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Rad support cracks

Discussion in 'General Tundra Discussion' started by 2ndgenny, May 15, 2018.

  1. May 15, 2018 at 8:50 PM
    #1
    2ndgenny

    2ndgenny [OP] Slowest build ever.

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    Arb bumper/2” rigid led fogs. Pocket fender flares. Debadged. Smoked tailights/3rdbrake. Magnaflow catback.
    Anyone ever have the upper part of the rad support crack? Mines 2008 for info. This is the piece that also conveniently holds the hood latch... The aux rad in front the main rad is also mounted to this. The amount of shake my hood gets is gross. I kept thinking my hood was open. I thought it was a Tundra thing until I investigated haha. Looks like I’ll be busting the old welder out this weekend for some repair beads.

    AC67B11C-D25C-4EBB-B1B0-1B8A3D58390B.jpg
    DF088F30-D1C1-4A66-9987-BD43F9CE8050.jpg
     
  2. May 16, 2018 at 8:14 AM
    #2
    040Tundra

    040Tundra PATRIOT!

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    That sucks!!! Big time!! Good luck on fixing it when you do.....keep us posted on how it goes.
     
    2ndgenny [OP] likes this.
  3. May 16, 2018 at 8:46 AM
    #3
    n2deep

    n2deep Overlander - Speed Glamper

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    Yupp @osidepunker and I have been dealing with those for some time. His is worse than mine but it has caused the radiator to rub a hole and leak. Waiting on new radiator now. Have to redo the mount for the cooler and fix a couple other cracks in the same area.
     
    dcsleeper408 and 2ndgenny [OP] like this.
  4. May 16, 2018 at 8:58 AM
    #4
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Tundra fanboy/lover....dryhumper...

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    That’s cause you guys use your trucks to the max LOL. Flexing! :muscleflexing: You need strut tower braces like the ricers use. Full tube chassis!
     
  5. May 16, 2018 at 9:00 AM
    #5
    osidepunker

    osidepunker OsidePunker

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    Mine is cracked in the same place on both sides. Also, one of the upper radiator screws pulled all the way through the sheet metal. But in my case this all happened because my vertical support under the hood latch broke.

    The entire radiator support piece from headlight to headlight is $138 but requires cutting and welding to install. Local body shop want $500 labor.

    I'm going to weld and patch the cracks and fabricate a new vertical support
     
  6. May 16, 2018 at 2:07 PM
    #6
    2ndgenny

    2ndgenny [OP] Slowest build ever.

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    Arb bumper/2” rigid led fogs. Pocket fender flares. Debadged. Smoked tailights/3rdbrake. Magnaflow catback.
    Jeeze. Well there ya go. I guess it’s common enough. Looks easy enough to weld up the cracks. Yes I will update on how my repairs go. Whether they come back or stay away is another question...
     
  7. May 16, 2018 at 2:29 PM
    #7
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Tundra fanboy/lover....dryhumper...

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    I would think you would want to drill a hole at the end of the crack and then weld it up. But I’m no welder.
     
    2ndgenny [OP] likes this.
  8. May 16, 2018 at 2:45 PM
    #8
    Professional Hand Model

    Professional Hand Model New Member

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    Run some self tapping screws with rubber washers strategically on either side of those cracks and call it a day!
     
    2ndgenny [OP] likes this.
  9. May 16, 2018 at 3:16 PM
    #9
    ZPMAN

    ZPMAN New Member

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    If you want it to last, take the unit out and clean up all surfaces and mig weld it or take it to a body shop with a 12 pack and they will mig it. If you are a very talented welder then give it a try with the red bomb box. Just my 3%
     
    2ndgenny [OP] likes this.
  10. May 16, 2018 at 3:49 PM
    #10
    n2deep

    n2deep Overlander - Speed Glamper

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    I am dealing with a handful of cracks on my truck. Front Spindle gussets are cracked, Rear bed in multiple spots, rear fenders, front radiator support and Radiator and those are just the ones I have found. Will be redoing the rear soon adding some bracing and gussets to address those. The rest will be easy fixes with the MIG
     
    ZPMAN, dcsleeper408 and 2ndgenny [OP] like this.
  11. May 16, 2018 at 7:17 PM
    #11
    2ndgenny

    2ndgenny [OP] Slowest build ever.

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    Arb bumper/2” rigid led fogs. Pocket fender flares. Debadged. Smoked tailights/3rdbrake. Magnaflow catback.
    Gross! That’s a lot. I was thinking of building some box brackets like the aftermarket ones I see. I’m curious what a front spindle gusset is..? It doesn’t sound good to be cracked haha
     
  12. May 16, 2018 at 7:17 PM
    #12
    2ndgenny

    2ndgenny [OP] Slowest build ever.

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    Arb bumper/2” rigid led fogs. Pocket fender flares. Debadged. Smoked tailights/3rdbrake. Magnaflow catback.
    That was my thoughts too! Good call!
     
    15whtrd likes this.
  13. May 16, 2018 at 7:19 PM
    #13
    2ndgenny

    2ndgenny [OP] Slowest build ever.

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    Arb bumper/2” rigid led fogs. Pocket fender flares. Debadged. Smoked tailights/3rdbrake. Magnaflow catback.
    I’m not super talented at anything haha. I’m ok at a lot of stuff haha. I’ll try welding it up first since above almost everything else I’m cheap! :anonymous:
     
    ZPMAN likes this.
  14. May 16, 2018 at 7:58 PM
    #14
    2ndgenny

    2ndgenny [OP] Slowest build ever.

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    Arb bumper/2” rigid led fogs. Pocket fender flares. Debadged. Smoked tailights/3rdbrake. Magnaflow catback.
    No welds yet- but hole drilled! One step at a time here. Don’t want to over do it.

    D32566E6-C6DA-4C71-B2B8-098FA552652B.jpg
     
    15whtrd likes this.
  15. May 16, 2018 at 8:04 PM
    #15
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Tundra fanboy/lover....dryhumper...

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    At least the crack will have less of a tendency to spread. One step at a time. Gotta start somewhere!
     
  16. May 20, 2018 at 8:09 AM
    #16
    osidepunker

    osidepunker OsidePunker

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    I got my cracks fixed over the weekend The sheet metal is paper thin and we had a hard time. Kept blowing holes through the metal. Best technique we found was to lay a rod in the crack and weld the rod to the sheet metal. Use a copper backing plate. After we got the cracks welded we rivited a 16 guage plate over the entire area to reinforce it. Then we made some vertical supports and tried to spread the load a little. The hood latch is super solid now and I'm confident that everything will hold up.

    20180520_074703.jpg 20180520_074736.jpg 20180520_074748.jpg
     
    2ndgenny [OP], equin and 15whtrd like this.
  17. May 20, 2018 at 8:14 AM
    #17
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Tundra fanboy/lover....dryhumper...

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    Now to go out and Dukes of Hazzard that thing! See how she holds up LOL JK
     
    osidepunker likes this.
  18. May 20, 2018 at 8:15 AM
    #18
    osidepunker

    osidepunker OsidePunker

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    That's the ultimate system test isn't it?? LOL
     
    15whtrd likes this.
  19. May 20, 2018 at 8:16 AM
    #19
    15whtrd

    15whtrd Tundra fanboy/lover....dryhumper...

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    osidepunker and equin like this.
  20. May 20, 2018 at 2:48 PM
    #20
    2ndgenny

    2ndgenny [OP] Slowest build ever.

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    Wow thanks for your input. You gave me a new idea. I wonder how some kid of stir would work? Line it up and bolt it in? Have some predrilled holes in it to fill with weld? Easier or harder?
     
  21. May 20, 2018 at 2:57 PM
    #21
    osidepunker

    osidepunker OsidePunker

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    Lol repeat that Your autocorrect is confusing me about what you're asking
     
  22. May 20, 2018 at 3:02 PM
    #22
    2ndgenny

    2ndgenny [OP] Slowest build ever.

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    Arb bumper/2” rigid led fogs. Pocket fender flares. Debadged. Smoked tailights/3rdbrake. Magnaflow catback.
    Oh shit haha. Use a piece of strut. ‘...some kind of strut would work?’ :oops:
     
  23. May 20, 2018 at 5:12 PM
    #23
    rons23

    rons23 Get The Led Out!!!

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    Not with that red buzz box:eek:
     
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  24. May 20, 2018 at 7:19 PM
    #24
    ZPMAN

    ZPMAN New Member

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    Anyone needing sheet metal parts for there trucks check out Cirtifit, they are very reasonable with the prices and they will send you a free catalog.
    Screenshot_20180520-211243.jpg
    Screenshot_20180520-211046.jpg
     
    2ndgenny [OP] likes this.
  25. May 21, 2018 at 4:45 AM
    #25
    osidepunker

    osidepunker OsidePunker

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    The oem radiator cross member is only $138 from toyota. But labor quote from my local body shop was $500. Plus, I had to redo my vertical support anyway. So I gave it go. I figured if I dorked it up I could always just replace it. I think this will work and I'm only out $15 in metal and a bottle of rum for my assistant.
     
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  26. May 21, 2018 at 4:51 AM
    #26
    osidepunker

    osidepunker OsidePunker

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    We probably didn't really know what we were doing, but that sheet metal is so damn thin. Very difficult to weld. But the welds aren't really needed I think. The sheet metal patch is enough. After it was welded it was still flexible. Once we added the patch, everything was nice and stiff. After the vertical support was done, it was even more stiff.

    If this doesn't hold up, I'm going to cut the entire piece out from head light to head light and build a whole new cross member out of tube. But I think this is going to be durable.
     
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  27. May 21, 2018 at 8:00 AM
    #27
    ZPMAN

    ZPMAN New Member

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    Looks like you did a great job, changing out the support is not to hard. A few years a i did a make over on my 89 sr5 pickup , two doors, two fenders, grill, lower valence panel, and a tailgate was $400 from Cirtifit.
     
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