Replacing starter on 2002 4.7. What else while in there?

On my 2002 4.7L Tundra I am starting to have intermittent "grinding" as I turn the key to start the truck. It starts, then grinds for a 1/2 second, and then runs great. The motor is very strong in spite of 240,000 miles.

I know the starter is buried deep in the motor (a weird design decision) and the motor must be removed or the entire top of it removed to access the starter to replace.

So, first question, is this the starter issue? Maybe it's hitting some damaged flywheel teeth? It's intermittent and sometimes does not make the noise.

Secondly, with the labor involved, at 240k miles, is this a good host to just pull and replace the entire ENGINE with a low mileage or rebuilt one? I'm reluctant, since we're probably taking about several thousands of dollars to replace a motor that is very strong and probably at 1/2 of it's useful life.

Third, I'm leaning on just pulling off the top of the motor and replacing the starter with OEM new. While I'm there (or more to the point, my mechanic), what else should I have done? Seals, gaskets, wear parts, belts, hoses, etc.?

Thanks.

Edited for clarification.

 

My guess is that the contacts in your solenoid are toast. You're on the right track ~ replace the starter with the best unit you can find so you don't have to go back in there again any time soon.
On our aging Lexus I was able to salvage the starter by just replacing the contacts. It's easy to R&R a starter on the Lexus V-6 ~ a V-8 1Gen Tundra, not so much.

 

You don't need to pull or lift the entire motor. You just have to remove the intake manifold. I think most recommend replacing that rubber manifold gasket.

@bmf4069 has done this job and has some pictures he might be able to share.

 

Is the Solenoid tucked down in the starter, or maybe elsewhere easy to reach?

 

The solenoid on my Lexus (and I assume it's the same on a Tundra) is attached to the starter itself if memory serves.
It was quite simple to merely change the contacts and put the unit back in service on the Lexus. A Tundra, not so much.

 

Gents,
The OP is not asking if he should replace the starter motor, he's asking if he should just replace the entire engine!

 

Bring lunch , dinner and maby breakfast because it gonna take that long. I did mine and it took all day and then some. I didn’t cut any corners. I did thing correct that’s why it took so long. Get a factory made sensor product to you won’t have to do all over again when a cheap one goes out soon afterward good luck

 

Parts needed:

1) New Manifold Gaskets.

2) New Denso 2.0kw Starter which is the Heavy Duty Cold Package Starter. If yours is the 1.4kw starter then the HD 2.0kw starter will still work nicely as an upgrade. Its less$ money, as well. Win win with better starts!

3) Maybe replace the 2 knock sensors which are right next to the starter. Huge $$$ at about $170 each.


*** Do not skimp on aftermarket parts! Toyota Knock Sensors and Denso Starter 2.0kw ONLY!!!
Trust me as others have learned the hard way and paid twice.

 

Precisely the sound advice I am looking for! Thanks. Much appreciated.

 

do not replace motor, remove the intake manifold and replace the starter, make sure to go with oem intake manifold gasket, I repeat go with oem intake manifold gasket, I bought cheap ones and since they there aftermarket they didn't have no label or anything on how to place them in correctly and unfortunately I installed them incorrectly and had to replace it a year since the truck started having idling problems and eventually wouldn't start so make sure to get oem, they will have a marking to show how it properly goes in as well buy the Hanes manually book it will also show you how.

 

Op, tape off all the intake ports when you have removed the intake while you are working on replacing the starter. Helps make sure you don't get a nasty surprise because something fell in the ports and you didn't see it.

 

Greetings ToyotaJim! Thank you for sharing. I would choose option #3. It would be safe to assume it is time to replace or rebuild the starter considering the mileage. Based on what you are describing it is unlikely that you damaged teeth on the flywheel and if that were the case you should be able to replicate the grinding sound as the flywheel makes a full rotation. We recently replaced ours which had 224k miles as preventative maintenance with a Denso (

$146 280-0319 Denso First Time Fit® Starter Motor - 280-0319

280-0319) branded unit. I recommend watching and rewatching several videos online which can easily be found by searching “tundra 4.7 2uz-fe starter replacement removal” to familiarize yourself as they also offer helpful tips and tricks. If you decide to do it yourself consider it takes several hours so make sure to prepare yourself before diving in. I find it extremely rewarding to do it yourself. There should be no need to replace or rebuild the engine with only 240k as long as it has been adequately maintained and is running strong as you mentioned. These 2uz-fe engines are extremely durable and reliable even when neglected. I did not replace the manifold seals when I replaced the starter as I forgot to purchase new ahead but obviously recommend doing so for peace of mind. I wouldn't worry about anything less underneath the manifold. A single OEM knock sensor (89615-20090) costs more than the starter and there are (2) of them so would suggest forgoing replacing them when there is no need especially at that $$$ per sensor. Removing the manifold isn’t the most difficult job if you ever find it needs to be removed for any reason. The only aspect that makes the starter replacement difficult is getting to just (1) or (2) of the bolts/fasteners securing the starter motor for which online videos will provide all the helpful tips and tricks. Lastly, consider replacing or rebuilding the alternator given the mileage if it still has the original. If you do I would recommend a Denso (210-1065). Either way please be sure to keep us posted whichever direction you decide to go!

 

Read this review from @Black '00 Tundra and see what he did. You’ll be stoked.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/intermittent-ignition-problem.76405/#post-2013533

 

Ok... I'm stumped. I search and could not find an answer, but what the heck is that blower doing in the Valley???

 

Isn't that part of the SAIS?

 

It is.. I just watched a short video on bypassing the SAIS system. That blower is part of it.. 2005 and newer..

Thanks for the info Art..

 

I might be alone on this but while the intake manifold is off, you are halfway to installing a supercharger.

 

Some advice I give to anyone replacing a starter or alternator is to have the store check it when you buy it. I've seen several new and rebuilt units that were bad right out of the box. I asked for a check on an alternator that I was going to put in my Mom's pickup and the guy at the counter started arguing that it was OK since it was rebuilt and tested at the factory. I insisted and he grudgingly tested it. It was bad. He changed his tune fairly quickly after that. A quick test at the parts house can ensure that you won't get the first one off the line on Monday morning when the rebuilder is still hung over, or the last one off the line on Friday as the whistle blows.

 

I have not yet needed a starter replacement, 170k miles, and hopefully wont for quite a while. But I remember the attached discussion that one of the starter bolts is a blind bolt and very challenging to remove.

https://www.tundras.com/threads/2000-tundra-4x4-starter-bolts.42087/

 

I just finished this project, it is do-able but not fun. I replaced the contacts and it works great now. Be careful of the fuel line on the drivers side. I ended up with a leak and had to replace the line with the banjo bolt, then since it was rusted to the next section I had to replace all the way back to the filter. It was a race against the temperature drop here but all good. I remembered all the right swear words to get it done.
Mine is 2000 so no other stuff in the valley. Couple sensors.

 

Might as well add a supercharger since the intake manifold has to come off...

 

This is the way.

 

How’d it turn out?

 

Thanks for asking. This is bizarre, in a good way. I *thought* I had a starter issue weeks ago. I parked it, not wanting to damage it, until I can get it into the shop which will be in January. I have too many other things going on now. Anyway, it sat for weeks, and the battery died. I needed to change the oil, so I charged it and changed the oil. I started it probably 10 times in a 2 day period. Weather was frigid cold. Never had a hint of a starter problem.

I have no idea or explanation...

I wonder if it's possible that there is a weak connection but the cold moisture in the air has improved that electrical connection??

Or maybe I have a self-healing Tundra like the John Carpenter movie car, Christine??

 

I vote self healing. Has to be.

 

It's around freezing temps tonight. Started and drove just fine to the dog park. Started and drove just fine back. This truck has nearly a quarter million miles on it, and aside from some creaks and groans here and there, and some minor paint fading, it runs strong, shifts strong, and would be a challenge for a blind folded person to differentiate it from when it rolled off the assembly line ... I'm so thrill with it.

 

how cold was it when your starter made the noise. toyota starters are known to stick once its really cold out. (all of my toyotas start sticking around 20 degrees or less)

 

Early December, so not particularly cold. Maybe 50-60 degrees.

 

eh. just monitor it. sticking plungers do happen.

 

Interesting. I am trying to think of when I drove it PRIOR to December. I would guess, several weeks. Maybe it was just "stuck" from being idle?