles back into the whoops.

    Do the same for the rear.

    For bumps, set your bumps to 1/6 of your corner weight as a starting point. My rear axle is 4000 lbs. half of that is 2000 lbs so my corner weight is 2000 lbs. 1/6 of 2000 = 333 so I set my bumps to 325 psi. Depending on your valving you will adjust your bumps. My final valve stacks are very aggressive so I ended up reducing the bumps to 225 psi. But every truck will be a little different. On the very biggest hits, you want your bumps to feel soft and controlled. Not too stiff and not so soft they bottom out and you feel the frame hitting.

    Coilovers will need a flutter stack. There is no way around this on our trucks unless you run a very large bypass like a 3.5 or 4.4 which you will have a very difficult time fitting. The purpose of a flutter is to make it soft on the very little bumps and bounces like on the street. A flutter starts with a 1.8 shim, called a face shim. Then a 0.800 shim, called a fulcrum. Then the regular Fox stack. You adjust the face shim thickness to make the smallest bounces go away. You adjust the thickness of the fulcrum to set the engagement of the stack where you want it to be. Typically you'll use a 0.020 fulcrum shim on the coilover. Once you feel the main stack engaging, you may want to adjust the 1.8 and 1.6 to lessen the harshness of the main stack engagement. In my case I reduced the 1.8 by 2 levels and the 1.6 by 1 level to help with the small to medium bumps. I also increased all the little shims by one level to help the high speed events like jumping and hitting ledges and big holes. This also helped with the big whoops as well.

    Fox bypass tubes can only flow so much even when wide open. You will feel the restriction when you run very heavy stacks. It will make the street ride bouncy. You can mitigate this with a small flutter on the bypasses. Go very small on the front and a little larger on the rear since the rear does not have a coilover to work with.


    Thats the basic summary. You will be going through a lot of revalves in order to learn the process and get a feel for what your truck is doing. In my case I did 6 or so revalves on the coilovers and 3 or 4 on the bypasses. The last several changes where me fine tuning the little bumps and bounces and experimenting a little. Im basically done playing with it. I might experiment a little more just to learn stuff, but it rides great. Also, keep in mind what you use the truck for. I concentrated on keeping the ride smooth because its a trail truck not a race truck. I can comfortably do 2 foot whoops and uncomfortably do 3 foot whoops. I can jump the truck 4 feet in the air and land on flat ground without worrying about major damage. But most importantly, I can run trails for hours and hours without spilling my drink
     
    Last edited: Nov 18, 2019
    chugs, eccracer104, reywcms and 14 others like this.
  2. Nov 18, 2019 at 5:57 AM
    #2
    osidepunker

    osidepunker [OP] OsidePunker

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2016
    Member:
    #4918
    Messages:
    2,998
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Alex
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    2013 Tundra DC 4x4
    Full LT, full armor, fully self contained Speed Glamper
    Rebound is MUCH more difficult to tune. Feeling what your rebound is doing is harder, it’s a very subtle feel in how the truck handles the bumps and dips. The best way to describe it is to imagine going to mall. A mall that has HUGE speed bumps. You know, the really big roller ones that soccer moms take at 1 mph. Hit that fast, like 20 mph. If you have very little rebound dampening (called fast rebound), then after the bump you will feel the chassis rise quickly. If you have too much rebound dampening (called slow rebound), your chassis will stay level over the bump, but then it will drop down quickly. For the best ride through whoops, you want faster rebound in the rear and slower rebound in the front. This will balance the chassis through the whoops. So ideally, when you hit that speed bump you would feel the front stay level across the bump, then directly after it will barely start to drop. The rear will stay level across the bump and just after will either gently rise or continue level. This is a very subtle feel. DON’T GO TO THE MALL AND TUNE YOUR SUSPENSION. I’m merely describing how rebound feels. You will be tuning your suspension on actual whoops. I cannot teach you by describing how it should handle, I can only show you in the dirt. But what I can do is help you decide if your rebound is too fast or too slow and make recommendations on different shim stacks. If your rebound is too fast on the whoops it will feel very nervous and buck and jump up all over the place. If its too slow it will feel like your suspension is made of cement and every whoops will feel super hard. If rear is too slow it will pack into the next whoop and donkey kick.


    Again, I can’t really describe proper rebound valving here. I have to show you in person. Or maybe post video of your truck and I can make recommendations. Here is a video of me in 2’ whoops. Its very dialed and controlled here, but rebound is a touch too fast:


    https://youtu.be/FRJXabbuv9s
     
    mountainpete, ColoradoTJ, Sas and 6 others like this.
  3. Nov 18, 2019 at 5:57 AM
    #3
    osidepunker

    osidepunker [OP] OsidePunker

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2016
    Member:
    #4918
    Messages:
    2,998
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Alex
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    2013 Tundra DC 4x4
    Full LT, full armor, fully self contained Speed Glamper
    I have Total Chaos LT suspension and The Truck weighs 8000 lbs. About 4000lbs in the front and 3900 in the rear. I have Fox 2.5 coilovers and bypasses in the front and 2.5 bypasses and 3” bumps in the rear. Here is my valving. Don’t go running off and put this in your truck. Every truck is different and weight and balance are the key factors in determining shim stacks. But you do that based on feel and how it handles depending on the terrain you drive on and how fast you drive it. Also, different drivers want it to handle different ways. Do you want a race truck? Do you want to go to jump champs? Or do you want a trail truck with a microwave and hot water system? Anyways, here is what I have settled on:

    Coilovers Compression
    1.800 0.010 x1
    0.800 0.020 x1
    1.800 0.010 x1
    1.600 0.015 x1
    1.425 0.020 x1
    1.350 0.020 x1
    1.100 0.020 x1
    0.950 0.020 x1
    0.800 0.008 x1
    1.800 0.015 x1
    1.570 0.128 x1
    Stack height: 0.123

    Coilovers Rebound
    1.600 0.015 x1
    1.425 0.015 x1
    1.350 0.015 x1
    1.100 0.015 x1
    0.950 0.015 x1
    0.800 0.015 x1
    0.875 0.200 x1

    Front Bypasses Compression
    1.800 0.008 x1
    0.080 0.008 x1
    1.800 0.020 x4
    1.600 0.020 x3
    1.425 0.020 x2
    1.350 0.020 x1
    1.100 0.020 x1
    0.950 0.020 x1
    0.080 0.008 x1
    1.800 0.015 x1
    1.570 0.128 x1
    Stack height: 0.176

    Front Bypasses Rebound
    1.600 0.008 x1
    1.425 0.008 x1
    1.350 0.010 x1
    1.100 0.010 x1
    0.950 0.010 x1
    0.800 0.008 x1
    0.875 0.200 x1

    Rear Bypasses Compression
    1.800 0.008 x1
    0.800 0.020 x1
    1.800 0.015 x3
    1.600 0.015 x2
    1.425 0.015 x2
    1.350 0.015 x1
    1.100 0.015 x1
    0.950 0.015 x1
    0.800 0.010 x1
    1.800 0.015 x1
    1.570 0.128 x1
    Stack height: 0.135

    Rear Bypasses Rebound
    1.600 0.012 x1
    1.425 0.012 x1
    1.350 0.015 x1
    1.100 0.015 x1
    0.950 0.015 x1
    0.800 0.012 x1
    0.875 0.200 x1
     
    ColoradoTJ, 831Tun, Civiceg94 and 4 others like this.
  4. Nov 18, 2019 at 7:00 AM
    #4
    snivilous

    snivilous snivspeedshop.com

    Joined:
    Apr 16, 2019
    Member:
    #29192
    Messages:
    3,628
    SW UT
    Vehicle:
    295k Supercharged 2008
    Sweet thread and good info! Hopefully more people who actually tune their trucks chime in. I don't wheel my tundra but am building a buggy, shock tuning is always this black magic that's really hard to find information and experience about, let alone people to bounce ideas off of and willing to talk about.
     
    Sunnier and osidepunker[OP] like this.
  5. Nov 18, 2019 at 7:04 AM
    #5
    osidepunker

    osidepunker [OP] OsidePunker

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2016
    Member:
    #4918
    Messages:
    2,998
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Alex
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    2013 Tundra DC 4x4
    Full LT, full armor, fully self contained Speed Glamper
    Its only black magic because no one wants to spend the time to make changes and see what happens. My mind was blown the first time I made a change. Then blown again the second time. By the third time I knew what change to make to get the desired result. The rest of it was just getting closer and closer to where I wanted it
     
    831Tun and rockmup like this.
  6. Nov 18, 2019 at 7:06 AM
    #6
    osidepunker

    osidepunker [OP] OsidePunker

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2016
    Member:
    #4918
    Messages:
    2,998
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Alex
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    2013 Tundra DC 4x4
    Full LT, full armor, fully self contained Speed Glamper
    Also, that was just a summary of general theory. I got super deep into this. Changed pistons from high flow to low flow, considered my bleed holes, total stack height, rate plates, tube flow, etc etc There is a lot to it and there a reason people hire shock tuners, but that doesnt mean you cant figure it out on your own.
     
    831Tun likes this.
  7. Nov 18, 2019 at 7:10 AM
    #7
    5.7TRDProm

    5.7TRDProm What's bothering you?

    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2018
    Member:
    #15847
    Messages:
    564
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dara
    Vehicle:
    2018 Cement Tundra SR5
    All stock-ish. Powdercoated blue suspension.

    This video.... I can keep watching all day long!:cheers:
     
  8. Nov 18, 2019 at 7:21 AM
    #8
    roypark

    roypark Semi-pro High Fiver

    Joined:
    May 19, 2017
    Member:
    #7766
    Messages:
    381
    First Name:
    Roy
    Orange County
    Vehicle:
    2016 Tundra
    A little of this and a little of that. Its pretty run of the mill.
    @KevinK is probably typing right now.
     
    Sunnier likes this.
  9. Nov 18, 2019 at 7:26 AM
    #9
    osidepunker

    osidepunker [OP] OsidePunker

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2016
    Member:
    #4918
    Messages:
    2,998
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Alex
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    2013 Tundra DC 4x4
    Full LT, full armor, fully self contained Speed Glamper
    i sure do hope so
     
  10. Nov 18, 2019 at 7:28 AM
    #10
    osidepunker

    osidepunker [OP] OsidePunker

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2016
    Member:
    #4918
    Messages:
    2,998
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Alex
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    2013 Tundra DC 4x4
    Full LT, full armor, fully self contained Speed Glamper
    @Bo-Hunter I'll tune your truck when you get it out here
     
    831Tun and Bo-Hunter like this.
  11. Nov 19, 2019 at 6:17 AM
    #11
    KevinK

    KevinK SGU - High Speed Overlander

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2016
    Member:
    #5141
    Messages:
    1,949
    Gender:
    Male
    Back in Arizona. Again.
    Vehicle:
    SGU - Speed Glampers Uberfahrt
    Tundras to Sedona
  12. Nov 19, 2019 at 6:26 AM
    #12
    osidepunker

    osidepunker [OP] OsidePunker

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2016
    Member:
    #4918
    Messages:
    2,998
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Alex
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    2013 Tundra DC 4x4
    Full LT, full armor, fully self contained Speed Glamper
    joonbug and 5.7TRDProm[QUOTED] like this.
  13. Nov 19, 2019 at 6:32 AM
    #13
    5.7TRDProm

    5.7TRDProm What's bothering you?

    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2018
    Member:
    #15847
    Messages:
    564
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dara
    Vehicle:
    2018 Cement Tundra SR5
    All stock-ish. Powdercoated blue suspension.

    I remember watching that last video when you posted it on here awhile back. That's how chitty my rear feel and with it bucking everywhere... but what do I know I dont even know shim numbers or even have tools to disassemble and home tune my stuff. I had accutune do the valving and tuning, but it doesn't feel that much of a difference maybe it's because of that damn u748 pack with a nearly empty bed. Or maybe it's because all that shop does is work on primarily jeeps. Or maybe because after spending this much coins on this wasted MT setup, I am finally going to waste more and strip everything out and go LT now lol :cookiemonster:
     
  14. Nov 19, 2019 at 6:41 AM
    #14
    osidepunker

    osidepunker [OP] OsidePunker

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2016
    Member:
    #4918
    Messages:
    2,998
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Alex
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    2013 Tundra DC 4x4
    Full LT, full armor, fully self contained Speed Glamper
    haha LT is a game changer for sure...

    I used a couple different shops for tuning, DC Shocks and DMZ.

    But the problem I ran into was I didnt understand what they were doing and they didnt understand how I was driving. the person driving needs to be the person tuning. Or at least be watching to see what the truck is doing. Thats how race teams do it, driver drives, tuner watches then makes adjustments. It doesnt work well when you send in your shocks and have someone put in a stack

    btw, disassembling shocks isnt difficult and you dont need expensive tools. Its a little messy, but I can revalve a shock in 30 min if I'm in a hurry
     
    831Tun, Sunnier, Pinay and 2 others like this.
  15. Nov 19, 2019 at 6:45 AM
    #15
    5.7TRDProm

    5.7TRDProm What's bothering you?

    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2018
    Member:
    #15847
    Messages:
    564
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dara
    Vehicle:
    2018 Cement Tundra SR5
    All stock-ish. Powdercoated blue suspension.
    Ya that's definitely true. All a shop person that stays in house can only do a baseline valving and "imagine" how you and the truck drive, but not psychically be there to actually see it. I've been looking at downsouth or maybe even KDM, but I am eager to do the work and mess around with it in my backyard as well. At least I know my own downtime and set back instead of having to call a shop wondering why they haven't met their expected turnaround time all the time.
     
  16. Nov 19, 2019 at 6:54 AM
    #16
    Hbjeff

    Hbjeff New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2019
    Member:
    #24845
    Messages:
    4,897
    Gender:
    Male
    Huntington Beach
    Vehicle:
    2010 DC 5.7 2wd
    Trd sways, bullydog, magnaflow, sumo springs
    Stupid tuning question. If doing it yourself, can the fluid be re used if it was poured into a clean container? Since it may be broken into multiple times?
     
  17. Nov 19, 2019 at 6:57 AM
    #17
    osidepunker

    osidepunker [OP] OsidePunker

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2016
    Member:
    #4918
    Messages:
    2,998
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Alex
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    2013 Tundra DC 4x4
    Full LT, full armor, fully self contained Speed Glamper
    I'll give you an example. I put a flutter in the coilover. I started with a 1.8x 0.015 face shim. It felt great in the dirt, small bumps were smooth. I thought it was great. Then I went on a 3 day trip. I had to do 2 hr on the roads to get there. On the way there I noticed it was bouncy on the freeway. At first I ignored it because its a truck and it got bouncy a long time ago when I installed 800 lbs coilovers. I figured I just had to deal with it. but during the drive I couldnt stop thinking about it.

    When I got home I decided to experiment. I changed the face shim from a 15 to a 12 (thinner). the bounce was reduced by almost half. Then I reduced the face shim again to a 10 and I reduced the first shim of the main stack from a 15 to a 10 as well. I was FLOORED. the road all of a sudden became SUPER smooth. I had no idea that the bounce was being cause by one or two shims being just 0.005 too thick. It was a revelation.

    I promise you accutune or downsouth or DC or KDM will not be able to pick up on something like that unless you visit them (pay them) several times. Maybe 4 or 5 times. Well, at least that was my experience when I used DC three times and DMZ once
     
    Pinay and 5.7TRDProm[QUOTED] like this.
  18. Nov 19, 2019 at 6:59 AM
    #18
    5.7TRDProm

    5.7TRDProm What's bothering you?

    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2018
    Member:
    #15847
    Messages:
    564
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dara
    Vehicle:
    2018 Cement Tundra SR5
    All stock-ish. Powdercoated blue suspension.
    Yep. Given the fluid is still clean and clear and low mileage usage on them.
     
    osidepunker[OP] likes this.
  19. Nov 19, 2019 at 7:01 AM
    #19
    osidepunker

    osidepunker [OP] OsidePunker

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2016
    Member:
    #4918
    Messages:
    2,998
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Alex
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    2013 Tundra DC 4x4
    Full LT, full armor, fully self contained Speed Glamper
    Yes you should absolutely reuse the fluid. Its not cheap LOL

    For a simple revalve, I dont drain the shock. I just pull the shaft, make the shim change, and reinstall. You'll lose a small amount of fluid, just refill to where it needs to be.

    If you need to change all the o rings, you may as well change the fluid

    If the fluid comes out milky or burnt, change it
     
    Pinay likes this.
  20. Nov 19, 2019 at 7:03 AM
    #20
    5.7TRDProm

    5.7TRDProm What's bothering you?

    Joined:
    Jun 3, 2018
    Member:
    #15847
    Messages:
    564
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Dara
    Vehicle:
    2018 Cement Tundra SR5
    All stock-ish. Powdercoated blue suspension.

    You sir are the man of this forum. I only come in here to read and pick info from you SGU guys and maybe whatever deals are post up to buy, but the knowledge and info from you and the other SGU's are why I mainly come in this forum. It's almost like top secret info, but kind of not haha more like top secret helpful info
     
  21. Nov 19, 2019 at 7:04 AM
    #21
    Hbjeff

    Hbjeff New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2019
    Member:
    #24845
    Messages:
    4,897
    Gender:
    Male
    Huntington Beach
    Vehicle:
    2010 DC 5.7 2wd
    Trd sways, bullydog, magnaflow, sumo springs
    Thanks!
     
  22. Nov 19, 2019 at 7:08 AM
    #22
    osidepunker

    osidepunker [OP] OsidePunker

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2016
    Member:
    #4918
    Messages:
    2,998
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Alex
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    2013 Tundra DC 4x4
    Full LT, full armor, fully self contained Speed Glamper
    Thanks man I appreciate that! Im always willing to talk trucks and help each other get smarter together as a group.

    Absolutely man! Let me know if you need help with those shocks.
     
    porkitt and Pinay like this.
  23. Nov 19, 2019 at 7:24 AM
    #23
    Hbjeff

    Hbjeff New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2019
    Member:
    #24845
    Messages:
    4,897
    Gender:
    Male
    Huntington Beach
    Vehicle:
    2010 DC 5.7 2wd
    Trd sways, bullydog, magnaflow, sumo springs
    [QUOTE="osidepunker, post: 1490693, member: 4918”]



    Absolutely man! Let me know if you need help with those shocks.[/QUOTE]

    I have icons with 70k miles i need to service. Gonna need to find some shim stack info for them
     
  24. Nov 19, 2019 at 7:30 AM
    #24
    osidepunker

    osidepunker [OP] OsidePunker

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2016
    Member:
    #4918
    Messages:
    2,998
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Alex
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    2013 Tundra DC 4x4
    Full LT, full armor, fully self contained Speed Glamper
    I have icons with 70k miles i need to service. Gonna need to find some shim stack info for them[/QUOTE]
    ooo I dont know anything about icons haha I heard you need a special tool to take them apart and the valving is digressive (everyone else is progressive) so that makes the stacks behave differently. But post in here what you are trying to do with them and maybe we can work it out together
     
  25. Nov 19, 2019 at 7:43 AM
    #25
    Hbjeff

    Hbjeff New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2019
    Member:
    #24845
    Messages:
    4,897
    Gender:
    Male
    Huntington Beach
    Vehicle:
    2010 DC 5.7 2wd
    Trd sways, bullydog, magnaflow, sumo springs
    I just want to soften up the little road bumps. I wish i had known the difference between progressive and digressive before purchasing but that was ten years ago.

    I spoke with DC shocks and he said it was definitely possible to soften the little stuff slightly while maintaining big hit dampening. I get that it will never be perfect but even a 10% improvement is worth it
     
  26. Nov 19, 2019 at 8:05 AM
    #26
    osidepunker

    osidepunker [OP] OsidePunker

    Joined:
    Oct 19, 2016
    Member:
    #4918
    Messages:
    2,998
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Alex
    SoCal
    Vehicle:
    2013 Tundra DC 4x4
    Full LT, full armor, fully self contained Speed Glamper
    Well you can try DC if you want, but I didnt have good luck with him. He made it better than it was, but no where near as good as I have it now

    I also had to take a half day off work to meet him only to have him not show up after I drove 2 hrs to get there...
     
  27. Nov 19, 2019 at 8:37 AM
    #27
    Hbjeff

    Hbjeff New Member

    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2019
    Member:
    #24845
    Messages:
    4,897
    Gender:
    Male
    Huntington Beach
    Vehicle:
    2010 DC 5.7 2wd
    Trd sways, bullydog, magnaflow, sumo springs

    I hear ya. I gotta inquire as to the cost of the icon tool :/
     
  28. Nov 19, 2019 at 8:38 AM
    #28
    GravityGear

    GravityGear Parking Lot Prerunner

    Joined:
    Sep 9, 2018
    Member:
    #19180
    Messages:
    1,960
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Matt
    Aurora, CO
    Vehicle:
    2014 Black DC TSS Off Road 4x4 5.7
    Transfer Flow tank, Pinstripe Suit
    TRD15559 likes this.
  29. Nov 19, 2019 at 8:46 AM
    #29
    TruckyTruck

    TruckyTruck Dumbest Username

    Joined:
    Jan 6, 2014
    Member:
    #20
    Messages:
    3,613
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Gary
    Texas
    I've got Elka suspension with DC adjusters. 700 pound coil springs and Alcan rear springs that handle 500 pounds over stock. I guess I need to get my truck off road to really dial it in. At first I kept turning everything softer because it seemed so bouncy. But started realizing I needed to do the opposite. I do get off-road sometimes, but not a lot. I mainly bought these for the towing I do. I'm a complete novice, but I did manage to get everything installed myself. So I guess there's that.
     
    831Tun likes this.
  30. Nov 19, 2019 at 8:58 AM
    #30
    Bo-Hunter

    Bo-Hunter I like fast

    Joined:
    Apr 28, 2018
    Member:
    #14855
    Messages:
    502
    Gender:
    Male
    First Name:
    Greg
    NOVA
    Vehicle:
    2009 RW 4x4 Truck
    Long Travel, DC Shortbed
    I'm counting on it !!! Really enjoy this thread, thank you
     
To Top